5.0L swap "done" now time for an engine build...

[JoshT]

Well I basically got the 5.0L AWD engine swap done on the 99 Ranger. Mostly good, got a recurring 02 sensor code. I don;t recall the codes for certain, but they were both for bank 2 sensor 1. Memory is telling me that one was for the heater circuit, the other was lean condition. It was over a week ago that I checked them and I've got a bigger problems that means I don't care about them.

Turns out that my good engine wasn't as good as I thought. With 10w-30 oil, my cold idle is 44 PSI, and when at operating temp I'm only running about 10 PSI per 1000 RPM. Will it survive? Yes, for a little while and I'm going to put in thicker oil to bandaid it for a bit. It ain;t right though and isn't going to stay that way for long if I can help it.

I do have another engine and it might be in better shape, but as far as I know both had 180k miles on them. I'm not taking a chance and will be rebuilding the spare engine before it goes in. Until I know more about the condition of the parts, the plan is to go with a stock style rebuild on the bottom end with a camshaft upgrade.

Not exactly sure what I'm going to do on the top end. I would like to stick with the GT-40P heads, both for style and since I already have the headers for them. I'm not chasing dyno numbers and I don't care about track times, just after a fun street truck that can serve as a daily driver. Not sure if these heads will do well enough to get that fun factor though.

My plan is to install a set of stock GT-40Ps with upgraded springs. I'll work on a DIY porting job on the other set of heads to swap in later. My concern is that either I'll damage the heads in the DIY porting attempt or will not be satisfied with the results.

I'm not entirely against going to aftermarket heads, but not in the budget for right now. Would the Torque Monster style headers work with aftermarket style heads, or is it going to make the plugs a PITA? Would the small 1.5" primaries and 2.25" collectors choke the aftermarket heads? If I need to get something different, is there something off the shelf that works with aftermarket heads and and the AWD chassis?

As I figure out more about what need and what I'm working with, I'll post more. Might start tearing the engine down in the next week, right now I'm trying to find a decent machine shop in my area, and possibly someone to do some porting work. For financial reasons I doubt I'll be using a porter for these heads, but I'm going to need to find one for a 2.3 head in the future, so might as well start looking.

 

[410Fortune]

Pics or it didn’t happen!

Lol lol nice work! 5.0 99 ranger for the win!!

The tmh will work with aftermarket heads yes

You can do a pretty good port and polish yourself there is plenty of info out there on this and the gt40p heads

Sounds like a really good plan! I would however fix the 02 sensor codes so the conversion can be complete the last thing you want it a lean or rich condition on your new rebuild

 

[JoshT]

Pics or it didn’t happen!

Lol lol nice work! 5.0 99 ranger for the win!!

The tmh will work with aftermarket heads yes

You can do a pretty good port and polish yourself there is plenty of info out there on this and the gt40p heads

Sounds like a really good plan! I would however fix the 02 sensor codes so the conversion can be complete the last thing you want it a lean or rich condition on your new rebuild

I'm not much of a picture taker, but here's one with the engine in the bay.

I may have fixed the code already. The code appeared when I drove it around the block with a broken vacuum tube a few weeks ago. The small one that goes from the intake to the EVAP purge valve IIRC. I patched it and cleared the code, but It came right back. Didn't have an O2 problem before that. Over the weekend I installed an complete replacement vacuum tube assembly from another Explorer, but I didn't have a scanner handy to clear the codes and haven't driven it enough since for it to clear itself.

If that didn't work I'm probably replacing the sensor next. I know that isn't usually the cause, but as far as I know that one has 180k+ miles on it.

 

[410Fortune]

Post up the actual codes when you get them! It could be the 02 sensors not plugged into the correct wires? Been there done that!

 

[Josh P]

Beautiful engine bay.

 

[TribeZ]

Intake looks great. I’m excited to clean mine up. I want to get it painted red or black too .

I did some reading and I don’t think I’m going to waste much time porting. I won’t be tearing the bottom end out of my truck again anytime soon. My plan is just to clean up and baking soda blast the intake elbow and upper. And then add the 1” spacer I seen in the write ups.

Would love to see what you do with the second engine. I also have a second block is my original motor. It’s in bad shape though. I overheated that block literally 40+ times in 10 years. Most recently it was for 3-4 hours of driving all overheating. My poor wife and kid driving it with windows down and vents on lol. So idk if that block will hold well but will be fun to tear down either way.

 

[JoshT]

Post up the actual codes when you get them! It could be the 02 sensors not plugged into the correct wires? Been there done that!

I'm almost certain that they were P0151 and P0155. Definitely bank 2 sensor 1. One was lean condition and the other was heater circuit malfunction IIRC. I'll verify when I get home if I have a chance.

Beautiful engine bay.

