5spd Transmission rebuild....M5OD

TTT

I am off today...

And I should be posting the pictures, and write-up later on today..

Ryan

Many will look forward to this writeup. I know I am.

Ryan;

Have you completed this writeup? Just curious as I picked up a core from the salvage yard yesterday and it's going to need a rebuild before I put it in the Ranger. Also, do you still have that unique puller contraption handy? I think I'll pop the rear enclosure off tonight and see what kind of damage I can see. The bearings feel roung when spinning the input shaft, so bearing replacement is a given, will know more when I tear into it.

Dennis

yes BUMP. my brother has 2 m50d's needing a rebuild and a write up is what he has been looking for.

any updates???

you don't really need the puller... http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1568486

"Many will look forward to this writeup. I know I am."

............1 1/2 years later................

....So I've been a little busy.....

Well, I'm in the midst of rebuilding it again.....

Time to get this done for you guys...

This is the teardown and build up on my 1992 2WD M5OD transmission in my Explorer.

First, remove shifter assembly from the interior of the vehicle,
Next, it's time to disconnect EVERYTHING from the transmission, Clutch Hydraulic Line, Reverse Switch, Speedo Cable, Starter, driveshaft, Crossmember....EVERYTHING....
proceed to unbolt the bellhousing bolts....slide the trans back a few inches, and drop the transmission.
Now that the transmission is out of the vehicle, it's time to open it up. Flip the transmission onto it's bellhousing. Make sure you have some wood, or cardboard to pretect the bellhousing mating surface and input shaft.

If you feel the need AND think you can do it, remove the rear seal.....this is NOT critical, it doesn't need to come off to get the rear housing off.

If it looks in good shape (no cracks, tears, warps, disformations) just leave it alone.

Remove the 2 bolts holding the Transmission Mount.


Now remove the 8 extension housing bolts. You'll see a couple of spots that you can get a screwdriver inside of, and pry it up to allow you to remove it.


Lay the trans back on the ground, and remove the 10 bolts (12mm socket) the hold the top cover. Now you can remove the top cover.

There is this stamped steel oil trough that feeds the rear bushing, I took mine out because I wanted to make sure I got ALL the metal particles I could out of the case...but you may not have to/want to.

Now that we have the transmission case open, it's time to take it apart. Set the transmission back up with the bellhousing on a few pieces of wood to protect the input shaft.
The top most piece on the Output shaft is a black plastic bushing. Pull it off to get started.

Using some snap ring pliers take the snap ring off to get get to the speedometer drive gear.

There's also and steel ball that I used a magnet to pull off the shaft. (note I didn't even notice it until AFTER I got the output shaft nut loosened)

Now you need to lock transmission into first and third gears. Which means, in it's current upright state, you will push the 'bottom' ring down, and you will push the 'top' ring up. Now you'll notice the countershaft, and main shaft eahc has a nut on them.

Therey have been 'staked' in place to keep them from spinning off their shafts. Before you can remove these nuts, you need to 'un-stake' them. I used a combination of small screw drivers, and an awl to do the job. The staked areas of locknuts must be completely undone. Otherwise you might mess up the threads.

The nuts are not going to be re-used. Use a 32mm socket, and remove the countershaft locknut. Remove the countershaft bearing and thrust washer. The Ford manual now calls for a special tool to reach all the way down the mainshaft to undo the nut. I just used a pipe wrench. Worked perfectly in this case.

On the outside of the case you'll see a bolt entering the case where the reverse idler shaft is. Take that bolt out, it should be 14mm. Now you can remove the reverse idler gear assembly as a whole.

This is where that bearing puller I had to make comes into play. Set it up like I have shown and remove the output shaft main bearing. CAUTION: Be sure special tools are properly positioned so as not to damage parts being removed.

Now, from the output shaft, you can remove in order: reverse gear, sleeve counter reverse gear, two needle bearings, reverse synchronizer ring. And from the counter shaft, remove the thrust washer and split washercountershaft.

18. Using a 12mm wrench, remove fifth/reverse shift rod holding bolt.

19. Remove the following parts as an assembly:

l Fifth/reverse synchronizer hub and sleeve assembly (countershaft)

l Fifth/reverse shift fork and rod

NOTE:
Do not separate steel ball and spring (removed from shift fork groove) unless necessary.

20. Remove fifth gear synchronizer ring.

21. Remove the fifth/reverse counter lever lockplate retaining bolt and inner circlip. Remove counter lever assembly from transmission case.

NOTE:
Do not remove the Reverse Torx nut retaining the counter lever pin at this time.

22. Remove fifth gear (counter) with needle bearing.

23. Remove fifth gear from output shaft.

24. Remove fifth gear sleeve and (positioning) ball.

25. Using a 12mm socket, remove six center bearing cover retaining bolts. Remove center bearing cover.



NOTE:
For reference during assembly, observe that reference arrow in middle of center bearing cover points upward. Observe that flanged side of center bearing cover faces inward.

26. Remove slave cylinder. Clutch Controls. Using a 12mm socket, remove six front bearing cover attaching bolts.



27. Remove front bearing cover by threading two M8 x 1.25 (40 mm or longer) bolts into the front bearing cover clutch slave cylinder bolt locations. Alternately tighten bolts until front bearing cover can be lifted away by hand.

NOTE:
Bolts threaded into clutch slave cylinder bolt locations will bottom out and lift front bearing cover away from transmission case.

NOTE:
Do not remove plastic scoop ring from input shaft at this time.



28. Using a 10mm socket, remove oil trough retaining bolt and oil trough from upper transmission case.



29. Pull input shaft forward and remove input bearing outer race. Pull output shaft rearward.

30. Remove countershaft bearing (front and center) by moving countershaft forward and rearward.

31. Pull input shaft forward and separate it from output shaft.

32. Incline output shaft upward and lift output shaft.



33. Tip (angle) input shaft and remove from transmission

34. Remove countershaft through upper opening of transmission case.

Glad to have you back Thanks for the update!

Spdrcer34 said:

....Just took it for it's FIRST test drive.....

AWESOME....TRUELY AWESOME!

I had a little whine that my family has been dealing with for the LONGEST time (read, since the DAY it was bought!)...it was constant with speed. At lower speeds it seemed louder (or possibly just not as masked by the exhaust), My sister had the Trans Rebuilt, I chaged U-joints, drained the fluid, went to Synthetic, swapped the trans gear....NOTHING I did made this whine go away...UNTIL I did this!.

It shifts PERFECTLY into ALL gears, including Reverse. Before it was quite the struggle to get the X into Reverse. I have pics that will show WHY this was. Now it's totally effortless!

It is just a bit more smooth now....

I'll have the write-up(s) finished soon!

Ryan

Click to expand...

So, what was it that was causing it to be difficult to get into reverse? The M5OD I put into mine is a pain to get into reverse, and never feels like it gets in there all the way.

Would you able to repost the pics into your thread? I want to rebuild my M5OD and this looks like an awesome thread but the pics are gone.

subscribing

so it has to come all they way apart to get the input shaft out? bummer