Project thread: “Beast” | Page 7 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Project thread: “Beast”

You are changing the pass uca to the one piece? You must install camber shims if you go the the one piece passenger side. If that is the case you can cut the factory bolts

They will not be able to
Align your truck if you did not install correction shims on the passenger side
From the pics it looks like you did but they are black? I am used to seeing them chromed

Red license plate lights? Displaying red blue green will get you pulled over up here in Idaho they are really cracking down

You are like a master of these vehicles or something.

got the camber bolts and adjusters and an oversized Moog ball joint coming. So I can get it properly aligned 😅.

Putting on the sanded down gauges with red LED while waiting for more parts. Road trip we leave next Thursday. On a time clock now.

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School of hard knocks
Been there done that
I learn the hard way and by “doing”
I live and breathe these trucks for the last 25+ years
So what I try to do here is give back for all the help I have received!
 






Got the new camber bolt set in passenger side. He wanted theM on the driver side as well..? So I got both sides changed to new moog camber bolt sets.

I have the driver side apart waiting for the oversized lower ball joint should be here tomorrow.

New sanded down clear gauges are glued on and got these nifty red LED installed. While I had the gauge faces off I used the opportunity to make sure the LED were all working inside before putting it back officially. All 6 working well and work with my dimmer switch even. Truck has to be back together tomorrow night, alignment try 2 is Thursday morning.

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Cool! I want to see the red cluster in all my years I have never seen anyone do red on these fords

I didn’t know you could sand off the green! Very cool
 






Cool! I want to see the red cluster in all my years I have never seen anyone do red on these fords

I didn’t know you could sand off the green! Very cool
I’ll have em back in tonight :). I had to delicately peel the face plate off. It is glued down on a few spots around the base of the needles mostly, and a couple spots up at the top of the cluster left and right for the center gauge.
 






Looks a lot more red then the second picture gives justice .. but either way I am very pleased with that change.

I had some mis fires when I was out driving never had that before… felt like the engine was dumping to much fuel all the sudden, happened mainly when I was at a lower rpm but under load. Sounded like only the right side.. always something with my rig. It had brand new plugs and wires, but maybe I burnt up a wire and I have a cylinder throwing fuel into the headers ? Don’t have much time to analyze it tonight.

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Welp first burnt wire from the headers even with Amazon cheap sleeves and I thought decent routing. I am happy that this is the cause of the misfire / backfire issues I hope.

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Maybe I'm just lucky, but I haven't had that issue yet. I'm running DEI aluminized sleeves on my wires and they seem to be holding up.
 






I have seen wet socks do this to wires, any chance you had washed your engine recently?
 






I have seen wet socks do this to wires, any chance you had washed your engine recently?
It rains a lot here and I have yet to put my splash gaurds back been doing a lot of front end work. That’s good to know, I will keep an eye out for that too.


Maybe I'm just lucky, but I haven't had that issue yet. I'm running DEI aluminized sleeves on my wires and they seem to be holding up.
Yea my stupid addiction to red accessories had me get those Amazon sleeves. I’ll grab 2 sets of the aluminzed if I have any more issues.

With the new 7th wire the misfire is gone thank goodness. Powers back no bogging or shudder. I just want a few days of no CEL and being able to see if I can keep the mpg at 18 or above on the highway.
 






I get that! Hang in there

At least it’s easy fix, not like me who forgot to torque a cam bolt and ended up needing a different engine after my two test drives
 






I get that! Hang in there

At least it’s easy fix, not like me who forgot to torque a cam bolt and ended up needing a different engine after my two test drives

Won’t ever give up on this rig lol.

On the way to work my O/D off light is flashing now 😅 I swear I will make it on this road trip. I technically have rebuild parts for that, just didn’t want to dive that deep into the trans.. but really I was so close at that point. Oof.

For reference the code it have me was P0741 torque converter clutch circuit performance / stuck off.

I felt no issues while driving, and overdrive still worked. It was driving great really.. hoping just a happen stance ? I do keep loading new tunes and reseting codes a lot.
 






The tcc solenoid is having issues easy enough to replace/test check you can even ohm the solenoid from outside the transmission
 






The tcc solenoid is having issues easy enough to replace/test check you can even ohm the solenoid from outside the transmission

Out of curiosity, is it the part that you have to remove the shift selector to get to? Would be the only part I did not replace while I had it open.

It has not flashed at me again. Drove a solid hour yesterday and today another hour. Everything felt fine, only code now is the egr insufficient flow. And I’m wondering if my pinched egr tube is the cause.

How dumb would I be to try and torch those thing while it’s hooked up to unbend ? I would disconnect the rubber hoses.. otherwise I will have to wait tell after the trip to get it out bad re-bend that way.

Would this reduce flow enough?