It's dirty, but that V8 intake sure does make it look better.

Intake looks great. I’m excited to clean mine up. I want to get it painted red or black too .

I did some reading and I don’t think I’m going to waste much time porting. I won’t be tearing the bottom end out of my truck again anytime soon. My plan is just to clean up and baking soda blast the intake elbow and upper. And then add the 1” spacer I seen in the write ups.

Would love to see what you do with the second engine. I also have a second block is my original motor. It’s in bad shape though. I overheated that block literally 40+ times in 10 years. Most recently it was for 3-4 hours of driving all overheating. My poor wife and kid driving it with windows down and vents on lol. So idk if that block will hold well but will be fun to tear down either way.

Amazing what some aluminum paint does. I scrubbed it down and hit it with media blaster, but wasn't really happy with the finish. Some Duplicolor aluminum paint got it to what you see. I thought about black, but I'm aiming for a factory appearance and those intakes were aluminum colored from the factory, probably anodized. For the cleaning, I tried using soda, it did clean, but didn't cut the way I wanted and still showed stains. I ended up using black diamond coal slag, it cleaned good and left a good surface for painting. The other intake I'll probably have the machine shop clean along with the rest of the engine.

Believe me I don't want to be tearing the bottom end out. I thought I used the better of the two engines I have. Turns out it wasn't as good as I thought, and I highly doubt the other is any better. I know I'm not going through all that work just to take the chance, so it's getting rebuilt first

5.0s and iron blocks in general are pretty tough. The block is probably serviceable, but the heads might need some work. You won't know for sure until you dig in and get it inspected.

 

[410Fortune]

The 96-97 non p head intake was painted battleship grey
The 98-01 intakes were just bare cast aluminum

A compression test would really help when looking to determine the health of the engines.

 

[JoshT]

The 96-97 non p head intake was painted battleship grey
The 98-01 intakes were just bare cast aluminum

Well mine are from a 1998 and a 2000, so they would have been bare aluminum.

 

[JoshT]

Post up the actual codes when you get them! It could be the 02 sensors not plugged into the correct wires? Been there done that!

P0155 and P1151

Bank 2 Sensor 1 is left front and it's the only one that plugs in on that side of the transmission. I don't think it's the O2 sensor wires, I put a buncha couple hundred miles on it between getting it drivable and the time this code appeared. More then enough cycles to set the code a few times over. Just appeared in conjunction with that broken vacuum line. Still didn't clear them yet, will probably be Friday before I drive the truck again. Too much running around to do tomorrow.

 

[Blown]

Awesome, Who wouldn't want a V8 Ranger...........the power to weight ratio has got to be sweet!!!

 

[JoshT]

Awesome, Who wouldn't want a V8 Ranger...........the power to weight ratio has got to be sweet!!!

Right now it's not what I expected, but I think there are a lot of contributing factors to that.

1) Since I changed from locking hubs and part time 4wd to live axles (always locked) and AWD, the steering feels a fair bit heavier. Not sure how much of that is the live axle and how much is the AWD. I expect it to get better as I adjust to the new feel, plus lowering and better handling wheel/tire package is in the plans.

2) The 4.0L felt more rev happy. I'm not going to say it was stronger but it downshifted and revved like crazy when you mashed the gas, SOTP also felt like it was doing more. For one of I mashed the gas in the 4.0 hard under the right conditions the axle would wrap and the tires spin, it doesn't do that now. That said, part of wanting the AWD was traction off the line, and the 5.0 still out accelerates it. I think the difference is a combination of AWD changing how the truck responds, with the some tuning, and probably a shift kit or J-mod.

3) The engine doesn't seem to have quite the power I expected for a 5.0L V8. See number two. Most likely is related to the engine being more worn than I thought. I may also be choking it some with the exhaust. I have the headers going into factory cat pipes, that go into a dual in, single out 2.5" Magnaflow muffler. I suspect that the cats may be partially clogged due to their environment prior to use. At some point in the near future, after suspension work is done, I intend to take the truck to a custom exhaust shop and have a full exhaust system addressed. I want it dual exit at rear of truck and I want the forward section tucked under the truck better. Will probably stick with 2.5" pipes since header outlet is only 2.25", but will get rid of the smaller stuff in the forward section of the system with some high flow cats (maybe).

Sorry if that rambled and carried on too long. I'vr started and stopped typing it since about 3 pm, so not exactly sure what all I said and too tired to proof read it right now.

 

[Josh P]

How soon will you be adding boost to this project?

 

[JoshT]

How soon will you be adding boost to this project?

I don't have blown in my name, so most likely never.

There is an 85 Ranger waiting in the wings with a 2.3L. It might get a hair dryer if I ever get around to working on it.

