Clearing Codes

[everythinghurts]

I have a 95 Explorer 4.0 v6 push rod.
I need some help clearing codes so I can see if these are relevant codes or old ones.

To be clear I have disconnected the battery a few times while doing repairs and also had to put a new battery in as it was old anyways.

My question, is there a certain trick? Do I just remove the negative? Just the positive?
What do I need to do to clear the codes?

I ask because I'm pretty sure one of the codes that's popping up was already repaired.

I'm sorry if this seems like a stupid question but I'm trying to learn.

 

[Wrath]

I have a 95 Explorer 4.0 v6 push rod.
I need some help clearing codes so I can see if these are relevant codes or old ones.

To be clear I have disconnected the battery a few times while doing repairs and also had to put a new battery in as it was old anyways.

My question, is there a certain trick? Do I just remove the negative? Just the positive?
What do I need to do to clear the codes?

I ask because I'm pretty sure one of the codes that's popping up was already repaired.

I'm sorry if this seems like a stupid question but I'm trying to learn.

Disconnecting either positive or negative would do it. (I recommend the negative just because it won't hurt anything if the tool you're using to loosen it touches anything else inside the engine bay). Leave the cable disconnected for about 30 minutes, as a quick disco/reco will not clear codes.

 

[J_C]

Disconnecting the battery for a minute should work. I've never had any codes that would clear with that method, not cleared after that period of time.

Some codes won't clear that way and you need a scan tool capable of it. In that case I use an ELM327 based dongle and either the paid lite version of Forscan app, or the free version of Torque app. Any other scan tool capable of clearing codes will work too but for Ford specific codes, it also has to recognize them too, which the most basic models of OBD2-only scan tools won't.

 

[Pete Deering]

I have a 95 Explorer 4.0 v6 push rod.
I need some help clearing codes so I can see if these are relevant codes or old ones.

To be clear I have disconnected the battery a few times while doing repairs and also had to put a new battery in as it was old anyways.

My question, is there a certain trick? Do I just remove the negative? Just the positive?
What do I need to do to clear the codes?

I ask because I'm pretty sure one of the codes that's popping up was already repaired.

I'm sorry if this seems like a stupid question but I'm trying to learn.

Just disconnect negative battery terminal for 20 second, that will turn off the CEL

 

[everythinghurts]

Thanks everyone
I removed the negative and left it off for about 30 minutes. Check Engine light is still on. I will recheck for codes later.

 

[Pete Deering]

Thanks everyone
I removed the negative and left it off for about 30 minutes. Check Engine light is still on. I will recheck for codes later.

What codes are u getting?

 

[everythinghurts]

What codes are u getting?

172, 214 and 542.

I'm pretty sure 214 was the original code I got before we replaced the camshaft synchronizer and sensor

 

[Wrath]

Thanks everyone
I removed the negative and left it off for about 30 minutes. Check Engine light is still on. I will recheck for codes later.

That's super weird. Might need to leave the cable off for longer. Do you have anything in there that could be storing a charge, like capacitors for a big sound system or something? If the codes are gone when you first reconnect and start, then appear after a few seconds or a minute, then it's the code coming back because the problem is still there. Definitely pick up an ELM327 if you have a laptop to connect it to. It's an indispensable tool for debugging your Explorer.

 

[J_C]

^ I use my ELM327 dongle with my phone, more often than a laptop.

Laptop (or those relic windows tablets, lol) running windows is needed for programming things with Forscan windows app and has a bit more functionality, but for just pulling or clearing codes, or especially seeing realtime data while driving, more convenient to use a bluetooth ELM327 dongle for android phones, or wifi dongle for apple.

The wifi version will work for android phones too but is typically a little more expensive and I'm pretty sure I'll never have an apple phone as the primary I have with me. If I have the phone with me anyway, and the ELM327 dongle in the glovebox, can use it any time, anywhere.

 

[Explorer2.0]

ELM327 works on a '95?

 

[everythinghurts]

ELM327 works on a '95?

That's what I was going to ask.
I have to do my testing under the hood. Ive tried at least 3 different obd2 scanners and also getting the adapter that hooks to the scanner then to under the hood and I can't get a link.

Edited to say I also tried this scanner:

INNOVA 3145 Ford Digital OBD1 Code Reader​

And it just gave the all clear code

 

[J_C]

ELM327 works on a '95?

Oh... oops! Forgot or didn't notice it was a '95. IDK the finer details about that since it's pre-OBD2, though there must be existing forum topics.

 

[everythinghurts]

Can someone possibly recommend a scanner that will do both obd2 and obd1?
My brother has a 97 f150 and it'd be nice to have something that will scan both.

I've done a couple searches here and I saw someone recommend the one I'd bought before, that's why I bought it but as I said, it just told me everything was good.

Thank you for being patient with me

 

[Pete Deering]

172, 214 and 542.

I'm pretty sure 214 was the original code I got before we replaced the camshaft synchronizer and sensor

The 214 camshaft synchronizer and sensor code goes away by itself after replacing camshaft synchronizer

172 code O2 sensor on bank 2 has recognized a too lean mixture,. Vacuum leak

The 542 code happens when the Fuel Pump Relay is "told" to close (to provide 12v to the fuel pump) by the PCM, and the PCM didn't detect 12v on pin 8. That's the only sensor that the PCM has regarding the fuel pump. A common problem is the Fuel Pump Relay went bad.

 

[everythinghurts]

The 214 camshaft synchronizer and sensor code goes away by itself after replacing camshaft synchronizer

172 code O2 sensor on bank 2 has recognized a too lean mixture,. Vacuum leak

The 542 code happens when the Fuel Pump Relay is "told" to close (to provide 12v to the fuel pump) by the PCM, and the PCM didn't detect 12v on pin 8. That's the only sensor that the PCM has regarding the fuel pump. A common problem is the Fuel Pump Relay went bad.

Synchronizer and Sensor were replaced over a month ago.

Tomorrow I will look into checking for a vacuum leak.

Tested the Fuel Pump Relay and it was clicking but will look into more info or possibly replacing it.

 

[Wrath]

^ I use my ELM327 dongle with my phone, more often than a laptop.

Laptop (or those relic windows tablets, lol) running windows is needed for programming things with Forscan windows app and has a bit more functionality, but for just pulling or clearing codes, or especially seeing realtime data while driving, more convenient to use a bluetooth ELM327 dongle for android phones, or wifi dongle for apple.

The wifi version will work for android phones too but is typically a little more expensive and I'm pretty sure I'll never have an apple phone as the primary I have with me. If I have the phone with me anyway, and the ELM327 dongle in the glovebox, can use it any time, anywhere.

I forgot about the wireless versions. I got the USB version and running FORScan on my machine.

 

[410Fortune]

If the cam sensor code keeps coming back then you need to re visit your install and do some checking