Well, It Finally Happened

[UtahX]

After owning this truck since 2003, 248,000 miles. The timing chain, guide/cassette, and probably more (Rod....) is shot. I will be getting a rebuilt with a 4 year parts and labor included. Hopefully, most parts can be used from my engine, might put a new water pump on though. Had another option for around $800-$1000 less for a used engine with 140,000 miles on it, with a 12,000 or 12 months, whichever is sooner, parts and labor included. As far as I know, this used engine could still have the original problems with 2nd gen's. I think the $800-$1000 extra is a better piece of mind, to me, hopefully.

 

[UtahX]

After owning this truck since 2003, 248,000 miles. The timing chain, guide/cassette, and probably more (Rod....) is shot. I will be getting a rebuilt with a 4 year parts and labor included. Hopefully, most parts can be used from my engine, might put a new water pump on though. Had another option for around $800-$1000 less for a used engine with 140,000 miles on it, with a 12,000 or 12 months, whichever is sooner, parts and labor included. As far as I know, this used engine could still have the original problems with 2nd gen's. I think the $800-$1000 extra is a better piece of mind, to me, hopefully.

Can I start using M1 synthetic oil, with this rebuilt or should I have to wait for certain mileage?

 

[410Fortune]

Remanufactured long block should be broken in-using break in oil it has a lot of zinc in it and some high pressure additives that help when an engine is new. Run it through several heat cycles with this oil and then drain it out and change the filter
I then run conventional oil for the first 500-1000 miles and then swap to semi synth and finally the last change to full synthetic

Now that is what works for me
What you should do is whatever your engine
Builder tells you to do. Many of them will have you run the break in oil for 500 miles and then switch straight to full synth. Others will tell you to run full synth right out of the box. Check with your
Builder and do whatever they suggest in an effort to keep that warranty

Often it is better to reman an engine that is still working good rather then wait for catastrophic failure

 

[UtahX]

Remanufactured long block should be broken in-using break in oil it has a lot of zinc in it and some high pressure additives that help when an engine is new. Run it through several heat cycles with this oil and then drain it out and change the filter
I then run conventional oil for the first 500-1000 miles and then swap to semi synth and finally the last change to full synthetic

Now that is what works for me
What you should do is whatever your engine
Builder tells you to do. Many of them will have you run the break in oil for 500 miles and then switch straight to full synth. Others will tell you to run full synth right out of the box. Check with your
Builder and do whatever they suggest in an effort to keep that warranty

Often it is better to reman an engine that is still working good rather then wait for catastrophic failure

Thanks for the info/heads up. Yes, I will definitely see what they say.

 

[donalds]

My remanufactured engine came with instructions on the break in I believe it was the 1st 3,000 m run non synthetic oil

 

[UtahX]

My remanufactured engine came with instructions on the break in I believe it was the 1st 3,000 m run non synthetic oil

Nice to know, I will check with the shop. Thanks.

 

[UtahX]

Often it is better to reman an engine that is still working good rather then wait for catastrophic failure

Does this include a better working part for that plastic **** of a timing guide/chain cassette?

 

[UtahX]

Got the truck back today. A lot quieter than before, lol First oil change (regular) at 600 miles. Can switch over to full syn at the 5000 mile mark. Ended up with a new thermostat housing, new water pump, new plugs/wires. 4 years unlimited mileage, and labor, Car rental, towing.

 

[UtahX]

What would be a good conventional oil, before going back to Mobil 1?

 

[410Fortune]

Conventional (Dino) oil can actually be harder to find these days. Any house brand will work stp, or castrol I have seen those on the shelves

Motorcraft makes a nice semi synthetic that can be used between the Dino and Mobil as well
Molylube and stp also make high zinc additives and high pressure additives that can be used to help with the break in period