1998 Explorer 5.0 “Restoration2021” project

[SuperGordo]

Spent a bunch of my daughters money today!

 

[410Fortune]

Better than jewelry!!

 

[SuperGordo]

Better than jewelry!!

Indeed!

 

[SuperGordo]

Got about 30% of the transmission built. The reverse drum, forward drum and direct drum are done, i installed the output carrier with the output shaft and the direct drum today. Topped it off with the planetary gear assembly, the reverse band and the sun gear and sun shell. Ill see what else i can get done tomorrow. I still need to rebuild the pump assembly, as well need to press in the new tailshaft bushing into the housing. As well need to clean the valve body. But its coming along.

 

[CDW6212R]

Question, what do you do to rebuild the pump? I've had them apart before but never did anything, every unit I've rebuilt has had under 100k miles.

Also, what's the current rule of thumb for clutch clearances, .010" per clutch? That's where I've set them on the 5-6 I've put together. I wonder what the 6R80 takes for typical procedures, I plan to find and dig into one later?

 

[SuperGordo]

Question, what do you do to rebuild the pump? I've had them apart before but never did anything, every unit I've rebuilt has had under 100k miles.

Also, what's the current rule of thumb for clutch clearances, .010" per clutch? That's where I've set them on the 5-6 I've put together. I wonder what the 6R80 takes for typical procedures, I plan to find and dig into one later?

For the pump I always replace the bronze bushing behind the converter seal, the converter seal, I check the pump gears for wear, replace the metal sealing rings on the stator support and the large O ring that goes around the pump housing. There is a bronze bushing on the inside end of the stator support. I measure those because they rarely have any wear on them. So if its the same as a new one, I leave it alone.
As far as clearances go I always look at the rebuild book. However even the guy who trained me on transmission rebuilds told me the minimum clutch clearances are .005-.010 per friction.

I actually have a 6R80 here. I'm getting ready to make a short video doing an external comparison of the 4r70w and the 6R80. I've posted on YouTube and Rumble several how to videos for 89-97 Thunderbird/Cougars. The topic of swapping to the 6R80 gets discussed often. So I'm planning recording some work on them.

 

[SuperGordo]

I finished drilling the valve body separator plate for the Jmod. Finished the pump. Installed the Sonnax main pressure regulator valve in the VB. Tailshaft housing and a new bushing, seal and o ring on the speed sensor cap. I need to pickup a spiral snap ring for the reverse drum tomorrow. Once that is installed I can assemble the rest of the internals. Just need some more personal time.

 

[CDW6212R]

For the pump I always replace the bronze bushing behind the converter seal, the converter seal, I check the pump gears for wear, replace the metal sealing rings on the stator support and the large O ring that goes around the pump housing. There is a bronze bushing on the inside end of the stator support. I measure those because they rarely have any wear on them. So if its the same as a new one, I leave it alone.
As far as clearances go I always look at the rebuild book. However even the guy who trained me on transmission rebuilds told me the minimum clutch clearances are .005-.010 per friction.

I actually have a 6R80 here. I'm getting ready to make a short video doing an external comparison of the 4r70w and the 6R80. I've posted on YouTube and Rumble several how to videos for 89-97 Thunderbird/Cougars. The topic of swapping to the 6R80 gets discussed often. So I'm planning recording some work on them.

What engine are those 89-97 Thunderbird/Cougars using to want the 6R80? I ask because my plan is to use one behind my 302, in my 98 limited. I discovered last year the slight differences of the blocks and trans bell housing.

Look at this picture carefully, this shows the interference of bolting a SBF to the 6R80, without any modifications. I saw in this that the real problem is the one block hole on the SBF, it is where the three bolt starter goes in all modular V8's. I plan to cut off that one hole from the block, then bolt on the 6R80 with no odd parts(no adapter). The two dowel holes have to be used for bell housing bolts, so those must be carefully threaded.

 

[SuperGordo]

What engine are those 89-97 Thunderbird/Cougars using to want the 6R80? I ask because my plan is to use one behind my 302, in my 98 limited. I discovered last year the slight differences of the blocks and trans bell housing.