 

[410Fortune]

The sohc makes v8 power and has a 5 speed auto, plus with the now live axle… it’s going to change the truck for sure

Your awd is robbing the power and is causing the heavy front steering for sure
But you are awd v8! Sky is the limit now

You won’t be blowing up transmissions or replacing timing components!

For sure ditch the factory exhaust bits down the road

 

[JoshT]

The sohc makes v8 power and has a 5 speed auto, plus with the now live axle… it’s going to change the truck for sure

Your awd is robbing the power and is causing the heavy front steering for sure
But you are awd v8! Sky is the limit now

You won’t be blowing up transmissions or replacing timing components!

For sure ditch the factory exhaust bits down the road

I had the OHV, not SOHC. If I had the SOHC, I probably would have kept that and slapped a Modbox on it.

Exhaust is definitely getting changed again after I get my ride height set right. Need/want to get the engine right before I do that.

 

[TribeZ]

I think overall AWD is better platform.

I love my RWD for the hot rod feel. I have no issues spinning my tires now anytime I drop into first gear.

But when I got to drive the AWD before taking the motor out, it grabbed the road so well. Like in a straight line my 2wd will win. Add in any corners or turns and I would not keep up with an AWD I bet.

 

[JoshT]

Post up the actual codes when you get them!

Can add P0174 to the list, it just appeared to day.

• P0155 02 Heater Circuit (Bank 2, Sensor 1)
• P1151 Lack of HO2S21 Switches - Sensor Indicates Lean
• P0174 System Too Lean (Bank 2)

Problem with doing much diagnostics is that, beyond a vacuum leak or O2 sensor, most of it would be wasted effort that will be replaced as soon as the new engine is ready. I don't have an exhaust leak. I've checked the intake tract but a problem there should affect both sides anyway. It could be lower intake leak or an injector. I'm not going to try resealing the lower when I'm going to replace the engine in a couple months. Fresh build is going to get all new injectors, possibly upgraded with some tuning.

Add in any corners or turns and I would not keep up with an AWD I bet.

That's why I wanted to do the AWD with lowering it and better handling wheel/tire package.

 

[JoshT]

OK this is getting annoying. I need to figure out the lean condition before I delve further into what needs to be fixed with other stuff. I haven't jumped to replacing the sensor yet, but I don't have a problem doing so to see what happens. I'm guessing I should put a little more effort into the diagnosing first though.

Every (gasoline) engine requires Fuel, Air, and Spark. Too little fuel could cause lean condition. Too much air could cause a lean condition. I don't see any way that spark could cause a lean condition, only a rich condition if it isn't happening.

Causes of too little fuel... Inadequate fuel supply or pressure, but that should affect both banks, not just one. Dirty/inop fuel injector, they all had a good spray pattern a few weeks ago and have only gotten clean fuel since. Is there a good way to check for a faulty fuel injector without pulling the upper intake? Only way I can come up with is swapping the injectors side to side and seeing what happens. Disconnecting one at a time would be great, but can't exactly get at the plugs under the plenum.

Causes of too much air, a leak obviously. Off hand the fact that this is only affecting bank 2 rules out everything forward of the upper plenum in the intake tract. Anything between the MAF and upper plenum would affect both banks. what ever is causing it is past that. It would almost have to be in the lower intake where it's already individual runners. Either a vacuum leak in the middle of the plenum, or between the intake and head. I suppose that there could be a leak on the exhaust side, but I've got remflex gaskets in there so I know it isn't the head to header flange and I haven't seen signs of the collector leaking.

Is there any way that low oil pressure could be causing the lean condition? This engine is about shot with only 10 psi per 1000 RPM, I've tried both 10W-30 and 20W-50 with the same results. Rebuild is in the works, but if this lean condition is a electrical, sensor, or fuel issue, I'd like to correct it before putting the new engine in. If it's an air leak, I'm as likely to fix it as I am to create a new one during the switch over.

 

[410Fortune]

Your thinking is correct!
The next step would be to watch live data and look at the 02 sensors switching and fuel trims
Maybe a clue in there

The codes “lack of switching” usually points to a lazy 02 sensor it is not responding as the pcm was expecting it to

Make sure you have them plugged in correctly it is easy to switch the wires to the bank 1 side 02 sensors

Is a lean code for the other bank still pending? Another good thing to check

You clear the code how long before it comes back?



stuff happens and it can happen during install especially. A couple of times I have seen something in the fuel rail plug the backside of an injector



Keep up the good work
It’s not going to be oil or spark
In my experience lean on one bank is usually injector related or a big air leak, but the air leak would be in the effected bank somewhere before the 02 sensor lol usually pretty easy to spot but don’t overlook the egr if the lean condition is on bank 1

The computer seems to be telling you there is a problem with the oxygen sensor(s) I would start there… check your work!