Planning a new suspension...

[Freshmeat]

Just want a "second set of eyes" if you don't mind.

I'm about to completely redo my suspension. 2" lift on 34s looks awesome, but I hate having to go WOT just to clear all the breakovers. Here's the parts list:

4" drop axle pivot brackets
5.5" coil springs
Drop pitman arm
Extended radius arms (12" - 15")
Extended brake lines
Either custom or F150 radius arm brackets
F250 shock brackets
No clue what bumpstops to run

The plan is to go 5.5" up front and SOA in the rear.

Front: Superlift uses the 4" brackets for both the 4" and 5.5" kits so I figure it'd just set the geometry like a 2" lift without brackets. I'm going with used parts wherever possible. I'm slowly gathering parts for a SAS so I don't want to spend too much on this stage of the process. Going used I should be able to recuperate most of the investment by reselling. I intend to extend a spare set of stock radius arms by 12-15" as needed and will allow for camber correction the best I can when they're built. Also, I have F250 shock brackets to add for a little extra flex while I'm already tearing into things. I was given a part number for some 26" brake lines, which I'd imagine would suffice. I genuinely don't have a clue how I'll set up my bumpstops- any suggestions on that?

Rear: I'll grab a second gen 8.8 and SOA it. I'm going to have the shop who built my bumper add shock studs toward the bottom of the axle, as well as build an upper shock crossmember that will double as a mounting point for my OBA tank to keep it out of the cargo area. I don't know what to do for a rear brake line, but the bump stops should be simple to build.

Another idea while I have the rear axle out is to eliminate the center console for a hand brake lever, so I can control the parking brake easily in the event of a tight maneuver on an incline.

I think that covers it- is there anything I'm forgetting? Any suggestions on what I can do differently? Will my stock driveshafts be okay at this amount of lift?

Thanks for any advice, guys- I'm ready to make this thing a little taller!

 

[Dannyboy]

I never ran a bumpstop with that style of lift and was fine. If you wanted to, there are various ones available. I have one that is 4.5" and compacts down to about 2.25" just by cycling the suspension. I only use these to absorb some of the whoops and also keep my 35's out of my fenders with only 5" of lift.


*edit- I read your build thread and see you don't have any swaybar. Also, good call on changing out the coil bucket & shock tower for the future lift. Why not go with some coils for the SAS as well, they'll be way softer on your ttb but it will flex better and then you won't be buying them again when it's time for the SAS. I think GLFredrick has this mod on his incredible budget build list of suggestions.

 

[Freshmeat]

On the EB coils, the end that necks down... as the coil "tips off" it goes straight down the middle of the spring, not in a full circle like ours do. I don't know how that would mate up to the stock spring seats on the D35. Believe me- I'd love to get EB springs and not have to buy them again, but I'm nervous about how they'd sit on the spring seats. Do you know of anyone who has actually used EB springs on a D35?

 

[Four0Sport]

If youre going for a SAS in the future I really wouldnt waste the time and money on a TTB lift. If I would have had the knowledge and experience I do now when I first lifted my truck I wouldve went with a SAS right off the bat.

That doesnt mean you cant wheel a TTB.. you can, and very well. I impress jeep guys all the time when I take the Explorer out. With that being said there are some things you can do differently than most TTB lifts and get better performance. Deffinetly extend the radius arms! They are my biggest complaint on the trails. Rub everything, limit flex, sucks. Look at 6" Jeep lift coils, they are a bit softer and will help with the flex. Youre on the right track with the taller shock mounts if you extend the RA, that will help alot. DO run a bumpstop.. I didnt install a taller bumpstop right away and got the dreaded rub on my front diff from coming down hard with the drop bracket. The Energy ones I have are a good bit longer than stock and I havnt had any rubs since installing them.

Hope this helps..

 

[Dannyboy]

Do you know of anyone who has actually used EB springs on a D35?

9. 1975-1979 F150 coil springs. Cost $20.00 (salvage yard find). These are softer and flex much better than factory springs. They will not give lift, but they will give travel. Add a coil spring seat from an F150. Cost $30.00 to gain an extra 1.5" of lift.

seen here

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2134768&postcount=7

The 75-79 F150 is essentially the same front suspension as the early bronco so coils should look similar. You are right though, the mounting surfaces look completely different but I guess it works.

 

[Freshmeat]

I'm very familiar with that thread- I've been over it multiple times. Haha!

At this point I think I'm going to suck up the low belly clearance and pick up the next set of axles I find with either a high pinion D44 or a D60 front.

I want much bigger tires. I'm ready to go from, "That's sweet," to, "Holy ****!"

We'll see how it goes. Thanks for all the help, guys!