Driver's Side Wheel Locked - 4WD Stuck on

MustangAndy · May 19, 2008

OK, a bit of background for you:

MustangAndy said:
OOOHH I’m not the only one!

Gijoecam:

I noticed the other day when I backed out of my driveway it felt like the driver’s side wheel was going to sheer itself off the studs.

Took it to the family mechanic, and he said that it was stuck in 4wd – replace the shift motor and it’ll be fine.

Notes:
-There are no codes in the computer (I have a scanner)
-The dash lights haven’t/aren’t blinking
-Only the driver’s side is “locked” (EDIT: 8-25-08 ~9pm - By "locked" I mean only the driver's side seems to be engaged on 4lo - passenger's side is fine)

4Lo Test – Done in my driveway after picking the truck up:
-Relay clicked 15-20 times before dash light changed with no resounding normal *Chick-Clunk*
-Refused to come out of 4Lo until I backed up then went forward again.

Any thoughts

-Andy
D.J.O.R. Netzhauptmann

gijoecam said:
Yup. If a person with multiple personalities threatens to commit suicide, is it considered a hostage situation?

Hey, you asked!

About your transfer case problem, the first thing that comes to mind is that you need to find a mechanic that knows about Explorer 4wd systems. The shift motor has nothing to do with transfer case lockup on a second-gen Explorer. Your mechanic is sadly mistaken and pointing his customer down the wrong path. A proper diagnostic would have involved either a quick dirty check like that at the very least, or a thorough diagnostic while connected to a NGS or WDS scanner monitoring the GEM PIDs to see what may be triggering the system. IMHO, that's a mechanic that'll never see my business again. {gijoecam climbs down off his soap-box}

The 4low 4o 4high shift issue was likely caused by the driveline bind-up caused by driving it while locked in 4low. The resulting pressure on the gears didn't allow the motor to complete the shift until the pressure was relieved (by moving it back and forth a bit). Not terribly uncommon... That little motor is strong, but it's not impossible to stall it.

Now, as for the 'stuck in 4wd' issue... The quick and dirty way to determine if it's a mechanical problem or an electrical problem is to first verify that the system is binding-up (the popping, bucking, nasty feeling when making a tight turn is a dead giveaway). Crawl underneath it and disconnect the transfer case connector. Try and make another tight turn. if the problem persists, it's a transfer case issue. If the problem disappears, then we know it's an electrical gremlin we need to track down.

Oh, and in the future, instead of hijacking a somewhat-related thread, please start a new thread... Thanks!

Start there and let us know what you find!

-Joe

So let's take it from there. I disconnected the motor plug (rather big piece of real estate)as per Joe's test and it's still locked as I stated above. So where do I go from here? Is it something I can fix myself or is it best to have Ford look at it? Can't seem to find a 4x4 place near me.

If I were to take it to Ford should I throw my old stock wheels on before I go? I remember the guy at Costco told me that Ford doesn't recommend this tire size for these trucks. They may try to pin the problem on the tires.

-Andy
D.J.O.R. Netzhauptmann

924dr4x4 · May 19, 2008

i would throw the stock ones on andy,although if there is no warranty i dont think it will matter,but if there is still a warranty,throw the stock ones on,just so they cant say oh well this guy has aftermarket rims and bigger tires that aint recommended and he still has a warranty but now its voided cause of the "upgrade"

jonlax · May 19, 2008

its the autolocking hub! About a year ago the army started to put auto hubs on a few of the Chevy trucks because the warn manual hubs were hard to get. They have since locked up like this case you have.

Jon

MustangAndy · May 25, 2008

UPDATE: Finnaly got around to pulling the motor this morning.

The pin on the back of the motor is pointing to "H". Now in the back of my mind I'm thinking "N" is where it should be pointing to, seeing as we have that stupid "auto 4wd".

So if this "pin" is in the correct position how much of a PITA is it to play with the T-case? Like I stated above is it something I can do or is it best for Ford?

-Andy
D.J.O.R. Netzhauptmann

IZwack · May 25, 2008

That shift rod is pointing in the right position..

Remember that 4wd engagement is done via an electromagnetic clutch. So AUTO is the same position as 4HI mechanically but without the electromagnetic clutch engaged.

MrShorty · May 25, 2008

I'm having trouble visualizing the problem. Your initial post says that only the driver's side front wheel is "locked" What do you mean by "locked"? Is the passenger wheel OK? Part of me wonders if the problem is in the wheel (maybe frozen brakes or wheel bearing or something). I would expect a problem with the 4wd system/t-case would effect both front wheels (taking into account the open diff when looking at it). Something that only effects the driver's front wheel seems to me to be a problem from the diff out to the wheel.

