Please help me, I've Fallen and I CAN'T GET UP? I need advice on scarcity of Valve Cover Bolts | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Please help me, I've Fallen and I CAN'T GET UP? I need advice on scarcity of Valve Cover Bolts

Well, I'm finally down to the bare metal of the drivers side valve cover. Hoping to finish this up today or tomorrow:

IMG_20240503_113450585.jpg
IMG_20240503_113519268.jpg
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Well, I got the new valve cover gasket in as best as I could. I replaced the old orings on all 6 bolts with the new "blue" ones. I'm just about ready to start rebuilding back up instead of tearing down.

IMG_20240503_145427824.jpg



One question though. I noticed that the front left bolt (left when facing engine from in front of vehicle) on the drivers side valve cover is shorter than the other 5. I didn't notice until later that 2 of those "other 5" bolts have shorter stud lengths than 3 of their siblings. Are the 2 bolts with the shorter studs for the loom wiring going in the "same" row (row as in front to back of the engine) as the shortest bolt with no stud for the wiring? That makes the most sense to me since the valve cover itself kinda sits at an angle, that is to say, it's higher on the left and lower on the right side when viewed from the front of the vehicle. Is this correct?

*****EDITED*****: So, I proceeded to assume my theory is correct and put the 3 shortest bolts on the left side of the drivers side valve cover (left side facing vehicle from front). This seems to work. The drivers side valve cover with the new seal and o-rings for the bolts is back on with all electrical connections hooked back up (although the ones that go on studs are still loose, of course, until I finish torquing).
I now have borrowed a 'PreciseBuilt 3/8" Drive 35-200 in-lb Dual-Direction Click Professional Torque Wrench' from my Dad to tighten these 6 drivers side valve cover bolts to Fords specs. And then the 8 intake manifold torx bolts later in the rebuilding process.

I need to know torque settings for:
1) 8 Intake Manifold torx bolts
2) 6 Drivers side Valve Cover bolts
 






This should help.
20240503_230857.jpg
20240503_230824.jpg
 






Yes, very helpful. I can see I need 89 lb-in for Valve Cover bolts. And I need 8 lb-ft for the intake manifold bolts. Mucho Gracias!!! Thank You!!!
I will finish this project up tomorrow and hopefully I get good results.

*** EDITED ***: One of the valve cover bolts has broken. I'm not sure if I didn't have the torque set right on the wrench or it just broke because it's old. Anyhoo, I really just need 1 unless I replace all 6. Can somebody post links to suitable alternatives? Like, just a general screw/stud the same length/size for an emergency, right now?
 






Yes, very helpful. I can see I need 89 lb-in for Valve Cover bolts. And I need 8 lb-ft for the intake manifold bolts.
Just in case you didn't know, you can convert foot pounds into inch pounds by multiplying by 12. In other words 8 foot lbs = 96 inch lbs.
 






Picture of needed bolt

Edit. The slight amount of torque needed does make for a weaker click feel. Go very slow. If it feels too tight it probably is
 






Picture of needed bolt

Edit. The slight amount of torque needed does make for a weaker click feel. Go very slow. If it feels too tight it probably is
Here's a picture of my broken bolt which I have no issue providing. But I would have thought the relevant information to help me find a replacement was already common knowledge, meaning, it's a valve cover bolt for a 2006 Ford Explorer driver's side valve cover.

IMG_20240504_180045779.jpg


There is the specificity that it's one of the 3 longer bolts on the lower side of the cover, though.
 






Not common knowledge to me I only work on v8 now days, but, I did once have an sohc long enough to tear into it a bit then scrap it.
Since I never throw away a bolt I was going to look thru to see if I have one like that . If it's ok with you that is.
 






Not common knowledge to me I only work on v8 now days, but, I did once have an sohc long enough to tear into it a bit then scrap it.
Since I never throw away a bolt I was going to look thru to see if I have one like that . If it's ok with you that is.
Oh okay, sure. Yes, I didn't mean to offend you, I was just curious about the question. I've discovered other threads on this very website where they even give the specific dimensions of these bolts.

So, I think these are M6 39mm and they list it the other way also. I'll find the specs and see if that helps in a general sense.

***EDITED:***: So, I found these metrics in my Google search which I used because I got them from a thread somewhere. But these are the metrics for the bolt I'm looking for if they are accurate for my make/model:

M6 X 39 / 4.5 X 24.5

And here's the thread, it's not quite exactly in the range of my 2006 but it's close:

valve cover bolts and studs

Here's a website showing exactly what I need, at least this looks exactly like my broken bolt:

Looks like my broken bolt but only goes up to 2005
 












Well, I shoulda looked first. No longer where I thought they would be.
It's cool. I think I've found them on a website for $15.00 but the only thing that bugs me is it doesn't list my year as a compatible vehicle.

This looks like the exact bolts that I need but the website is saying it doesn't fit me vehicle. What the hell?

Looks like exactly what I need
 






I can't believe how difficult it is to find replacement bolts for my valve cover. I can spend way more money than I need to if I buy a full kit and get 6 new bolts with a valve cover kit but that seems stupid. What if I just buy a single bolt with same metrics as the Ford bolt but without the stud for the wiring loom. I can still torque it right and just not have the stud? I think that's my easiest route at this point.
On a second note, does anybody know who makes these Ford parts in China? Because that's what the resellers tell me, they are getting all this from overseas.
 












You might try a salvage yard up there? Are there any that still allow pick and pull walk around?
I've thought of that. Yes, there are junk yards here local, well, close enough to drive. But do I wanna go to a junk yard and pull used, possibly rusty bolts? I think I'll just buy a kit or stick to my idea of buying a brand new bolt without the studs. It's nice to replace exact parts but I'm only looking to get 3 more years, max, out of this vehicle anyway. If I can do that, I've gotten my money's worth.
 






Back
Top