Finishing up "Drivers Side Valve Cover Gasket" change - I need to know torque for intake manifold bolts and valve cover bolts, thats it!

[San Hill]

Hi everybody. I'm slowly getting further along to changing my 'Valve Cover' gaskets. I can't get the EGR Valve tubing nut loose. I really don't wanna use penetrants. I've tried rocking the wrench back'n'forth on the nut. I'm not sure this produces any results, it hasn't for me just yet.

My questions are:
1) I only have a 27mm wrench atm which I am using as my tool on the nut. This is just a bit larger, I believe, than the SAE 1 1/4" wrench so the wrench bites the nut a bit loosely. Is this a dealbreaker and the reason I can't get this nut loose?
2) Also, I haven't tried gripping the tube itself with a pair of pliers from fear of hurting the tube. But if I'm gentle it might work. Is that an option?

3) I'm very curious if it's possible to remove just the bolts holding the EGR Valve to it's plating as a means to bypass detatching the tubing from the EGR Valve all together. I think the 2 nuts holding the EGR Valve bolts on the plating do not actually turn. Which is something I've never really seen in my life. So, only the bolts turn and not the nuts. Is this an accurate observation on this design?

 

[Blackhawkxx]

I really don't wanna use penetrants.

Why is that?

 

[San Hill]

Why is that?

Well, for starters the prices are, imho, very high, overpriced. Secondly, most of them are toxic. The ones with PTFE are very toxic to the body. Now, this is what I read since I can't confirm it personally through scientific experimentation. I'm just not that smart. So, to be on the safe side I just believe them.
Anyhoo, I stumbled across another thread with this similar issue so it seems I'm not the first one to get stuck in this same situation. Since I already own a blow torch I might try that along with the other suggestions in the similar thread.

 

[Rick]

Well, for starters the prices are, imho, very high, overpriced. Secondly, most of them are toxic. The ones with PTFE are very toxic to the body. Now, this is what I read since I can't confirm it personally through scientific experimentation. I'm just not that smart. So, to be on the safe side I just believe them.
Anyhoo, I stumbled across another thread with this similar issue so it seems I'm not the first one to get stuck in this same situation. Since I already own a blow torch I might try that along with the other suggestions in the similar thread.

Blow torch produces CO, you just can't win. LOL

 

[Bill MacLeod]

Mix acetone and atf 50/50 and soak the crap out of the nut threads. Let sit overnight, do it again. Buy a proper size wrench or use a pipe wrench with extension if needed. Heat from a propane torch may help also.

And if needed, place a rag underneath, wear an N95 mask and nitrile gloves. (Don't forget eye protection)

Hi temp anti seize on the threads prior to assembly.

 

[San Hill]

Blow torch produces CO, you just can't win. LOL

You're probably right about that. However, using a propane torch outside should mitigate some of the hazardous health effects. Although, I could do the same with a toxic penetrant by wearing nitrile gloves. So, that leads me back to my first point. I already own the propane torch and the penetrants are, imho, overpriced. And I honestly haven't even given it my best efforts in the area of brute-force and proper tools. I keep slow playing this but I guess it's all I know to do.

 

[San Hill]

Mix acetone and atf 50/50 and soak the crap out of the nut threads. Let sit overnight, do it again. Buy a proper size wrench or use a pipe wrench with extension if needed. Heat from a propane torch may help also.

And if needed, place a rag underneath, wear an N95 mask and nitrile gloves. (Don't forget eye protection)

Hi temp anti seize on the threads prior to assembly.

I posted a picture of the only wrench I've tried so far which is a 27mm. Is that not the proper wrench? Isn't 27mm equal to SAE 1 1/6" wrench? I mean, I can try a bigger wrench with more leverage. I'm sure that might get the job done here.

 

[donalds]

Why not use gloves

 

[San Hill]

Why not use gloves

View attachment 451865

No need too. It wasn't as bad as I had first imagined. The old #27 got the job done, sans penetrant:

I guess I'm just a punk who got lucky! I will not press my luck though. I think I'll replace the EGR Valve tubing nut and possibly the EGR valve itself. But definitely the nut.
Actually, I did wear glove as I always do, but they are cloth, not nitrile.

 

[San Hill]

I can't get the 6th torx bolt out that sits closest to the back of the engine area on the left row of bolts. I know that I need ratcheting functionality and swivel functionality. What is the tool I need to have both of those functionalities. A u-joint socket would only be good if I had the freedom to move the tool 180 degrees and then flip it 180 degrees back to the start. I feel like I've only got a range of motion of about 90 degrees on this last bolt and the tool is at about a 45 degree angle. A u-joint would allow that angle but I'm missing the ratcheting functionality. What is that tool called?

***** EDIT *****: Well, I found this link already and this looks exactly like the tool I need. I can raise the handle up/down for the 45 degree angle and it's actually a ratchet so I don't have to pull out and reset every quarter turn I make on the bolt.

Flexible Ratchet

Here is a picture of the 5th and 6th bolts on my intake manifold:

 

[swshawaii]

@San Hill

Why do you need any oversized 3/8" long handle ratchet? T-30 intake bolts are torqued to 89 INCH or 7-1/2 foot pounds.

IIRC, I used a 1/4" universal and wrapped blue tape to the T-27 and extension to prevent them coming off and losing them in the valley. Laying on top of the engine to access the rear bolt wasn't fun but I got it. Inch pound torque wrench highly recommended since the gasket compresses when tightening.

 

[San Hill]

@San Hill

Why do you need any oversized 3/8" long handle ratchet? T-30 intake bolts are torqued to 89 INCH or 7-1/2 foot pounds.

