New RAP module works / Remote does not.

After visiting several excellent threads in the Explorer Forum a week or two back, I diagnosed my non-working remote, touch pad and anti theft as a bum RAP module. Ordered a new one from Silver State Ford Parts (~$85) and installed it today.

1. The new RAP module was identical in every way to the old EXCEPT that the old non-working RAP module had a port where what looks all the world like a lead from the antenna plugs in and the new one does not.

2. I now have a working keypad and anti theft. Managed to change the code to my own as well.

3. The remote does not work at all after doing the "on-run" thing 8X. As is supposed to happen the doors lock and unlock and the horn chirps, but when the remote lock or unlock buttons are pushed nothing happens.

The remote not working does not surprise me in that there is now an un-hooked up antenna plug that used to fit in the RAP module that has no jack in the new RAP module. My common sense tells me that I may have to buy a new remote that works with the new RAP module (which presumably has an internal antenna or some other source to receive it's signal, hence is on a different frequency).

> Why is there no place to attach the antenna lead in the new RAP module?
> Does no antenna jack = I need a new remote?

I hope to hear from someone prior to taking my '96 Explorer XLT in to a Ford place to ask them the same questions (knowing ahead of time that I will probably leave very frustrated with their lack of willingness to help!).

Anyone that can help me out with any kind of advice with what I have written here I would be very appreciative! Thank you very much in advance for your time and help.

Scott

Welcome to this forum! Did you compare the part numbers of both modules? Don't solely rely on the guy selling you the parts. Everybody makes mistakes, even the Ford dealer. It sounds like it might be a different part than the original.

Thanks for the question. I was told in several forum threads last week that the part number had changed. The parts place also said it had changed.
> Original / Old / Bad unit: F57F-15K602-AD
> New unit: YL1F-15K602-AA

Very close, but different. I will take this info to Ford as well.

This link is # 89 in my list of useful threads: http://mistercmk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=393. It explains how to read these Ford part numbers.

You can't rely on part numbers. First, your old module may or may not have a part number on it. Many times, what you think is a part number is not. It's an engineering number. Next, there is so little chance of the part numbers being the same anyway that it's futile to go down that road. That number could have changed so many times it can't be traced anymore. Changing numbers is a favorite past time for Ford. You are going to have to rely on your parts man to get you the right part. If you are in doubt, check with another dealer.

You seem to be correct with your antenna assumption. I show the early RAP with an external antenna, while the later one does not. So the question is, what fob do you need to work with this module? I wish I could help you with that.

You didn't mention what model year you have, but you can usually find a used module, that exactly matches the module you have, from one of the used parts vendors on this site. If I recall, I think I paid about $25 for my RAP module, and then was able to reprogram my remotes to the new RAP.

Also, are you sure that your remote does not need a new battery? As to the antenna connection on the RAP, not sure if that means it just doesn't have an external antenna, or that it doesn't support remotes. The latter seems hard to believe that a car with a security system would not have support for a remote.

RAP remote problem solved!

As a "final" entry into this string and as a help to those that read this and have had the same problem, I solved my new RAP module / non-working remote problem today.

Basically my assumption regarding "no antenna port in the new RAP module" = I need a different remote fob was correct. Went to a local Ford dealership and found a sympathetic / dedicated / very helpful parts manager who took the time to help me out. Took about 10 minutes. He searched the part numbers and found that the RAP module that I was sent was the correct one. He took a new remote fob - identical replacement to my existing one in my pocket - and went out to my Exploder. Did the "on-run" thing 8X and hit the buttons on the brand new fob. Nothing. Went back inside and checked parts again only to find that the new RAP module was manufactured in 1998 and did indeed require a new and different remote. Got the new remote from his inventory, went out, and this time it worked perfectly!

BOTTOM LINE: If your old RAP module (my Exploder is a '96) has an antenna lead going in (looks and probably is identical to the plug that goes in to the back of any car radio I have ever seen), chances are very good (100%?) that the new RAP module will not have a jack for an antenna plug. If this is the case you will most likely have to buy a remote fob that is compatible with the new RAP. ($50 for new fob.)
> New RAP Ford part #: F87Z-15604-AA
> New remote Ford part #: 8L3Z-15K601-AA

I simply wrapped some vinyl electrical tape around the now unused antenna plug adjacent to the RAP module and tucked it out of the way. I might have been able to save a few bucks on the remote some where else but since the Ford dealer parts guy helped me solve my problem I was more than willing to pay the $50 for the remote for his time and assistance.

All's well that ends well. Everything about my keyless entry, anti-theft and remote lock entry works like new. Programmed my own code, synced it with the remote, bada-bing, bada-boom.

Silver State Ford Parts were tremendously helpful and followed up terrifically. RAP from them was $85 plus shipping. Highly recommend them. (They're in Nevada some place.)

Thanks to those of you who took the time to respond to my pleas for help.

Great story! I would remember that parts guy. Guys like him are hard to find anymore.

Thanks for the update with good information, and Ford part numbers. I'm sure that this thread will help a lot of people out with the same problem.

