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More questions regarding an Engine Swap 3.5 to 3.7 I am planning.

It's all the original stuff minus a new water pump, belt, and the new engine. The post I referred to originally mentioned that it was doable with the original stuff. They never mentioned a problem like this, but I also didn't ask
 



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I had thought I replied, I apparently didn't. I am using original ECM and harness. The original post I referred too didn't mention the issues I have now. The car certainly has symptoms, I can feel a loss of power, it lacks oomph. Edit: Oh I did reply and reloading just didn't load the original reply. Oh well happens to the best of us.
 












What year is your car and what year is the engine from
He has a 2011 XLT according to the margin profile and a previous post but has never identified the donor vehicle model or year.

Peter
 






So I did some extra work on it with supervision, and it turns out the intake VVT Solenoid for Bank 1 was indeed faulty. Cleared nearly all the codes minus O2 Sensor 2 for Bank one, which I believe is the exhaust o2 sensor. It appears to me that the original computer and wiring harness are indeed compatible. Replacing the VVT Solenoid restored my power band and removed the rough idling.
 






So I did some extra work on it with supervision, and it turns out the intake VVT Solenoid for Bank 1 was indeed faulty. Cleared nearly all the codes minus O2 Sensor 2 for Bank one, which I believe is the exhaust o2 sensor. It appears to me that the original computer and wiring harness are indeed compatible. Replacing the VVT Solenoid restored my power band and removed the rough idling.
Having same issues kinda. Mines a 2014 switching to a 2018 3.7l. Have permanent misfires on cylinder 253. Double check coils and spark plugs. Really rough idles.

I took the engine out a second time thinking the trigger wheel for the crankshaft position sensor was different but it wasn’t. Now I am kinda. Stumped.
 






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