MustangAndy · May 25, 2008

IZwack said:
That shift rod is pointing in the right position..

Then I shall reinstall the motor tomorrow.

MrShorty said:
I'm having trouble visualizing the problem. Your initial post says that only the driver's side front wheel is "locked" What do you mean by "locked"? Is the passenger wheel OK? Part of me wonders if the problem is in the wheel (maybe frozen brakes or wheel bearing or something). I would expect a problem with the 4wd system/t-case would effect both front wheels (taking into account the open diff when looking at it). Something that only effects the driver's front wheel seems to me to be a problem from the diff out to the wheel.

By wheel "locked" I mean that only the driver's side wheel is engaged in 4wd. When I turn, in either direction, only the driver's side binds up - pops, jumps, creaks, etc... normal things you'd experience when 4lo is engaged.

You mention that it may be in the front differential. Is it possibly water damage from one of my off-road trips, broken gears, or something else? :dunno:

OR
I've already had the passenger's side wheel hub assembly replaced, maybe the driver's side has gone as well, now? A previous post by Jonlax stated it may be the autolocking hub.

-Andy
D.J.O.R. Netzhauptmann

MountaineerGreen · May 25, 2008

You don't have a locking hub, you have a bearing assembly. If your bearing has failed completely, it could have similar effects.

gijoecam · May 28, 2008

It sounds to me like the whole thing is working... Any hopping or popping while turning in for low is first and foremost bad for it, and second, a clear indication that the system is engaging.

V8BoatBuilder · May 28, 2008

Here's what I'd do:

1) Jack up the front of the truck.
2) Try to spin the front driveshaft. You should be able to with the truck off. If not, then something in the t-case or front diffy is binding. Proceed to step 3. If it rotates, proceed to step 4.
3) If the shaft is stuck, remove it. Then try to rotate the t-case flange and pinion flange.
4) If the driveshaft shaft moves, then go try to rotate each wheel.
5) If (as I assume) the shaft moves and the pass wheel turns, but the driver wheel is stuck, then go ahead and remove the wheel bearing. First you'll have to remove the brakes, and rule out any brake caliper problem.
6) With the bearing extracted, you can see if it's broken, and if the CV axle can turn when freed.
7) If the CV is still stuck, remove it (You'll have to disassemble more of the spindle).
8) Try rotating the diffy pinion and peer into the hole where the CV axle was. If the splines are turning, your diffy is fine.

Follow??

Alternately, sawzall your CV in half.

MustangAndy · May 29, 2008

Wow look what was staring me in the face the whole time. Found this today

: http://explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1817539&postcount=1

Moving on.....

V8BoatBuilder said:
Here's what I'd do:

1) Jack up the front of the truck. A real PITA. Most unsafe thing I have ever done.
2) Try to spin the front driveshaft. You should be able to with the truck off. If not, then something in the t-case or front diffy is binding. Proceed to step 3. If it rotates, proceed to step 4. Shaft doesn't spin. It's stuck. It's hitting something on the T-case end. I can hear and feel the *clunk*.
4) If the driveshaft shaft moves, then go try to rotate each wheel.
3) If the shaft is stuck, remove it. Then try to rotate the t-case flange and pinion flange. not with my small arsenal of tools.

Which makes the rest of this post, although helpful thank you Aaron, useless....
5) If (as I assume) the shaft moves and the pass wheel turns, but the driver wheel is stuck, then go ahead and remove the wheel bearing. First you'll have to remove the brakes, and rule out any brake caliper problem. -Look fine to me. I know how to do my brakes
6) With the bearing extracted, you can see if it's broken, and if the CV axle can turn when freed.
7) If the CV is still stuck, remove it (You'll have to disassemble more of the spindle).
8) Try rotating the diffy pinion and peer into the hole where the CV axle was. If the splines are turning, your diffy is fine.

Follow??

Alternately, sawzall your CV in half. Well now aren't we funny?

Findings:

I can't lift the front of my truck safely.
The front driveshaft is stuck.
It's hitting something on the T-case end.
The front tires spin freely in OPPOSITE directions. This leads me to believe that (thanks to to GIJoe's post) that the 4wd is still engaged and the dashboard is a lying Son Of A B****

-Andy
D.J.O.R. Netzhauptmann

V8BoatBuilder · May 29, 2008

Andy,

Lifting the front of the truck isn't too hard, if you're not removing the torsion bars or a-arms (which you aren't). Assuming you have a good, flat surface, 2 jackstands and a good jack, you CAN do it. If it makes you feel better, you can do the test one side at a time, only jacking up one wheel. Just like changing a tire.

1) Set your e-brake, trans in park, and if you have them, chocks on the rear wheels too.

2) Jack up the truck by placing the jack on either the: jacking tounge on the lower a-arm or the center of the front a-arm x-member.

