After I installed my used Superlift, I needed front sway bar links. None were available locally, and the Superlift parts were expensive. My stockers were rusted solid, I had to hacksaw them off, so I had no choice but to make some.
Parts List:
2 pieces appropriate length of 3/8" galvanized steel pipe
2 pieces 3/8" All thread
2 nylon lock nuts, 3/8"
4 standard nuts 3/8"
1 Energy Suspension's Sway Bar End Link Set (http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/endl.html)
This is really simple-
With your suspension loaded, level your sway bar, measure the distance between the hole in the lower control arm and the end of the sway bar. Take that measurement, subtract 2" from that length. Cut the 3/8" pipe to that length.
Take your original measurement, add ~5", cut the all thread to that length.
I bought 3' of all thread, and cut it in half.
I put the nylon locknut on top, a washer then a bushing. Then through the sway bar, bushing, washer, pipe, washer, bushing, LCA, bushing, washer and finally the two nuts, jam them against each other.
It should look like this:
Once you have it all like you want it, hacksaw the all thread off close to the nuts to keep it from snagging on things.
I was originally a little apprehensive about the all thread holding up, its grade 2 after all. But, it has held up for over a year now, no problems.
This also makes a great quick disconnect setup- two 1/2" wrenches and a few minutes and you can remove these.
Parts List:
2 pieces appropriate length of 3/8" galvanized steel pipe
2 pieces 3/8" All thread
2 nylon lock nuts, 3/8"
4 standard nuts 3/8"
1 Energy Suspension's Sway Bar End Link Set (http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/endl.html)
This is really simple-
With your suspension loaded, level your sway bar, measure the distance between the hole in the lower control arm and the end of the sway bar. Take that measurement, subtract 2" from that length. Cut the 3/8" pipe to that length.
Take your original measurement, add ~5", cut the all thread to that length.
I bought 3' of all thread, and cut it in half.
I put the nylon locknut on top, a washer then a bushing. Then through the sway bar, bushing, washer, pipe, washer, bushing, LCA, bushing, washer and finally the two nuts, jam them against each other.
It should look like this:
Once you have it all like you want it, hacksaw the all thread off close to the nuts to keep it from snagging on things.
I was originally a little apprehensive about the all thread holding up, its grade 2 after all. But, it has held up for over a year now, no problems.
This also makes a great quick disconnect setup- two 1/2" wrenches and a few minutes and you can remove these.