Engine Keeps Running After Ignition Switch is Cutoff

[randy page]

I disconnected my battery for a couple of weeks while on vacation to keep my battery from running down.
When I returned and hooked up the battery the engine fired up just fine.
When I cutoff the ignition the engine kept running. (Not Dieseling)
I disconnected the battery but the only way I could kill the engine was to attempt to engage the starter.

The ignition seems to work fine when the engine is not running. All the gauges work and shut off just fine until the engine starts.

I'm stumped on this one.

1997 Explorer SOHC

Thanks

 

[pj8847]

Try swapping the ECC relay out with another and see if it still happens. It's quite possible the relay is sticking in the "on" position, and that feeds not only the PCM and several other circuits, but the fuel pump as well, and if it's sticking on, turning the key off will have no effect...lol as the ignition and fuel delivery are being powered even though the key is off.

I'm only suggesting this as you already stated that all the gauges and lights function as they should when turning the key off and on, so that means the ignition switch appears to be working correctly.

 

[randy page]

Thanks for the reply.
Can you clue me in to the ECC relay?
After I turn the key off I've noticed it will run for about 3 min and then shut down.
Its got a mind of its own.

 

[Lloyd10977]

Check the OWNER"S GUIDE for '97 Explorer, page 154:
http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdirs/ownerlit/default_retail.asp?year=1997&vehCode=exp

 

[randy page]

Swapped out the ECC Relay and no change.
One more thought.
Before I left the power windows would work after I turned the ignition off and pulled out the key. Could this mean the ig swith is going bad?

Thanks for your help

 

[pj8847]

strange indeed, on most explorers, if not all, the windows will roll up/down without the key in the ignition after the ignition of course was turned on. As long as no doors/hatch was opened. if it's doing this with the doors open, then I think an inspection of the ig. switch is indeed needed.

It is possible that the "delay" feature that allows one to roll up the windows after the ignition is off is somehow feeding the "run" circuit, seeing that you stated it will run for about 3 mins after removing the key...lol ( i'd expect this behavior if you had a turbo, but that's not the case..heh heh )

If i'm correct, isn't the "GEM" responsible for this delay circuit? Possible backfeed of voltage through the ig. sw.? to early to think straight, waiting on my gallon of coffee....

:EDIT: Eureka! I had a thought, ( rare occurance ) just a theory really, before you go ripping the column apart. check the Diode/s ( can't remember, 1 or 2, on the 97, to early...) that is/are in the power dist. box. it is possible it/they could have gone bad and is allowing voltage to backfeed through the system. Like I said, just a theory, but a quick and painless check before undertaking the dismantling of the ig. sw.

 

[randy page]

I could really use some help on how to narrow down the problem and id the exact part that is bad.

It's tough getting Ford parts in Korea.

 

[randy page]

Found the problem.
An old security/keyless system someone installed in the past.
Just removed it and everything works great.

 

[pj8847]

Glad to see you found the problem.

In my marathon of being up several days straight, I never thought of an aftermarket alarm/remote start system being the culprit.

 

[randy page]

Hey, Thanks for helping with this one.
I see you have fogs installed and 31s on factory rims.
Any suggestion on completing those mods?

 

[pj8847]

As far as the fogs go, all I did was remove the factory ones and install a set of aftermarket housings. The housings themselves I modified to accept a different bulb of higher wattage, ( which I thought were 90 watt bulbs, turns out they are 100 watts, time to change sig. ) as well as the wiring was upgraded to prevent any chance of anything melting. I also made sure the housing was metal and the lenses were made of glass, as some aftermarket housings come with plastic for both, and that's no good when your running higher watage bulbs as the heat is a factor as to how long they will last.

The tires are fairly easy, all you have to do if you can is find a place where they will allow a test fit of whatever tires you would prefer, then you'll be able to see if your selection will work, and what will be needed as far as trimming or adjustment to the surrounding trim and suspension. Most explorers wil fit 31x10.5 without a problem, but every truck is different, as I could have fit 32.11.50's instead of my 31x11.50, without making any changes.

There is a wealth of knowledge on these forums on both of these topics, and I'm sure you'll not find a problem getting your answers and ideas from some of the posts that already exsist.

 

[randy page]

Thanks for the info and thanks for helping.
A forum like this is invaluable when your butt is in Korea.
Not a lot of American Suvs here to learn from.
See Ya