Broken Differential Pinion Shaft Lock Bolt, Am I overpaying?? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Broken Differential Pinion Shaft Lock Bolt, Am I overpaying??

sne43

Member
Joined
April 15, 2009
Messages
37
Reaction score
1
City, State
Minnesota
Year, Model & Trim Level
'97 XLT, 4.0 6 Cyl., SOHC
My '97 ex developed a grinding noise. I found lubricant in the passenger side rear wheel/break area. Took it to my local shop. They indicated it was probably the seals, but would need to look into the noise. They used a stethescope and isolated the noise to the rear differential. Given the high miles, and my not wanting to spend too much asked them to just replace the axle seals and fill with new lubricant and an additive that they felt might help the noise. Upon getting in there, they cant get to the seals because the Differential Pinion Shaft Lock Bolt broke. This is common. They charge $400 to pull it out and quoted $800 for the total job. They will not guarantee that the noise will be gone. Thoughts?
 



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yikes! it'd be cheaper just to swap an axle with the correct gears in it!
 






Problem not solved.

So they took out that lock bolt and replaced the seals to stop the leak. They put in an additive to try to quiet the noise. I picked it up, but still have the noise. They did not see anything in the differential that they could get access too with the work I approved. Where would be the next logical place to look for the noise back there. Perhaps I should just sell it.
 






With all the "CASH FOR CLUNKERS" arriving at the scrap yards, you could get a used rear axle assembly rather cheap. I just put one in. I got a 6 month warranty and it cost me a total of $138.00 for the whole rear end. I replaced the seals myself in the before I installed it. (Both seals at the parts store was under $20.00) and was on my way down the road in under 6 hours. The ONLY place I ran into trouble was the brake line that crosses over from the drivers side to the passenger side was toast on the "new to me" one. Bought a tubing bender, measured out the length, got a "close enough for me" length at autozone, and bent it up myself. (tubing bender, brake lines and brake fluid about another $30.) All said and done for under $200.00. (I am assuming you are mechanically inclined and own a good set of tools)
 













I had the same problem back about a year ago, I used that same exact tool. Worked like a charm. Since then, I have always used a new carrier bolt after removing one. Learned my lesson the hard way, but not as hard as this OP has...yikes! $800! Wow! Sorry for that man, that stinks. I can buy a whole donor vehicle for that much change.
 






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