04 4.0 Crank No Start Help | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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04 4.0 Crank No Start Help

CnKole

New Member
Joined
April 7, 2024
Messages
7
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City, State
Minneapolis, MN
Year, Model & Trim Level
2004 Explorer XLS 4.0 4x2
Alright so this is a bit of a complex one, and has quite a bit of backstory.
2004 Ford Explorer XLS 4.0 FlexFuel RWD

I was testing circuits to try and diagnose my light issue I had (no tails, ambers up front, cluster lights, or license plate lights) and in this process I took the 20a horn fuse to use in the 15a fuse slot that kept blowing. Noticed voltage dipping so I started the explorer to charge the battery up a bit. It died 10-15 seconds later. Pulled codes and I wish i would have kept it but I didnt, there was some sort of code having to do with PATS (Passive Anti Theft System) and the horn. So I put the 20a fuse back where it belonged and it kept cranking without starting. I was cranking it for probably close to a half hour over the next few hours. First thing was to check spark, it has it, and its good. Its got air, its got spark, so next is obviously fuel. I dont personally recall, but someone that was helping me said he heard the fuel pump priming. So I tried switching out the fuel pump relay with a known good one. No change. I try sending 12v via my power probe to the power out pin of the relay socket, no prime. At this point I drain the fuel, drop the tank and pull the old fuel pump out, put the new one in, and turn the key to on to see if it primes, no prime. I check the fuel safety (inertia) switch in the passenger kick panel, not tripped. I try to bypass the fuel pump driver module by jumping the 2 pins at each end together, no change.

I am at a loss with this thing. My thoughts are its one of a few things that i just dont know how to diagnose.
  • PATS is tweaking (the fuse that kept blowing via my light issue is related to PATS somehow), though when i key on engine off, the light in the middle of the dash is just solid. To my knowledge, it PATS is tweaking it will flash rapidly.
  • It really was just a fuel pump, and the vehicle is just smart enough to know not to try to prime the pump if theres no fuel in the tank. (there is no fuel in the tank and its still halfway out of the vehicle)
  • Some other misc electrical issue.
The funds are not available to take it to a real shop and pay them hundreds-thousands of dollars to MAYBE diagnose it. Any suggestions yall have are appreciated.
 






update:

Testing for power/continuity to my fuel pump, I have power all the way to the Driver module on Key On, currently trying to find a pinout diagram for the connectors on the fuel pump to make sure im actually getting power down to that from the driver module.
 






This should help. There are 2 different ones just look at the connector to figure out which one you have.

received_3513678315516373.jpeg


received_1339954560002303.jpeg
 






It’s not going to run until you solve that theft light
Theft light should go off while cranking
Rapid flash = issue with the key
Solid on = something is wrong w key, or ignition halo or a module. Solid light indicates an issue with the pats. The truck will never start until this is reset or solved

 






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