Search results

Well...that's what I'm pondering... I don't really need it to lay around and pay insurance on. If someone wants to buy a truck this old, fixing the brakes isn't going to fetch me more money would it? I'm thinking I'd only get 500-700 for it...

I did that last time, and there some scoring in the rotor...and last brake job a few years ago, the calipers were almost ceased...so I'm thinking I'll be needing calipers too (ie. bleed brakes, yada yada).

How much work is it to have the front rotors turned and to replace the pads? I just got a newer SUV so thinking about getting rid of the Explorer cause the brakes are getting down there and from looking on here seems like a pain to take off the rotors (repack bearings, etc.). Plus I need the...

My tach is stuck at 3500 RPM. I though the tach was run from the ignition coil (or at least on my old car it was like that)

Meh...I don't feel like resetting my radio stations! haha Just wondering if this has happened to anyone else.

It goes to 0 like normal when the car is off, then when i turn the key to on, it jumps to 3500 and I haven't even started it yet. Once running, it still stays at 3500, but moves slightly as I step on and off the gas. Any suggestions? I'm thinking an electrical problem? Anyone had this...

You pretty much have to tear apart the whole front end to do the ball joints. So when in pieces, might as well do the u-joints if needed and spindle bearings. Here's a link to the job. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=218254 If you're a novice, this work might be a...

Humm...can't be - I've used my 4x4 all winter long. I suspected an auto hub problem - but maybe I'll spray downt the u-joints with some penetrating lubricant nonetheless and take off the wheels to see if the hubs are binding anything up.

Just started noticing this the past couple of days. After I make a turn, when accelerating out of it, the wheels don't seem to want to return back to centre position on their own. When pulling out of the turn, they straighten out most of the way, but the truck doesn't want to seem to get back...

Ya...I did the same with mine. My new shift motor harness didn't have the lead for the brown wire sensor so I cut the wires off the old shift motor and connected it to the new ones.

Well...I did run into a bit of a problem getting the nut off the bolt from the hanger. The peice that holds the nut in place so it doesn't spin bent and was spinning and it actaully cut a groove in the gas tank!!! YIKES! I saw some sparks flying where it cut through the strap (mind you the...

I picked up a used leaf spring assembly from the bone yard for 45$ and installed it today. Wasn't too bad a job. The one I got from the yard has a bit more curve to it then the one I took off but I'm assuming the old was weakened by the broken leaf in the pack. Anyhow...the truck seems to...

Would it be easiest to just grab a whole leaf spring assembly from a junk yard and swap it out or get a replacement leaf and repack my existing one?

One of the leafs in my leaf spring pack cracked and broke off. It was the 2nd last leaf from the bottom I believe. It cracked right around where the axel is and the front half fell off and the back half is still in the pack. This has caused the clip that holds the pack together on the front...

There's a brown wire that goes from the shift motor to a sensor in the T-case. It's the neutral sensor and if the wire is broken/damaged or missing, then you won't be able to get 4 lo as the computer module won't sense the truck in neutral, even if it is.

Don't bank on the Radius Arm busings taking 20 min. They're a lot harder to do then it sounds if they've never been changed before. There's plenty of write ups on here on how to tackle them.

You could run into trouble if the adjuster screw is ceased or rusted up and won't back off the drums. If that's the case...not sure how else to get them off then bang till the shoes break and the drum comes off.

I wouldn't trust a used one....might be just as rusty and snap when you're flying down the freeway. Pony up the 40 bucks or so for a new one. I got one from a Ford dealer.

Most that I see as well are also rusted around the gas tank filler door.

Along the same line, but the common problem is slack in the throttle cable. Get under the dash and see how much slack is in the cable connected to the gas pedal. Keep in mind there's 2 cables and one is the Kickdown cable for the tranny, it's supposed to have some slack. Do a search on here...

Does anyone have a pic of where to reach the lower intake manifold bolts? Or can describe how to reach them to tighten? Also...what's the torque spec? Thanks!

I just went with the cheapy Monroe Gasmatics (the yellow ones). Man are they horrendous! Go with a good shock if you plan on keeping the rig a while. On a side note...I know you live in the GTA. I might be parting with my Explorer in the spring/summer time frame if I can find a a...

If your truck is anything like mine was last year when I changed the original shocks...make sure you have a can of PB handy and a sawzall! I broke a mounting post on one of the front ones, and had to cut the back shocks off as they were so corroded the bolts had no head left on them!

Thanks guys...ya...Ideally I like to drive my truck hard...but I've been "cautious" lately with it being cold and turning the engine up to 4K. I don't want a belt to snap or a plug to blow out on me again! But that couuld very well be the possiblity that carbon has built up over the past...

Well...I've run 2 tanks of 94 octane through as well as a bottle of Fuel System cleaner and I still hear the ticking. Is it possilbe that the plugs/wires are so old that putting in 94 octane will not reduce pinging? Is there any other ways to combat pinging short of changing the plugs...