I just bought a remote from eBay for my sons' 98 Explorer. The FCC ID code matches up perfectly - CWTWB1U212 - so I expect it should work okay. However, when I did the OFF-RUN sequence 8x, the doors never locked or unlocked and no horn chirping. I did this 3x with the same effect. The instructions I received with the remote said to perform this step with 10 seconds. What did I miss?

Well, the first thing that comes to mind is the battery in the fob. Second thing is you got screwed on eBay. Sure wouldn't be the first time that has happened...especially with those remote sellers. Test the battery and if good, see if your eBay seller will send you another one.

Hi Cobraguy, I can't discount that remote may have a problem, but how would that explain that the Explorer did not react as it should in the first place? Shouldn't I see the doors lock, unlock and the horn chirp after a certain number of OFF-RUN sequences even if I was doing it just for fun?

Yeah, the battery would have no affect on getting the RAP into "programming mode". It can be a bit tricky. Presumably everything works now? i.e. do you have another remote that works OK? Or do you not even have one? If you can't confirm the RAP is working then you probably need to either, 1) try several more times as it's kinda finicky, or 2) try a replacement RAP module.

rizzjc said:

Yeah, the battery would have no affect on getting the RAP into "programming mode". It can be a bit tricky. Presumably everything works now? i.e. do you have another remote that works OK? Or do you not even have one? If you can't confirm the RAP is working then you probably need to either, 1) try several more times as it's kinda finicky, or 2) try a replacement RAP module.

Click to expand...

Hi rizzjc, I do have another remote that works okay. It's missing the unlock button and that was the reason for acquiring the 2nd remote. The keyless entry works okay. I've been researching this issue this morning and found a post from "aldive" from 2007 that describes my problem perfectly. However, I didn't see the final solution.

My owner's manual says to cycle the ignition from OFF-RUN 5x.

I saw one post that mentions a complication from an aftermarket theft system. I saw another post where the 1st described step was to disable the theft system. I don't know how to do this. Several posts described the root cause as a defective RAP module, as you mention.

I'm not sure what to do next, so any further direction from the group is welcome. So far we've paid 18$ for the new remote. I'm not sure of the expense for a new RAP module. I saw one post for $35 delivered and another for $180 delivered.

Well, I thought it was either 8 or 9 times. But I'd try it again. Nice a smooth. I had problems getting it to work. If the other remote works, then I'd think it's fine, but if you wanted to replace the RAP, I'd go for the $25 used, over the $180 new. That's what I did, and it's been working fine for a couple of years.

The remote problem is solved. My son came home tonight and told me he had turned the ignition switch 8x and the doors locked then unlocked. What is interesting is that he ended up with the ignition in the OFF position when this happened. We then had a short discussion about the differences in this procedure from several sources - the owners manual says 5x with the ignition switch in the RUN position, the eBay seller says 8x with the ignition switch in the RUN position as did many posts from this site.

It also important to note that my son performed this function after he had driven the car home and turned off the ignition. At that point, the anti-theft feature was disarmed.

After our discussion, we took the new remote out to the car and my son started the engine and then turned it off. He proceeded to turn the switch from OFF to RUN quickly, probably every 1/2 second. I noted that he used the radio on as his indicator that he was in the RUN position. I has used the dash icons as my indicator and these take longer to light up. Regardless, after 5x, we heard the doors lock and unlock and then I pushed the lock button on the new remote and the doors locked. I then pushed the lock button on the old remote and the doors locked again. We then waited about 30 seconds and checked both remotes and they functioned okay.

Glad you got it fixed. It is definitely finicky. I'm pretty sure that you have to turn it to off before the doors lock, to complete the procedure, so if you were leaving it ON in it's final position, then I'll bet that was your problem.

I need to replace the RAP module on my 1996 Ford Explorer, does anyone know if this is difficult? I called the dealer and they are quoting a price of $250 for the part and labor, but I went online and can get the part for $85. It would save a lot of money if this is something I can do myself. Also, will changing the RAP change the factory code on my keyless entry panel? I know it comes with a code itself when you buy the new one, I just need to be sure that the factory code that is on the truck now will no longer work.
I would appreciate any help!

JennyLynnNJ said:

I need to replace the RAP module on my 1996 Ford Explorer, does anyone know if this is difficult? I called the dealer and they are quoting a price of $250 for the part and labor, but I went online and can get the part for $85. It would save a lot of money if this is something I can do myself. Also, will changing the RAP change the factory code on my keyless entry panel? I know it comes with a code itself when you buy the new one, I just need to be sure that the factory code that is on the truck now will no longer work.
I would appreciate any help!

Click to expand...

Assuming that you have a four door Explorer, the RAP module is driver's side behind the panel in the cargo area. If you take the removable panel off and look forward, you will see it next to some relays. Never replaced it myself, but pretty sure that you have to take the entire trim piece off to gain access. Each RAP has a different factory code built in; there will be a sticker on it with the code. The old code leaves with the old RAP. Good luck.

does anyone know if you can install an RAP in an explorer that never came with keyless entry or a numberpad? and buy a key fob and program it to work?