2005 Sport Trac XLT Installing 4 new KYB gas adjust shocks | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2005 Sport Trac XLT Installing 4 new KYB gas adjust shocks

smalltownusa

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February 14, 2016
Messages
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City, State
Western Maine
Year, Model & Trim Level
2005 Sport Trac XLT 4WD
Got my order from RockAuto in 2 days can't beat that!.

I took off all my shocks without removing any wheels or jacking up the Sport Trac.

Just wanted to as ask a couple of newbie questions, before I start wrenching the new ones on.

Searching the forum I read that shocks should be cycled up and down a number of times before install.

Those posts were a little dated so I ask it that still the case with these KYB gas adjust shocks? I am just a little leery cutting the nylon straps before installing worrying I would not be able to compress them to install.

Should I put some never seize or/and some lock tight on all the threads?
Lastly on the rear shocks upper nuts that were so hard to remove is it ok to install the new hardware with the nuts on the bottom to hopefully make any future removal easier?
 



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I had replaced all my shocks this month, I hadn't cycled them. If you goto youtube.com and search, you can find a wealth of information on installing shocks. Now as you mentioned about putting the bolt on the rear shocks and putting the nuts on the bottom, on my truck I couldn't do that, I didn't have the clearance between the cross member and the bed of the truck. if you hadn't gotten any ratchet wrenches, I suggest getting some, makes installation easier.
 






Oh, I wouldn't put never seize or lock tight on the treads of the bolts.
 






KaunBndit thanks been looking at youtube as you suggested. A little bite to eat and I'll start my shock install.

I thought I could reverse the hardware on the rear top shocks. I take another look when I hit the garage.
 






Smalltownusa, if you can do it, yeah, I think it would be great! I tried and didn't have enough room to put the bolt from the top in the hole. Good luck!
 






Did install the front passenger side shock. Wanted to start the engine and turn the tires in the opposite direction, but my battery was dead. So it's on the charger for the night.

I uncompressed the shock, but there was no easy way for me to reach in to compress it while fitting in place:thumbdwn:. I found it easier to leave the nylon strap on the compressed shock until I put the bottom in place.
The rears will go quick so I should be done with shocks tomorrow. A quick trip to buy some new speed nuts, and reinstall the vapor canister.

Crawling underneath, I was able to insert the bolts that came with the KYB shocks down through upper rear mounts. So I will install the nuts on the underside. After tightening the bolts I am going to spray paint them to help ward off corrosion. Not sure how much good it will do with all the road salt, but couldn't hurt.

Next after the shocks will be to drop the front stabilizer, paint it, and install the new bushings, and end links. Feels good to be getting something done even if I am slow. Then I'll remove the wheels to see how my brakes look.
 






IT's great to hear that you were able to do that to the top of your rear shocks! Post some pictures when you have some time!
 






Well the (old) newbie got all the shocks installed. Just a small hitch: my repair manual I have been using is for 2002 to 2010 Ford Explorers. I only realized while shopping for parts that there is a separate manual that is meant for Sport Tracs.

I thought being a newbie that the shock torque specs would be the same. The listed torque for the shocks are:
Front upper 22 Ft-Lbs lower 258 (I thought this was a typo reversing the lower and upper Torques).
Rear upper 22 Ft-Lbs lower 184

The front uppers I was unable to get my torque wrench in there so I tightened the nut until the bushing was the same width as the large washer

The rear upper no problem, however I started tightening the rear lower to the specs I had, and realized something was wrong: it seemed way to tight.
Thought it might have been my shiny new torque wrench, but my nephew informed me that it must have been inch pounds I was looking at, and I should torque based on the bolt shaft size in this case ~50 Ft-Lbs. Later I checked and 184 inch Lbs is no where 50Ft-Lbs. So that's not it.

I double checked, and my Haynes manual does say 184Ft-Lbs and 258.
I guess I need to get the proper repair manual. Still knowing what little I do those are still misprints or really high torque amounts. I think I am reading the manual correctly.

Also removed the front stabilizer end links, and then the whole stabilizer bar. While it's out I did a quick paint job, and ready to reinstall with all new parts tomorrow. Then reinstall vapor canister, bought the speed nuts, and then start looking at the breaks.

Reversing the bolts on the rear uppers seemed to work out well. There is enough room now to seat a 13mm box end wrench up top.

P.S. I have a flash code 42 on my dash. As far as I understand it there is a good chance the front impact crash sensor is defective. I will disconnect the battery before removing the sensor, but is there any way to put a multi meter on the sensor to test it. Otherwise I am going to gamble and replace it.
 












swshawaii thanks for the links. Helps a lot.
 






Wrapped up working on the underside rear when I reinstalled the vapor canister assembly. Went up much easier than I had thought: with only two hoses and one connector. Decide to paint the new Moog end link metal parts black so one more day to install those, and the stabilizer bar.

Thanks everybody for the help.
swshawii that last link is a great link mahalo nui loa !

P.S. Next thread working on brakes starting tomorrow.
 






Great postings smalltownusa, I can't wait to read the posts from you doing your brakes. Pictures please. LoLoLoL I will start with my body bushings toward the end of the week or beginning of this weekend, I need to get one of those small torches and I think while I am out to get one of those big vice grip. I don't have one of those.
 






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