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:D Happy (slightly-belated) Brithday!!

WARNING FOR '91 and '92 EXs If you have a '91 or '92 EX, please heed the following warning: The manuals all say that if any portion of the RABS fails, that normal (non-anti-lock) braking will still be available. That is not ALWAYS the case. I almost rear-ended a little lady in stop-n-go...

Thanks. No doubt I'm not the first person to get sidetracked from a project because of other things life throws out. First 100 miles down and the wheels are still spinning! Glacier- you have been one busy bee since these posts started. Real nice job on the other writeups.

Thanks. No doubt I'm not the first person to get sidetracked from a project because of other things life throws out. First 100 miles down and the wheels are still spinning! Glacier- you have been one busy bee since these posts started. Real nice job on the other writeups.

I would probably pull off the intake air tube at the intake manifold (one hose clamp) and visually confirm that the throttle plate is closing completely (not stuck open because of some debris lodged in there or the throttle cable not letting it close off).

IT LIVES!!!!! :D I know I haven't updated/responed to any of the posts here in many months, but I started a new job this past spring and this project fell back on my list of priorities, until it came back to the top of the list with a vengence. My four-vehicle family was down to a single...

IT LIVES!!!!! :D I know I haven't updated/responed to any of the posts here in many months, but I started a new job this past spring and this project fell back on my list of priorities, until it came back to the top of the list with a vengence. My four-vehicle family was down to a single...

For earlier ones it is six, for later ones it is eight...here's my '92: The blue bolts are so close to each other that a thick impact socket won't fit.... There is a crank spacer between the back of the crankshaft and flexplate:

OBDII systems use the O2 sensors as a feedback loop to change the amount of fuel being delivered by the fuel injectors. The early Explorers only had one O2 sensor before the pre-cat and things were controlled by that single sensor. I think you would have a tough time getting the engine to run...

I was under the false assumption that Kingkobra had read the thread and knew that we were talking about issues arising from not having a full converter charge (PRE-filling the torque converter) when repairs have been made that let some of the fluid in the TC leak out (such as removing the valve...

Has it been checked for a crimped cooling line?

So King....how do you propose to fill the top half of a TC that hasonly the snout in the middle to get fluid in and out? Are you saying that there is some way of getting the air out and the fluid in with a pump or something??? I'm really curious to know how YOUR shop does it.

'91-'94 came with the 4.0L version of the A4LD. '95-'96 came with the 4R55E (4-speed electronic control)....probably the weakest of the three designs. '97+ came with the 5R55E (5-speed electronic control). Adds an over-driven first gear to get a new gear between the 'old' first and second...

Let me address the second question first....I don't know if we are completely on the same page as to the seals that would need to be replaced. There are two seals - one at the back of the TC (a large seal that requires partial disassembly of the transmission to replace) and small one that is on...

All of the clutch frictions and both bands could be toast, and once the fluid reaches a certain temp, it loses it's ability to lubricate (just too thin to seperate the surfaces) so any bushings and bearings could also be toast. Rubber and plastic seals also hate high temps. All in all, if it...

Yeah, you can remove it by removing the transmission cross member and jacking it up so that the y-pipe can go over the RA cross member. I'm not saying it's easy, just that it can be done. I figured that was easier than trying to get to the top (of three) bolts between the y-pipe and pre-cat...

It almost sounds like a valve body gasket is leaking....if you check the posts by Gcrop it sounds like that was his issue with the 2-3 shift.

If you had the valve body off for a good length of time, up to half of the fluid in the torque converter could drain out. That would bring a total of about 7-8 quarts. Now, if you didn't have the VB off that long, maybe five minutes, I'd expect that only 5 quarts would be needed....

what I did was grind off the two spring-loded bolts behind the cats (corrosion frozen) and then removed the y-pipe at the exhaust headers, so that the y-pipe and cats came off in one piece. I think I might disagree w/ Glacier on this one, as I think that there shouldn't be a whole lot of fluid...

Alright....this third part is ugly because it requires removing the tranny (which is a pretty large effort). The following TSB shows the P0741 code possibly being an issue with the front pump support seal...

Now, you had mentioned that while gassing it on an on-ramp, there was plenty of acceleration and you didn't get codes for incorrect gear ratios for the lower gears (I'm assuming), so we can rule out a slipping overdrive one-way (sprag) clutch as well as the forward clutch. Just thought I should...

I apologize for not seeing this thread earlier (Glacier contacted me last night), but I've been so busy with some contracts that I've only been checking the forums for private messages. That said....your posting of the codes is a great help in helping you. Mercon V (usually a synthetic...

I like the idea. I can see why you are looking at a different cable. Here e-brake cable is good for push-pull action (like a clutch cable), it wasn't meant for transmitting torque. I know that there are flexible shafts made to hook up to your drill press, Dremel, etc., (so you can have the...

I would pull the front driveshaft and see if the noise stops...if it does it is probably your u-joints on the back of the front driveshaft, if not then it probably is the t-case. electronic shift Borg Warner 13-54 is the name of the t-case you (and I) have.

Yellow tranny fluid???? That's not normal. I think they prtty much all start out as red and then turn brown-ish when they get cooked by overheating, but yellow?