AODE/4R70W Shifting Issues

[DieselAvenger]

I hate to post this up in a non-mustang forum, but it appears there are very knowledgeable folks that may be able to help me here.

I installed a Superior shift kit into a AODE/4R70W in a 1994 Mustang. The transmission will only shift into Park, Reverse, and Second gear now. It sounds more like an electrical problem than mechanical from what I can find. Ive dropped the valve body for a second time and went back through the installation procedure and everything appears correct. I installed springs on top of the 1-2 accumulator where there previously were none.

I opened the valve body back up and the check balls, drainback valve, and screen were in the correct locations.

Reverse works, and second works. It seems like, but i cant verify, that it will ATTEMPT to shift into third gear, however its like im in neutral when it does. The fluid that came out was a bit burnt when I went to install the kit, and there was a lot of material on the magnet in the pan. However, the trans was working normally. The converter will lock up with the gear selector in second gear, and unlock in first gear, so that tells me the TCC noid is working. I get no codes. I verified that the shift, TCC, and EPC noids have the correct resistance.

So... any suggestions on things to check?

 

[jonafer]

Hello. Is the mustang a 5 liter or a 3.8? What kit did you get? Was it for the street or full race setup? The reason I ask is because I race two of theses monsters and know your pain.

 

[DieselAvenger]

Hello. Is the mustang a 5 liter or a 3.8? What kit did you get? Was it for the street or full race setup? The reason I ask is because I race two of theses monsters and know your pain.

5 liter street setup.

1994, but the transmission in it was a rebuild from Ford I believe, and has all the newer 4R70W parts in it. We got it from a guy in Ft. Lauderdale when the clutch packs went on the original trans practically for free.

 

[Glacier991]

Hmmm... lets start with more simple things... and with the assumption everything was ok before the shift kit.

Did the DTR sensor get moved? DTR alignment would be an easy thing to check. In neutral do the lines inscribed on the DTR line up?

Assuming that is ok, next on my list of suspects is the shift solenoid pair. They are not used in reverse. If they are left unpowered, you will get 2nd gear. In 1st gear SS 1 is on and SS2 off. In 3rd gear SS1 os off and SS2 is on. 4th is both on. Check for power to the solenoids. This is a strong possibility in my mind.

Did you bolt up the VB properly, torque wrench and in the right tightening sequence? New VB gasket?

There are VB possibles, but these I will defer since you have been thru the VB twice. If a checkball is suspect it would likely be checkball no. 1 and or 3.

Let us know what you find.

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, Chris mentioned things I've heard before. One of my 95 Crown Vics lost 3rd and 4th right after a valve body kit, it was evidently ready to go, coincidence.

The logic check seems like a good place to end up at. I've altered those signals to create a 2 speed trans out of my other 95 Crown Vic. The signals are just like basic base two math. If one of those signal wires is interrupted you can end up with odd gear selections. My PCM threw a code though when that happened more than once.

Hopefully your issue will be simpler, like the DTS adjustment. Good luck,

 

[DieselAvenger]

The power to solenoids issue was one I was thinking about as well. Converter locks up, so I know there is power to the TCC noid.

I used the new gaskets that came with the valve body kit. I tightened them to 100 in-lb. I didnt have a pattern but I went from the inside - out. Only pattern i have seen is for the cover.

I didnt touch the MLPS on the side of the trans at all... but when I take the pan off again, i'll turn the car on and see what the noids when it is shifted. That should be enough to tell me if its electrical or mechanical.

Only other thing I can think of is if the 1-2 accumulator or 3-4 accumulators are leaking fluid badly. They both seemed to have a good seal. I added a spring in both of them, but if the electronics work I may take those springs out to see what happens. The piston in the 3-4 just stayed up in the bore, and the little cover the spring sits in popped right out. It looks like that normally rests on top of the valve body. The other two pistons have snap rings and I didnt touch them. I may have to get out a pressure tester and see what pressures im getting.

 

[Glacier991]

The first pressure port to check is the direct clutch pressure. If you told me you had this problem and had not just done the VB, I would have guessed a problem in tyhe direct clutch, which actuates 3rd gear. The direct clutch is a problem child.

 

[DieselAvenger]

I'll check that guy tonight at idle.

I just pulled the springs on top of the 1-2 actuator that werent there before and went for a drive.

Here's what its doing in full detail.

When in 1, its in 2nd.
When in D its in 2nd, and the converter will lock.
When in 3, it stays in second but the converter unlocks.

Sound like solenoids?