allmyEXes
Elite Explorer
- Joined
- February 6, 2016
- Messages
- 2,435
- Reaction score
- 1,538
- City, State
- No. Alabama USA
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 1997 Blue Ex 4.0 SOHC
- Callsign
- KAGG 3611 (CB)
You will need a basic metric tool set to remove the rack assembly. Also, a deep well socket of unknown size however a 15/16" deep well was a bit oversized but worked to unfasten the nuts below the crossmember that hold the r&p assembly in place.
ADDED May 17th. @410Fortune Thanks for the size update. Before anyone starts this procedure, make sure that you have a deep well socket available to remove the r&p nuts. The size is 24mm. A 15/16" 6 point socket is a little bigger and will work if necessary.
The bumper was off of the truck for a r&r of the bumper. That is an optional step. The 8 bolts and the two light harnesses are all that is involved to remove it if you so desire.
Remove the air deflector to gain a little more working room
Break a loose the tie rod nuts and wheel stud nuts while the truck is still on the ground.
Jack up the truck and place stands under it. Remove the front wheels.
Unfasten and remove the sway bar. Reattach the hardware to keep it organized. The end link fastening nuts point down.
Remove the power steering cooler.
Disconnect the outer tie rod ends from the spindles. Count the number of turns of each. During installation count the
turns and it will be close to the same measurement that it was originally at.
Remove the "pin" bolt from the lower steering shaft to rack assembly.
Remove the two retaining nuts for the r&p. They are the nuts in the bottom of the crossmember. Slip the bolts out from the top. Now slide the rack towards the passenger side US, this will give you enough room to disconnect the pressure
and return line.
With the rack totally disconnected, slide it to the right as far as possible to get the left inner tie rod out of the crossmember. There is only one spot to get the rack out. Same as going back together. At times it will seem as though it will not come out.
Inspect the replacement rack. Check low pressure fitting connection for fit.
The package was double boxed from RockAuto.
With a brake cylinder hone, a barrel sander or some 80-grit sandpaper, clean the rack bushing holes to be prepped
for the bushing/s installation. Wait until the new rack is back in the chassis to install these. You'll need all the clearance
possible to get the rack back through the crossmember.
Reverse the removal procedure for installation. Use the appropriate ps fluid. While the wheels are still off of the vehicle,
It can be started to initionaly bleed out some air. Keep checking fluid level while doing this and after each test drive.
Fine tune the toe in adjustment including getting the steering wheel centered.
ADDED May 17th. @410Fortune Thanks for the size update. Before anyone starts this procedure, make sure that you have a deep well socket available to remove the r&p nuts. The size is 24mm. A 15/16" 6 point socket is a little bigger and will work if necessary.
The bumper was off of the truck for a r&r of the bumper. That is an optional step. The 8 bolts and the two light harnesses are all that is involved to remove it if you so desire.
Remove the air deflector to gain a little more working room
Break a loose the tie rod nuts and wheel stud nuts while the truck is still on the ground.
Jack up the truck and place stands under it. Remove the front wheels.
Remove the power steering cooler.
Disconnect the outer tie rod ends from the spindles. Count the number of turns of each. During installation count the
turns and it will be close to the same measurement that it was originally at.
Remove the "pin" bolt from the lower steering shaft to rack assembly.
Remove the two retaining nuts for the r&p. They are the nuts in the bottom of the crossmember. Slip the bolts out from the top. Now slide the rack towards the passenger side US, this will give you enough room to disconnect the pressure
and return line.
With the rack totally disconnected, slide it to the right as far as possible to get the left inner tie rod out of the crossmember. There is only one spot to get the rack out. Same as going back together. At times it will seem as though it will not come out.
Inspect the replacement rack. Check low pressure fitting connection for fit.
The package was double boxed from RockAuto.
With a brake cylinder hone, a barrel sander or some 80-grit sandpaper, clean the rack bushing holes to be prepped
for the bushing/s installation. Wait until the new rack is back in the chassis to install these. You'll need all the clearance
possible to get the rack back through the crossmember.
Reverse the removal procedure for installation. Use the appropriate ps fluid. While the wheels are still off of the vehicle,
It can be started to initionaly bleed out some air. Keep checking fluid level while doing this and after each test drive.
Fine tune the toe in adjustment including getting the steering wheel centered.