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Edit: upon further inspection my PCV valve was completely out. Reset the codes with that back on and all other hoses / evap parts I know of all checked and connected. My Mpg was staying at 18~ for highway hoping this brings it up more once egr functions properly.
 






"Never give up" is a good cool attitude towards an older rig. My rig, at times and on purpose throws something else at me once I get a fix completed! I sweet talk her, scratch her under the fenders, realize her age and try to complete the next fix.
 






"Never give up" is a good cool attitude towards an older rig. My rig, at times and on purpose throws something else at me once I get a fix completed! I sweet talk her, scratch her under the fenders, realize her age and try to complete the next fix.
Haha mine definitely gets pats and rubs on the dash. Mostly when I can tell the rigs happy, or after long trips, but also when it has made it through when I know it could have thrown in the towel too. My car has an energy to it for sure.
 






Swapped out the actuator for the blend door. Donor vehicle had a new one in it was missing the back screw made it an easy removal !

But when I plugged it in to test before pulling mine out. It didn’t move..

Fuse is good, tester not showing power. So from reading around on here next suspect was EATC and since the donor had a new working actuator I bet his controller module was working too. So I ripped that out and swapped those too. Welp I don’t have cold a/c but I do have the ability to switch between hot and cold again!

I tried recharging the A/C and it was coldish at first but my blend door always had issues and then was stuck on hot. So I was hoping the recharged a/c would have been good once these go fixed. Going to grab another couple recharge bottles and see if I have a a/c leak somewhere possibly. But even having a somewhat cool air vs hot is an improvement for now lol.

I also have gotten the best gas mileage I have ever seen with my current tire size. So overall beast is happy.

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Going to grab another couple recharge bottles and see if I have a a/c leak somewhere possibly. But even having a somewhat cool air vs hot is an improvement for now lol.
If you disconnected the refrigerant lines at any point, you'll want to make sure its internally dry and pull the system down to vacuum before putting refrigerant in. Moisture will react with the refrigerant and produce hydrochloric acid in the lines otherwise. This is the sort of thing you may want an A/C shop to do.
 






If you disconnected the refrigerant lines at any point, you'll want to make sure its internally dry and pull the system down to vacuum before putting refrigerant in. Moisture will react with the refrigerant and produce hydrochloric acid in the lines otherwise. This is the sort of thing you may want an A/C shop to do.
But they charge me labor!

So if I say, just added more PAG 46 without actually purging first how bad this gonna be for a road trip?

The first time I tried to recharge it was 2 weeks ago. It held pressure to about 30-50psi took the 28-32oz of Freon I had. But the condenser would never stay on it would spin for a few seconds and shut back off.

This time I cracked open the lines at the canister and added about 6oz of the PAG46 and then 28~ oz of Freon. Ac pump stays on full time now and blows nice and cold. But I definitely never reversed vacuumed the system or purged it.. I just let all the active pressure off before starting.. right now I’m hoping it holds pressure and doesn’t have a leak somewhere. It’s working better than ever, got nice and cold. But now wondering if I should just take it to an a/c place. During operating the pressure sat at 35-40 range. After system shut off it was at 92~ and then I checked it again it’s up to 100. I have no idea if that’s a good or bad thing just want to see if it loses pressure.

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Edit: holding at 130~ now

So I went to take the gauge off for the night to check again in the morning. It had not lost any pressure. Then I found the leak is in the low side Schroeder Schader? Valve filler. It doesn’t look removable without letting all the pressure back off. I’m probably going to just use a push fitting like on the end of the filler with a cap for now.. otherwise holding pressure. Maybe I come up with a pressure gauge setup attached full time just for shoots and giggles and then it’s a cap for the line without taking the pressure off.
 



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But they charge me labor!

So if I say, just added more PAG 46 without actually purging first how bad this gonna be for a road trip?

The first time I tried to recharge it was 2 weeks ago. It held pressure to about 30-50psi took the 28-32oz of Freon I had. But the condenser would never stay on it would spin for a few seconds and shut back off.

This time I cracked open the lines at the canister and added about 6oz of the PAG46 and then 28~ oz of Freon. Confessor stays on full time now and blows nice and cold. But I definitely never reversed vacuumed the system or purged it.. I just let all the active pressure off before starting.. right now I’m hoping it holds pressure and doesn’t have a leak somewhere. It’s working better than ever, got nice and cold. But now wondering if I should just take it to an a/c place. During operating the pressure sat at 35-40 range. After system shut off it was at 92~ and then I checked it again it’s up to 100. I have no idea if that’s a good or bad thing just want to see if it loses pressure.

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If there was no moisture in the lines you might be okay, but pulling a vacuum using a vacuum pump would remove the residual air so there was nothing but refrigerant in there. Would make your system blow colder.
 






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