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You mention three different diagnosis here. The A/C compressor locked up. Rare but I suppose it could happen. Remove freon, swap compressor, vac system, and refill. No start condition you need to troubleshoot. No start could mean cranking but not starting or no cranking. Need more information to...

If the Explorer is "too fast" then you have a training issue with the driver. Its 300 hp in a 5k vehicle. The driver's aren't exactly going to be hotrodding around town doing 4wd burnouts. LOL. It sounds like you need to coach your drivers on speeding and adherence to state and local traffic...

Pull it out with some vice grips and get a new one from the dealer. Part # W710522-S300. Also will need new crank gear.

It is a M10 standard thread flange nut. Part # W714265-S441

The PIU only has one connector. That is normal. You can wire a 4 pin trailer off that connector. For a 7 pin you need to run your own power wire and trailer brake controller wire. For 4 pin plug and play buy a Curtis C56306. You will need to remove the end plug off the connector in the passenger...

You have the transmission on the bench. It has over 150k miles. I would be rebuilding it if I were you. You did the hard part removing it. The clutches are worn, probably a fair amount of clutch material in the filter, the bores in the valve body are probably worn, etc. If you are super cheap...

I swapped the second seat of my 14 PIU with the 60/40 bench seat from a 14 XLT. It bolted in and seat belts worked fine. The only thing I had to do was buy seat belts for the 3rd row since the PIU doesn't come with them. Sounds like you need to swap one end or the other to get it to work.

Usually the PTUs fail due to insufficient lubrication and the bearings inside fail. Specifically the bearing that mounts in the case which takes out the case and makes it impossible to rebuild. Find a way to regularly change the fluid or it will fail.

I did not remove or touch the oil pan bolts. The front cover bolts to the front of the oil pan cover and block. There is room down there to change the oil pump without removing the oil pan.

Also check the block, front cover, and valve cover transition point. You put RTV where the three come together on each side and it can be a leak point. I didn't drop the pan on my 14. I also did the oil pump while I was in there. If I am investing all the labor I am going to replace everything I...

Each manifold is held on by 8 studs and nuts. There are no unused mounts that could be used to mount the manifold. Stick a nut on the stud. Zap it in the center with the welder. Use a torch to heat the metal around the stud, and work it off. I remove the passenger side stub axle assembly which...

I recently changed both front and rear exhaust manifolds on my 14 PIU 3.5TT. What an absolute pain. Every bolt was rusted and took a 3 ft breaker bar to bust loose. Then every bolt was tight getting out all the way to the end. You know how you can normally break a bolt loose then twist it out by...

The 3.5 TT in the Sport and PIU (rare option) have the same exhaust manifolds. When I was upgrading my turbos I found both the front and rear manifolds had multiple cracks in them. I could only find Dorman brand or factory replacements. I don't care for Dorman so I went with factory.

If you are going to do the front cover and you are over 100k you would be foolish not to do timing chains, tensioners, phasers, vvt solenoids, water pump, maybe oil pump, etc. Throw new spark plugs in while you have everything apart. Also consider new belt and belt tensioner since those come...

That only took 10 years for Ford to finally do something about it. Oddly enough I bought the cheap ones on Amazon 5 years ago and haven't had any issues with them. Go figure!

Any steel or aluminized steel is only going to last a couple years before it rusts out. Maybe 3-5 years with the corrosive road salt/liquid in the winter. I would install a stainless steel section of pipe so it won't rust out again.

First you need to figure out is the noise coming from the PTU or the transmission. Chain rattle sounds more like a PTU issue. PTUs usually fail due to lubrication issue. The gear oil gets hot, cokes up, and is never changed. Bearings overheat and fail. Also take out the case where the bearing...

Are you saying the rear end is swaying or sliding? This is two different things. Swaying would mean there is a broken/defective suspension component or the vehicle is out of alignment. Sliding would indicate poor tread tires, icy road conditions, too much application of throttle, or a brake...

I pulled the sensor and wiring out of an Explorer in the junkyard. One wire goes to ground and the other wire goes to the BCM. You need to pull up a wiring diagram for your year to verify. If you search around on here there are some posts about how to do it...

On the inside of the wiper arm there is a rectangle opening. Inside that opening there is a pin running crosswise. The wiper blade U shaped opening snaps onto that pin. It takes a fair amount of force to get the wiper blade to snap on and off that pin. The only thing I see on your wiper blade...

How old are the spark plugs and oxygen sensors? Start there.

Any 11" standard wiper blade works. You just pop the old one out, use an adapter that comes in the package, and snap it back in. Sometimes they are in there pretty good and you have to use a screwdriver to get them out. It just snaps in and out. To use the wiper in the picture you need to remove...

I replaced my sway bar end links a while back. After a couple months I started getting a clunk sound going over speed bumps, potholes, sharp turns at inlines, etc. Every time I put the car on jackstands I could not duplicate the noise. Everything appeared tight. Finally I put the car on ramps...

For my 14 PIU I bought two of these 4 button keyfobs. I programmed them to the vehicle and had a local locksmith cut them for me. They work perfect. Remote start, unlock/lock, etc. I had to add the hood switch and turn remote start on with Forscan.

It was the 12v port. Plugging in cell phones chargers caused it to lose the TPMS signal from one or more sensors. Brand new OEM sensors. Was it where the TPMS was mounted? Bad TPMS module? My chargers noisy? The wiring picking up interference (I wired the console myself). Who knows? I normally...