5r55s solenoids impedance

Gentlemen, I need some help deciding whether to buy a new solenoid block or a transmission wire harness.
I have a 2004 Exp. XLS, 4.0L, vin k, 4 wheel drive.
Recently the O/D light started to blink after a couple of miles of highway driving, with no noticeable difference in how the transmission acts.
I took the car to a shop and they said that the code stored was P1744, and that the solenoid block has to be replaced.
Today I removed the solenoid block and I measured the impedance of each solenoid. Unfortunatley I do not know what the values have to be, so I have no comparison. The eight solenoids are basically of three types:
Type 1: a single solenoid (measured impedance 9.8 ohms)
Type 2: three identical solenoids (measured imp 4.6 ohms for everyone of them; therefore I concluded they are ok)
Type 3: four identical solenoids (measured impedance 22.6, 22.8, 23.0 and 23.1 ohms; I believe they also must be ok)
Since there is only one type 1 solenoid, I am thinking that there is a chance that this one might be out of specified impedance range.
I checked the continuity between each solenoid and the central pins and they seem to be ok (instead of 0.0 ohms I got 0.1 - 0.2 ohms, but I think that's ok)
The other thing I am thinking of is that the control cable might have a broken wire.
If somebody knows the impedance values for these solenoids I appreciate if he could post them here.
I plan to apply 12v to each solenoid to see if it reacts to the voltage (using a small 12v bulb in series so I will not burn a good solenoid).
If anybody has some suggestions regarding this issue, please post!
Thanks in advance
Dorin

Don't apply voltage to each solenoid. The shift solenoids are basic on/off devices, but the TCC & EPC are PWM with inductive signature. These blocks tend to act up around 60K miles.

Thanks for telling me about the voltage.
The car has 90k miles and I think the ATF was never changed (it was kind of dark).
I manage to find the impedance for these solenoids:
http://www.zoom-tech.com/downloads/support/tranxpages/ford/5r55w-s.pdf
Mine seem to be ok, considering just the ohms.
I think will end up buying another block.
I found a new solenoid block for $280 (including S&H) on the internet. Does anybody know a lower price for a new block?

WWW.800700Tran.Com sells them for a lot less, but lately people were having problems with them. I suggest that you speak to somebody before you place an order. Thanks for posting the link with the chart!

Thank you for the link. Unfortunately the blocks are used. As of today there is a seller on ebay that sells remanufactured blocks for $105 including S&H (with 5 years warranty). But as you said, these blocks act-up around 60k miles and if I get an old one I will end up opening the tranny when I least expect it. At least with a new one I will have peace of mind for a while.
I will post the result of changing the solenoids next year
Happy holydays

One more question, please:
I found a new solenoid pack near me, but I'm not sure if it is the right fit.
The seller says it is for 5r55 transmission, for Ford Explorer 2004 and up.
The thing is the code on my solenoid pack starts with: 4L2P... and the code on this new pack starts with: 9L2Z...
Is there any difference between these two? Can I use the new one in my transmission?
I plan to go see the pack in person. Should I look for something in particular?
Thanks for your input.
D

Check the links in # 77 in my list of useful threads.

Bad news.
I changed the solenoid block with a new one and put new ATF and filter, and it made no difference.
It seems to me that the RPMs are even higher then before on highway. O/D light starts flashing shortly after I enter the highway (1-2 miles).
Switching on/off the OverDrive makes just a little bit of difference in RPMs (like 300-400RPM).
I tried something elese today:
With the car in drive and the brake fully depress, I pushed the gas peddal to the floor. The RPMs go to 2,200. Is this a sign of a bad TC?
Any ideas are welcome.
Thanks

Did you check the internal wiring harness? What are the code numbers?

The code is P1744
I wanted to check the harness but I thought that I need a special tool for that. Is there a way to do it with just a multimeter?
Thanks for you time

Use a continuity tester to check the wires from end to end.

BrooklynBay, I didn't ask sooner because don't want to sound to stupid...but I have no choice now: where/what is the internal harness?
I looked for an obvious internal harness in the transmission (after removing the pan, but I didn't see any. Are you talking about the harnes that connects tot he solenoid block (outside the transmission)? If yes, where is the other end?
Thanks for your help and sorry for this stupid question (I even looked on ebay for an internal harness so that I have an ideea about how it looks, but I couldn't find one).

It's the harness that's connected to the transmission with wiring going to the solenoid block.

Here are some examples of internal wiring harnesses for the 4R55E/5R55E (I couldn't find a picture of the 5R55S harness):

Thank you so much for your help. I will test it in the weekend and let you know the result.

Man!! I am helpless like a little girl...
I know it is easy to test the continuity of a bunch of wires if you have them on the table. But how should I test this harness if I cannot even see the other end? Is it possible to do the testing with the transmission on the car?
Or can this harness be removed without dropping the transmission?
I need a little more guidance... Please advise!

Test the harness from one point to the other while it's still in your vehicle. Drop the pan on the bottom of the transmission (might be a little messy), then check the other end of the harness. The color of the wire is the same on the outside of the harness as the inside.

I'm not sure we are talking about the same thing here. I see that the harness connects to the solenoid bloc through a round plug with some pins (that is one end of the harness that I can get to). The other end I suspect it goes to the TCM. Right? If so, then the plugs are different and how should I know what are the corresponding pins?
Thanks again for your patience

All of the wires are color coded.

BrooklynBay, you are a great man. Thanks for all your replies. At this point I thought it is a dead-end situation for me and I took the car to a dealer this morning. They said that the torque converter had failed mechanically and it needs to be changed (they got the code P1744). They quoted $1,000+tax and I said ok.
A transmission shop said the same thing, but they wanted $2,200 to reman. the old one.
Hopefully the dealer will fix it. I will keep you posted.