3) Lower the truck onto the stand, place the stand under the front lip of the a-arm.

Now,

The front driveshaft will NOT spin if both front wheels are on the ground. Also, all t-cases clunk a bit. That's not a definite sign anything is busted.

V8BoatBuilder · May 29, 2008

MustangAndy said:
[*]The front tires spin freely in OPPOSITE directions.

This is normal, you have an open diff.

Although by this comment, it makes me think that you DID get the truck up, and if so, you might just have a t-case issue.

Do try to take off the front shaft. It will at least get you back on the road, as a 2wd, and rule out the brakes/bearings/CVs/diff.

MustangAndy · May 30, 2008

V8BoatBuilder said:
This is normal, you have an open diff.

Although by this comment, it makes me think that you DID get the truck up, and if so, you might just have a t-case issue.

Do try to take off the front shaft. It will at least get you back on the road, as a 2wd, and rule out the brakes/bearings/CVs/diff.

Truck was up just enough to spin the tires. Well tire (single) and a loose rim I had floating around.

Been doing some searching today on the shaft removal and I read that there are about 10 bolts, 6 on one and 4 on the other,that hold said shaft in. Someone also said to mark some kind of flange. What are they talking about?

-Andy
D.J.O.R. Netzhauptmann

V8BoatBuilder · May 30, 2008

Not sure if you have a u-joint, CV or flange at the t-case or a CV, but it's not that hard at all. Just remove all the bolts you see. You might need a 12pt 12mm socket if you have a flange, otherwise it'll be metric head bolts. At the diff end, you'll need a good set of torx (star) bits. Any autoparts store will have them.

As for marking, take a paint pen, silver sharpie, white out, whatever and just give yourself tick marks across the u-joint and flanges at both ends so the shaft can be reinstalled in exactly the same orientation.

Where in the Jerz do you live? Maybe I can swing by your place on Sat evening and pop that shaft out for ya. Shouldn't take more than 10min.

After the bolts are out, collapse the shaft and remove the u-joint from the pinion. Then give the shaft a few whacks with a dead blow hammer and it should fall right away from the t-case.

MustangAndy · May 30, 2008

OK, I will try that when I get home. And I'm going to hold you to that 10 mins. but I'll give myself 20

Also I'm way up North. Just shy of Sussex County. It takes me just over 2hours to get to the Wawa on Oakshade Rd.

-Andy
D.J.O.R. Netzhauptmann

V8BoatBuilder · May 30, 2008

MustangAndy said:
Also I'm way up North. Just shy of Sussex County. It takes me just over 2hours to get to the Wawa on Oakshade Rd.

That is north!! How long does it take you to get to Midtown?

MustangAndy · May 30, 2008

If this is the Midtown your talking about then about an hour: http://www.mapquest.com/maps/47+legion+rd+oak+ridge+nj+07438/midtown+nj/

1 Ford driveshaft out........

And guess what? The problem went away!!

I was so happy I drove around my house twice. :burnout:

So does that mean my T-case is broken?

-Andy
D.J.O.R. Netzhauptmann

p.s. watch my little banana dude and just try and tell me you didn't at least crack a smile.

V8BoatBuilder · May 30, 2008

MustangAndy said:
If this is the Midtown your talking about then about an hour: http://www.mapquest.com/maps/47+legion+rd+oak+ridge+nj+07438/midtown+nj/

I was talking about more of a 42nd St & Broadway Midtown.

MustangAndy said:
1 Ford driveshaft out........

And guess what? The problem went away!! So does that mean my T-case is broken?

Yes. You need a new (different) t-case. You CAN run 2wd until you find one.

MustangAndy said:
p.s. watch my little banana dude and just try and tell me you didn't at least crack a smile.

It's peanut butter jelly time....

MustangAndy · May 30, 2008

It's still an hour. http://www.mapquest.com/maps/47+Leg...-9329/W+42nd+St+&+Broadway+New+York+NY+10036/ Why, what's there? :shifty_ey:

And to change the t-case will require a new case and what else? Or is it possible to open the one I have now and find why it failed.

Last question. What do you mean by "You CAN run 2wd until you find one"? Why is Can all caps? Is that not recommended.

-Andy
D.J.O.R. Nezthauptmann

Driver's Side Wheel Locked - 4WD Stuck on

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Explorer Addict

Well-Known Member

Towing Moderator

Village Idiot

Transplanted Bostonian

Well-Known Member

Transplanted Bostonian

Transplanted Bostonian

Well-Known Member

Transplanted Bostonian

Well-Known Member

Transplanted Bostonian

Well-Known Member

Transplanted Bostonian

Well-Known Member

Featured images

Featured images

Similar Threads