Swapping a transmission on my 95 Ranger.

i am currently trying to swap the transmission on my 1995 ranger, it is a 2.3 with the 4r44e and im swapping it with one from a 98 3.0 i got the transmission out and noticed that the bellhousings are different so i switched them, then i swapped the neutral safty sensor and as i was looking at it i noticed that the 95 has another sensor on the tail side of the transmission and the one from the 98 doesnt. i done some research and i found out that it is the speed sensor. so i guess my question is do i have to swap the tail side of the tranny too or is there another way

The 2.3L bell housing is like the 4.0L bell housing. The 3.0L is in a class by itself. It will only fit another 3.0L.

what do you mean? the bellhousing from my 2.3 bolted on there and it looked like the same bolt pattern inside too

The rear bolt pattern will fit another transmission, but the front bolt pattern where it bolts to the engine is different.

frankly, I'm confused...

unless that '98 tranny is different from the one I have laying in the floor in my shop, there is no removeable bellhousing. the tranny housing in integral... no bellhousing to remove !?!

as for a bellhousing being the same on a 2.3 & a 4.0....no way. 2.3 has the starter on the passenger side...4.0 has starter on the driver's side.

the Hollander interchange manual shows removeable bellhousings in these models, but I've not encountered one yet.

?? guessing there is different manufacturers of these trannys...haven't found a removeable bellhousing on these little 5 speds yet.

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J...has seen a lot, but not seen all !?!

Some of the pictures in this link might clear some things up: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1330101&postcount=1

im using the bell housing that was on the truck and im putting it onto the tranny that i got from the auto wrecker which has a different bellhousing in order for it to be able to bolt onto my motor but the tranny that i got from the wrecker is missing a sensor which looks like this

http://www.carelectricparts.com/catalog/!BNS9nV!!Wk~$(KGrHgoOKjwEjlLmS!t7BJo3+J8C,g~~_1_1076_1.JPG

That is a picture of the VSS (vehicle speed sensor).

so i have to swap the tailhousing too?
and if thats the speed sensor than what is

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/images/speed/abs_sensor_rearaxle.JPG

This is a picture of the sensor for the ABS on the differential.

so in order to have my speedometer work ill have to swap the tailhousing too? or does it get the speedo reding from the abs sensor, also is there anything that i have to be careful abut when swapping the tail housing

Since your 95 has a sensor on the extension housing, the new transmission will also need to have a sensor in the same place.

sorry about all the stupid questions but should i put some fluid into the converter before installing? and will more fluid go into the converter after the transmission is installed?

You could add fluid into the converter. The transmission will fill the rest of it while you add fluid.

after installing the transmission and now that the truck is back together ive encaunterd a new problem, i was trying to start the truck and it starts and dies right away, it will run as long as i hold down the accelerator and hold it at about 3k rpm. all the rensors are back on except for the o2 sensors but they were broken even before the swap so i dont think that this is the issue, could this be caused by being low on transmission fluid? also when i was removing the transmission i removed the air intake so i could reach the top bolt of the tranny and had to leave it overnight when it was raining and i think i might have got some water in the intake could tghis be causing the problem

Check the IAC solenoid.

took out the iac and cleand it, the problem kept occuring then got a newer iac from the wrecker, still same problem, then i sprays some electrical cleaner ont the intake manifold and the rpms were jumping so i figured its a vacuum leak. i guess i should have changed the gasket before reinstalling the manifold, btw is it ok if i dont torque the manifold bolts to specs? i dont have a torque wrench