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It depends on three things: How long to you plan to keep the truck? How valuable is your time? How $trapped are you? The cheapest of the cheap refurbed CV's are probably going to last longer than a 20 year old original, regardless of condition or mileage. The boot might look good on an...

Thanks for the great pictures!!!

Glad to be of help. What's that display showing there in Iceland these days?

Glad it worked!

It went well for me. Bad Front Shaft CV was the problem, without question. Everything's quiet and tight now. If you want to spend a bit more $ buy the entire shaft assembly, rebuilt. Less labor involved as you don't have to reuse your driveshaft, etc. I chose the money saving option. On a...

In some cases you can get away with Chinese made parts. Not in the case of ball joints.

No clue why it never was Stickied....

Went ahead & ordered from RockAuto as opposed to buying the same kit & U joint from NAPA for $40 more. Hopefully it will ship soon & saving the $ will be worth the day or two wait. I assume that it needs to be packed w/bearing grease before crimping the boot clamp. Is that the case? I'm going...

Can't seem to find a front shaft CV repair kit...only the shaft itself. How would I look up the repair kit? EDIT: When I search Autozone & NAPA for Driveshaft CV repair, I get Dorman 923-201. That agrees with the 4WD CV repair kit @ Rock Auto (no listing for AWD): I assume that this is...

The CV is toast in my front driveshaft. Since the clicking was clearly the sound that a bad CV makes, and it was reverberating through my front driver's side wheel, I thought for sure it was a bad driver's side CV axle. After replacing the CV axle, the sound persisted. Got it up on 4 jack...

Yesterday, the driver's side CV gave me clear warning that its days were numbered. I'll take a warning anyday. A metallic rat-a-tat when backing up & turning. Not the park-the-car-until-fixed kind of warning, but the better get to it in the next 200 miles kind. Ran to NAPA. Rebuilt axle...

Funny, nobody was charging for this fix before I started this thread more than 4 years ago. That's because I hadn't discovered the fix yet ;)

This is an interesting discussion. I used the info here to do a little research in replacing my twice failed tie rod ends (Duralast) and had some discussion about the topic of quality here. I don't know about Moog or others, but the McQuay Norris (Affinia Group) Extreme line are made in the US...

So this is what I learned: First off, I was able to speak to a courteous, very knowledgeable technician at Affinia Group within about 30 seconds, and I'm not a dealer or distributor - just a retail consumer. That's the sign of a company who stands behind their product, IMO. Secondly, the M-N...

I agree with all of your comments. I'm no gung-ho "Buy only American" guy, but there was a lesson learned here. Many of these companies are cost cutting by outsourcing to China without regard to maintaining the quality standards that their parts - or acquired company once had. With that comes...

Too late - almost. Don, your advice about buying online & possibly having to deal with warranty is good advice. I'll buy locally where I can at least walk into the store & get a replacement or money back (let's hope the Hell it doesn't come to that again). I had ordered a pair of Moog's thru...

Both sets that I got didn't have the grease fitting either pre-installed or in a baggie like some other lubricatable components (like U-joints). These were sealed w/out a threaded opening - or a grease fitting. Just to be sure, I checked before install, and they were 'pre-lubed' with a dark red...

I'm looking at the Moog right now. Even though they're priced higher than OEM & almost 2x what the Duralasts (Fragilefails) cost, they seem to be heavier duty than the OEM. Considering that I've needed an alignment every time I replace these, I wish I'd gone with something other than these...

Let me first say this: I can't say that what I'm about to describe would apply to any year other than a '99 - or if it would apply to a 2wd or a 4wd (anything other than an AWD). I can say that it applies to installing Duralast (ES3461) outer tie rod ends on a '99 V8 AWD 4 years and 20k+/-...

From what I can tell, "fixya" and a handful of other online sites and eBay sellers poached my fix that they charge for from this thread - on this forum. I guess that's capitalism. I've never gotten a cent for this, and I've never asked for it. The hundreds of genuine "thank you's" that I've...

Update Initially, it was bumps or rough pavement/gravel roads that would make the front end clunk. But after hearing a noticeable clunk as I steered to the left and to the right that was getting progressively worse over time, I started to look into my steering components. But what was left...

The sound/feel would qualify that. How did you determine they were bad? Visual, movement w/prybar or disassembly?

'99 5.0 AWD with 215k. I've had a noticeable clunking when going over mild to moderate bumps. I don't feel it in the steering, and it has no effect on the steering (no jiggling left or right, etc). The sound is similar to the sound that two broken or loose shocks would make; or loose lugs on...

..follow up Mach compatibility The Mach system has the same connector as in the schematic, and splicing into the wires as detailed works like a charm. In my case, I didn't bother to splice in RCA connectors. I just spliced in a "Y" connector (L&R leads to headphone plug) for iPods, MP3 players...

Thanks for the time that you're taking w/your suggestions. I appreciate it! Your comments/questions are in regular type Is there any whine associated with the noise you hear? Not much if any at all What does this noise sound like? High pitched whine? Low vibration? a low vibration, and it's...