How To Turn Off '95 XLT Check Engine Light

CEL came on after Jiffy Lube oil change(1st time I used them); tech said he didn't have correct tool to check since my explorer is older than '96. What's the easiest way to turn it off without spending lots of $$. Thanks in advance for any help.

Welcome to this forum! You have to see what the code is before you erase it or it will come back again. You have an EEC-IV system.

To reset the light, just disconect the battery. Brooklyn is right, the light will probably come back on. Go to your local AutoZone, they should read the code for free.

You only need a piece of wire to check and reset OBD I codes.

http://www.freeautomechanic.com/diagnostictroblecodes7.html

Thanks for posting this link. I'm going to add it to my thread on EEC-IV codes.

BrooklynBay said:

Welcome to this forum! You have to see what the code is before you erase it or it will come back again. You have an EEC-IV system.

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Thanks!

Dopler174 said:

To reset the light, just disconect the battery. Brooklyn is right, the light will probably come back on. Go to your local AutoZone, they should read the code for free.

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Thanks, I'll go to Auto Zone and not mess with the battery.

JL 3x12 Xplorer said:

You only need a piece of wire to check and reset OBD I codes.

http://www.freeautomechanic.com/diagnostictroblecodes7.html

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This is 'greek' to me; I'm the furthest thing from knowing anything mechanical.

'95 Explorer CEL Resolved

lavida52 said:

CEL came on after Jiffy Lube oil change(1st time I used them); tech said he didn't have correct tool to check since my explorer is older than '96. What's the easiest way to turn it off without spending lots of $$. Thanks in advance for any help.

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Auto Zone in San Jose, CA no longer reads codes for you, or rent out tools. So, $100 for diagnotistics revealed Code 113: O2 Sensor was "partially unplugged." So much for a cheap alternative Good lesson learned.

Thanks for the update! You should buy a code reader or a scanner. It will be much cheaper than having the codes read at a shop.

I have this code reader for many years. Amazon has it at a lower price than what I originally bought it for: http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3145-Ford-Digital-Reader/dp/B000EW0KHW.

Take 5 minutes and figure out how to read them- it's not hard, and it'll save you so much headache. The greatest gift Ford gave you is allowing you to read your codes without a code reader. It's really a matter of plugging two ends of a wire into a harness, turning your key on and counting the flashes of your Check Engine Light.

Don't spend $100 to have that done... It's way too easy.

Thanks for the good advice & Amazon referral.

Thanks - is "plugging two ends of a wire into a harness, turning your key on and counting the flashes on the" CEL WITH a code scanner?

The scanner does all of the work. You plug it in, turn on the key, turn on the scanner, and then start to read the codes. The code reader above has a memory function to review the codes when it's finished.

Scanner works as Brooklyn said...

The wire thing is as follows:

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.html

Scroll down to "Test Hook-ups" and jump a wire across as shown between the single connector and the top right hand one. No need to hook up a voltmeter or test light as shown. Just hook the wire, then get in the truck and turn the key to "on" and wait for the flashes.

I think judging by your questions that maybe a code scanner would be the best bet for you and your experience, because if the codes aren't read correctly or missed pulled you'll miss a diagnosis. Once you do it, you'll wonder what the big deal was, but maybe a code reader would be a better option for you.

If you're brave, from Ford Fuel Injection:

How to Prepare for the Self-Test

To check for codes without buying a code reader is simple. If your EEC is wired correctly, the engine light works, and there are not any electrical faults in the vehicle you can get the codes out of your EEC.

Turn key to OFF.
Get a length of wire that can connect the STI to the negative battery terminal or body ground.
Ground the Self-Test Input.
Get some paper and a pen.
Get comfortable in the drivers seat.
Try to keep your self from getting distracted from here on.
Turn key to RUN.
You will hear some relays engage and the fuel pumps prime the system. This is the EEC beginning the test.
When the fuel pumps stop be ready to count!

If you'd like, I can take some pics for you, and I may do that because this topic comes up so much I can't believe there isn't a good, final write up (I found the supplement thread) about this with good pics instead of the MS Paint pics- unless I'm missing it.

The Equus 3145 is a great deal for $25 with free shipping. All you have to do is add batteries, and connect it to your vehicle.

lavida52 said:

Auto Zone in San Jose, CA no longer reads codes for you, or rent out tools. So, $100 for diagnotistics revealed Code 113: O2 Sensor was "partially unplugged." So much for a cheap alternative Good lesson learned.

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$100? And no more loaner tools? :thumbdwn:

I'll have to see if the ones here are doing the same. That blows if they are.

lavida52 said:

Thanks - is "plugging two ends of a wire into a harness, turning your key on and counting the flashes on the" CEL WITH a code scanner?

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Go back to Quick lube they should pay since they caused the o2 senser to become disconnected. You stated no problem, untill they were under the vehicle.