IIRC, I used a 1/4" universal and wrapped blue tape to the T-27 and extension to prevent them coming off and losing them in the valley. Laying on top of the engine to access the rear bolt wasn't fun but I got it. Inch pound torque wrench highly recommended since the gasket compresses when tightening.

I like what I'm hearing because I really don't wanna spend $60.00 to remove one bolt. But I can't say I fully understand what you're suggesting. Why did you use a T-27 at all for a T-30 torx bolt? I don't mind laying across the engine if I have too. I'm already elevating myself by standing on 2 rusty old brake drums to reach that far back.
So, my Dad does have a torque wrench that I'll have to ask for borrow and I'll take a picture of it and show you if it's what you're talking about. Can you please post a screenshot of the tool set up that you used so I can see it better. Again, I need both swivel and ratcheting functionality. At least, I think I do.
If you can post a screenshot of the tool set up you used that would be worth a thousand words, you know that, right?

I gotta say that $60 ratchet does look "dope" though.

All 6 torx bolts on the intake manifold, are in fact, T30 in size, just to confirm?

 

[swshawaii]

@San Hill

You will need an INCH pound torque wrench. Common wrench range is 40 to 200 INCH pounds. Most DIY'ers only have 3/8" drive foot pound torque wrenches that won't go down to 89 inch pounds or 7-1/2 foot pounds.

BTW, I guessed the T-27 Torx bolt size and edited my post with the correct T-30 size.

 

[San Hill]

@San Hill

You will need an INCH pound torque wrench. Common range is 40 to 200 INCH pounds. Most DIY'ers only have 3/8" drive foot pound torque wrenches that won't measure 89 inch pounds or an equivalent 7-12 foot pounds.

BTW, I guessed the T-27 Torx bolt size and edited my post with the correct T-30 size.

Okay, having just re-read your post, it sounds like you got this 6th bolt out using a straight tool with just the T30 torx bit. In other words, you didn't need the ratcheting maybe? I guess I could look at moving the hoses out of the way by disconnecting them. I haven't explored that route just yet.

 

[swshawaii]

4.0L SOHC engines are configured different. I'm certain your intake setup and plumbing is not the same as mine. If you have a 1/4" drive ratchet, long extension, and a T-30 Torx socket you should be able to get it. I did this years ago but remember taping the socket pieces together in case they came apart and wouldn't get lost in the dark intake valley. Got "wiggle" room by separating and holding hoses out of the way with nylon, bungee cord, or zip ties. Never hurts to have an extendable magnetic pick up tool just in case you drop something.

 

[Blackhawkxx]

I can't get the 6th torx bolt out that sits closest to the back of the engine area on the left row of bolts. I know that I need ratcheting functionality and swivel functionality. What is the tool I need to have both of those functionalities. A u-joint socket would only be good if I had the freedom to move the tool 180 degrees and then flip it 180 degrees back to the start. I feel like I've only got a range of motion of about 90 degrees on this last bolt and the tool is at about a 45 degree angle. A u-joint would allow that angle but I'm missing the ratcheting functionality. What is that tool called?

***** EDIT *****: Well, I found this link already and this looks exactly like the tool I need. I can raise the handle up/down for the 45 degree angle and it's actually a ratchet so I don't have to pull out and reset every quarter turn I make on the bolt.

Flexible Ratchet

Here is a picture of the 5th and 6th bolts on my intake manifold:
View attachment 451921

If you need a cheap flex ratchet that won't see much use, Harbor Freight has them for about $22.

3/8 in. Drive Flex Head Ratchet

Amazing deals on this 3/8In Dr Flex Head Ratchet at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

And Walmart has 1/4" Gear Drive for $26

Robot or human?

 

[San Hill]

If you need a cheap flex ratchet that won't see much use, Harbor Freight has them for about $22.

3/8 in. Drive Flex Head Ratchet

Amazing deals on this 3/8In Dr Flex Head Ratchet at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

And Walmart has 1/4" Gear Drive for $26

Robot or human?

That looks like a good deal to me. I'll give it all a better look tomorrow and see if I can get that bolt loose somehow without the flex ratchet. But this is definitely the tool to go for if I can't.
Thank You for the link!

 

[allmyEXes]

I recently bought a 26mm combo wrench to fill in the gap/s in my standard/metric choices. Is this a 4.0 SOHC? Maybe you won't encounter what I have. The 8th intake bolt, the one at the very back up under the cowl, the inside torx part of the bolt is stripped out and the main head outside part, is round. I don't have any round sockets.

 

[San Hill]

I recently bought a 26mm combo wrench to fill in the gap/s in my standard/metric choices. Is this a 4.0 SOHC? Maybe you won't encounter what I have. The 8th intake bolt, the one at the very back up under the cowl, the inside torx part of the bolt is stripped out and the main head outside part, is round. I don't have any round sockets.

Yes, my vehicle is a V6 4.0 Liter SOHC. It only has 6 torx bolts from what I can see. Unless, I've missed 2 all together in which case I'll be highly upset because I don't know where they are.

 

[San Hill]

So, I got all 6 torx manifold bits removed. I tried to get the intake manifold to come out and I realized that it's attached to the EGR Valve. Taking the front 2 bolts out didn't help at all. So, I screwed them back in and I'm trying to remove the rear 2 bolts holding the EGR Valve to the intake manifold. They are 10mm bolts I believe. But I could not get them off because of odd angles. I'm going to have to try again later.

***EDIT***: I'm watching a video of another guy doing this same job but his Ford Explorer is a 2005 V6. He said there are 8 torx bolts to be removed for the intake manifold. I thought there were only six. How many are there, can somebody confirm? My vehicle is a 2006 V6.