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My advice is the same.

Accumulators rarely "go bad". Get a gauge set and check out your pressures. Generally when things start going south you may need to replace or flush most major components. I am curious about your conversion. Schrader don'T pop open as a rule. The cap is not the seal, the Schrader down the neck...

Myself, if I have the heads fully exposed and have removed one on an engine with over 100K on it, I would seriously consider doing valves and checking/renewing the heads.

Your question is a good one. Based on the history of this kind of problem, I would suggest you start with the assumption that the shift motor is the culprit. If you want to do further investigation before doing the "fix" detailed elsewhere, using a needle point probe on a voltmeter try and see...

In previous threads it appeared someone was selling just the part for about $40. Is he still around and/or are just the parts available somewhere?

Time to do my rear power windows, but alas, mine ar e the cable type. I vaguely recall that there is a swap out using the later explorer power window parts in place of the cable type, and that someone was making the parts available as a package. But I cannot find that. Anyone able to assist?

Glacier991 is still alive In response to "I wonder if Glacier991 would have expected this thread would still be alive 10 years later" - I can say: I an delighted to see that it not only alive but has generated nearly a half a million hits. I know it helped a lot of folks, and many others...

Forgive me if I am posting this in he wrong place... but I have a 92 Explorer with the auto hubs... which in spite of all their bad press, for my use have been good and useful and performed fine. After 25 years and early 250K miles, the part I think is known as the "actuator cam" on one side...

Joe: Once you have a catastrophic transmission failure, in any part, it is best to replace anything remotely suspect as being affected by the failure. I would put an all new forward clutch assembly back in. Small difference in price. I would completely rebuild the valve body as well. Good...

That would be a greatly appreciated assist. Many guys wrote me and asked me to write them a parts list. Sorry... just wasn't into giving away hours more labor for free - after the many hundreds. If you could do that, it would be a major step forward. Plan on a week of work you give away.

As for backward swap of 5R guts into an A4LD, that is a definiite NO. The best A4LD was the 1993. SOME, again SOME 4R55 parts might backwards fit. FEW. It's maybe impossible to build a really strong A4LD (compared to say a 4R70W - which can be built really strong!). Brain's Frankentranny...

W, S, N interswap..... yes and no. Candidly I was DEEP into this stuff and a woman entered my life... and have not stayed really current since, but there were some essential non-swaps as I recall.

The thing to remember in talking auto tranny design is the COST. The 4R70W started out of a robust transmission in it's own right. Became a darling in racing so LOTS of highpower mods available, etc. The 5R55 started out of the C-3 Pinto transmission. Never a darling of anyone, no high power...

I'd also see if you cannot find the FORD 5R55 3 ring binder manual. It is the bible, and candidly extremely well done. They show up on E-Bay from time to time.

Well, you choose what you want to choose, but I think 48 OZ is WAY over what is needed. read up this thread where others used something under 2 lbs. If you are hellbent of seeing if 3 lbs works, add 28 oz and start checking vent temps...as you continue to add. Maybe if you added a 134 system...

1st Gens used 1 lb 15 oz of R-12. Use a conversion chart to figure out your needed load. **Note edited to show corrected amount**

No.. in fact I have been absent from the forum for a few years, during which time I got married, changed jobs, and in general did other things. The addition of a wife has cut into time I used before to amuse myeslf with the fun goings on here. I still have the 5R55W sitting in my garage, and...

How is the fan doing? A bad fan cluch can cause problems. You obviously know what you are doing, and so I'd investigate the condensor's heat removal. Your idea to recover a few ounces of the charge was a good one....

I would add that in a converted system, with an r-12 condensor, the high sides tend towards those numbers. In gfact the biggest problem in a converted system if often the high side, prompting some to add high side blowoffs. Simple truth, they work but the R-12 system condensor is too small.

<sigh> If you open the system it needs to be evacuated before you recharge. I won't repeat the littany of problems that NOT doing that can produce, but moisture from the air will create acid in the system, and acid will...well... let's just say that a couple years of service will be a good...

After all this time I have to go back and edit my sticky. I said 32 OZ of R-12, which is wrong, It should be 28 OZ. IF you got your 32 OZ from my thread I aologize. I am betting your overcharge, plus your weak fan possibly coupled with a weak compressor may explain your problem. Other answers, a...

OR... rebuild it yourself. See the thread in the transmission forum that leads you through the process step by step.

I suspect you are 180 out.

I am going to go way out on a limb here, but my guess is that if the MAF is unplugged and thus indicates a MAF fault to the PCM, the actual cyl balance test is not run when requested and you automatically get a result that will not indicate a fault. Just a theory.

Assuming that nothing has fragged somewhere else, I would bet that at 55,000 miles the frictions are all good, and a rebuild with an appropriate rebulid kit, and what the heck, replace the servos and put in a rebuilt VB from Donnie, and you should be good to go. Use seal protectors when...