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I thought about that and was about to do so, but the bolt is behind the exhaust header at this point and is a bit long to clear before fully unthreading.

Thanks! If you look close up it's not the best paint job, but it will at least keep the aluminum covers from oxidizing. I hit the exhaust headers with the same VHT paint to keep them from rusting too.

Is that for the '99 sohc or the '04 sohc? I thought the FL-1A was for the '99? The block donor was an '04 explorer.

So here I am, almost done, and about to put fluids in so I can start her up. Ford has used #8 filters on their light trucks for decades. My dad's '72 F250, all of our explorers, all ph8/s8 etc. Go to put on this brand new S8 oil filter, and it doesn't fit. Apparently '04 explorers, which my new...

If there was no moisture in the lines you might be okay, but pulling a vacuum using a vacuum pump would remove the residual air so there was nothing but refrigerant in there. Would make your system blow colder.

If you disconnected the refrigerant lines at any point, you'll want to make sure its internally dry and pull the system down to vacuum before putting refrigerant in. Moisture will react with the refrigerant and produce hydrochloric acid in the lines otherwise. This is the sort of thing you may...

Man! Those are the exact wheels I've been wanting to get for my '98 sport for almost as long as I've owned it! Nice choice. They look good on these rigs.

My first explorer is a stick 2-door. And I often knee-drove with it, but usually because I was eating lunch on my way to the next service call.

Check out Heater Treater. They make metal replacement blend doors to replace the plastic factory door. I have them in two of my Explorers. https://heatertreater.net/ford-explorer-95-02

I've read that drilled rotors tend to crack starting at the holes. Not sure if the slots would cause a similar issue.

I forgot about the wireless versions. I got the USB version and running FORScan on my machine.

That's super weird. Might need to leave the cable off for longer. Do you have anything in there that could be storing a charge, like capacitors for a big sound system or something? If the codes are gone when you first reconnect and start, then appear after a few seconds or a minute, then it's...

Disconnecting either positive or negative would do it. (I recommend the negative just because it won't hurt anything if the tool you're using to loosen it touches anything else inside the engine bay). Leave the cable disconnected for about 30 minutes, as a quick disco/reco will not clear codes.

I'm hoping it is just for balancing the plate itself. There were no key ways or guide marks indicating it should only go on a certain way.

I guess we will find out when I try driving it!

The plates match in size, TC holes, and tooth count. Near as I can tell it is the same flex plate just with extra holes.

My other flex plates look like seawater specials. This engine came out of an '04 explorer, and the flex plates match except for these six holes.

I just noticed this flex plate has a half-dozen holes on one side. My other flex plates don't have this. This is the plate that came with the new block, so I'm wondering if the holes are balanced for the plate only or if it's particular to this engine. Does it need to go on a certain way?

Also, does anyone know what this connector is for? It's just plugged into a plastic clip with no contacts.

With any luck the engine will go in this weekend. Forecast says rain tonight into tomorrow, so I'm on hold for a bit. Got the engine bay prepped and everything laid out where it needs to be.

I've read a few threads here and know it can be done, but it looks to be a fair bit of work. I'll probably only do it if I can mate a manual transmission to the 5.0.

I love them. That's my wife's 97 XLT, my 98 Sport, working on the 99 Limited. Then there's this poor old girl that was the unfortunate victim of a broadside that we think bent the frame as the steering column inside is canted sideways. 98 EB. It was donated to us as a parts truck, and has a 5.0...

And once she's done, these two OHV's are next. They both start and run, just not well.

Little peek at the paint on this one. She needs a bath though.

When I bought the block it had already had the timing cassettes replaced and timed. That was part of the motivation for buying this one (and the old block looking like wreckage from the Titanic). It's also why this block was nearly $2k to purchase.