Look at this picture carefully, this shows the interference of bolting a SBF to the 6R80, without any modifications. I saw in this that the real problem is the one block hole on the SBF, it is where the three bolt starter goes in all modular V8's. I plan to cut off that one hole from the block, then bolt on the 6R80 with no odd parts(no adapter). The two dowel holes have to be used for bell housing bolts, so those must be carefully threaded.
View attachment 451456

Well to be clear I personally am not looking to swap a 6r80. But the guys who are pondering this all have 4.6 Modulars. So they have the same bellhousing pattern. 89-93 Tbird cougars would have either 3.8V6, or 5.0V8. 94-97 had 3.8V6 or 4.6 V8 as options.

 

[CDW6212R]

That's what I meant, the engines changed over those years, and I figured you were doing the trans rebuild. I've wondered why so many people have been okay with the expensive adapter kits, and the extensions to the torque converter studs. That's weak, and all of that is just because of the block interference. I'm going to do fine with just five bolts in my street vehicle. The 6R80 is a whole level better than the older transmissions, though it is much more expensive to build. I hope you enjoy going through that trans, and get a ride in the car when done.

 

[SuperGordo]

That's what I meant, the engines changed over those years, and I figured you were doing the trans rebuild. I've wondered why so many people have been okay with the expensive adapter kits, and the extensions to the torque converter studs. That's weak, and all of that is just because of the block interference. I'm going to do fine with just five bolts in my street vehicle. The 6R80 is a whole level better than the older transmissions, though it is much more expensive to build. I hope you enjoy going through that trans, and get a ride in the car when done.

Well luckily I get to drive the EX first!!

 

[SuperGordo]

That's what I meant, the engines changed over those years, and I figured you were doing the trans rebuild. I've wondered why so many people have been okay with the expensive adapter kits, and the extensions to the torque converter studs. That's weak, and all of that is just because of the block interference. I'm going to do fine with just five bolts in my street vehicle. The 6R80 is a whole level better than the older transmissions, though it is much more expensive to build. I hope you enjoy going through that trans, and get a ride in the car when done.

I think most people use adapter kits for the ease of install. Someone did the work already. Or they're afraid to do what you are planning or don't possess enough knowledge to skill to attempt it.

 

[SuperGordo]

Got all the internals assembled and the pump installed. Valve body is ready to go in. Pretty close to done with the trans.

 

[SuperGordo]

 

[SuperGordo]

The dumb thing going on now is this. The “new” used engine is a 1999. The old engine is a early 1998. The new engine has the cast iron exhaust manifolds. I want to use the cast iron units for reliability. Somehow in 6 months i cant figure out where the left side cast manifold is… jeez o petes…

 

[SuperGordo]

The dumb thing going on now is this. The “new” used engine is a 1999. The old engine is a early 1998. The new engine has the cast iron exhaust manifolds. I want to use the cast iron units for reliability. Somehow in 6 months i cant figure out where the left side cast manifold is… jeez o petes…

Nevermind. Did some old fashioned garage detective work AKA move some crap around… it was almost directly below the new engine. Hey, I’m an optimist. At least i cleaned up some crap.

 

[SuperGordo]

Far as the engine goes. I need to install the exhaust manifolds, flywheel and the spacer between the block and the flywheel. Then mate the trans to it. I need to install the trans mount and a few small items removed from the outside of the trans and then I can stab the engine/trans combo back in. Lets hope for Sunday!

 

[410Fortune]

Dropping 5.0 and trans in together is an interesting thing you will need to get them at an extreme angle to glide them in together
It is a very tight fit best done with two people
The crank damper will have to be removed and the trans mount and starter cannot be in place or it won’t fit
I also tape Cardboard over the radiator support because it will be in the way

I have done it a few times bolting then in together it is not easy

 

[SuperGordo]

Dropping 5.0 and trans in together is an interesting thing you will need to get them at an extreme angle to glide them in together
It is a very tight fit best done with two people
The crank damper will have to be removed and the trans mount and starter cannot be in place or it won’t fit
I also tape Cardboard over the radiator support because it will be in the way

I have done it a few times bolting then in together it is not easy

Good advice. I took it out together and the angle was definitely extreme. I have a nice engine leveler that helps. We will see how going back in goes.

 

[SuperGordo]

If the transmission wasn't an unknown factor and definitely leaking then I may have only done the engine. But I had no knowledge of the trans and never messed with it back in 2021. So considering the engine had to happen it just makes sense to take it out and overhaul it at this time.