5r55s Trans Troubles after Motor Swap

[Jonah411]

Good day all and I much appreciate the support on here, in advance. I’ve posted a few things and everyone is great here !!

Here’s my latest. I have a 2004 4.0 Explorer 2WD. Bought it new and hate to let it go. I have been installing bad motors for months and finally got someone that was halfway honest and it didn’t have busted timing etc I got it in, but didn’t set the TC correctly and thought I had done something wrong , but it never moved from its location and come to find out it was low on trans fluid. But I found cracked gears in the pump, which would have failed down the road. Anywho- it’s all in now and gears in pump replaced along with seals and gaskets. I put new fluid in (filled TC first ). When I dropped the pan, no burnt fluid or metal shavings anywhere. New gasket and filter installed , filled with 11-12 qts. I had my cooler lines off during the motor swap. I also have no exhaust hooked up except the down pipes with cats, 2 sensors in 2 not in , due to no exhaust. I don’t want to spend the money on exhaust if it’s not gonna be running anytime soon. My main problem at this moment is , when I put in drive it takes off and seems more powerful now but there’s a lengthy delay in the first shift and I have to let off the gas to get it to shift. Or I can let off the pedal and it will accelerate on its own but not to the point where it will shift. It feels like it does when you hit resume on cruise control. Once it shifts, it runs pretty good , knowing it doesn’t have sensors giving correct readings. I’ve wondered if the sensors or exhaust all connected would make a difference in the super long delayed shift. I let the fluid come out the hole til it was a dribble and it stopped. Plugged it back.

Another concern is the filter I took off had the long pick up tube (2 1/4”). But for some reason they sent me the 1” short snout one. I figured it would be fine. Would the short snout filter give me shift problems ? I’ve ordered the longer tube and will drop the pan AGAIN and test it and see. I had no trans issues previously or prior to the motor swap.

I believe it was over filled too but like I said I drained it out and it was finding its way out of the trans vent too. I think it still had too much in it. Eventho I drained it through the filler hole. I can start it and it’s coming out eventho the level seems to be right.

I hope this wasn’t too long and someone knows what I’m dealing with. Thank you much !!!!

 

[Jonah411]

 

[CallMeSyd]

Assuming you did pcm reset and cleared codes, does it show any recurring codes? Sounds like the issue is a delayed shift from 1st to 2nd? That's typical of a servo issue or possible solenoid, but is it only 1st to 2nd or are there other issues? How does reverse feel?

 

[Jonah411]

I disconnected the battery for a few days just cause I was waiting on that filter with the 2 1/4” pick up tube. That’s what I took out, so hoped it would be the case. It’s lacking fluid or has too much fluid again. I’m guessing ! I let it drain for a few days too, about 5-6qts came out and that’s what I put back in it. Now it starts to pull off and hesitates then stops. My attempt to fix last time drove fine in 1st and after it shifted into 2nd (the long shift was my issue. That would trigger the O/D light , I believe ). I had no previous issues with this trans , until I swapped the motor and I unhooked the cooler lines like a dumbass. Seemed helpful at the time. I filled the TC before installing it. Filter is seated and pan is on with no visible leaks. It’s however leaking from somewhere on top of trans. I’m asssuming from the vent tube / overfill tube/hole. When I check the fluid when it comes out the filler screw, it always pours out steady for a while. Then I plug it when it’s barely dripping or stops. While level. Then it didnt engage at all. I add 1-2 QTs back into it. Then it engaged and drove fine. I’m betting that I get 2 more and throw them in, it’s gonna go into gear again. But what good is the check plug screw if it’s saying it’s overfilled but working. When it’s showing the right level it won’t engage. Seems fishy to me. I’m about to throw in the towel. It’s become a problem and could have gotten another trans by now. I didn’t have trans trouble. The motor was the issue not this.

 

[410Fortune]

You checked all wiring? Visual inspection? Nothing got broken inched between engine and trans? Did the main ground strap get hooked back up? Is the trans wiring all
Plugged in fully? Connectors are good, inspect all the pins

Any codes pending? Trans codes require a decent scanner that can retrieve manufacture specific codes

 

[Jonah411]

Assuming you did pcm reset and cleared codes, does it show any recurring codes? Sounds like the issue is a delayed shift from 1st to 2nd? That's typical of a servo issue or possible solenoid, but is it only 1st to 2nd or are there other issues? How does reverse feel?

It was only 1st to 2nd before. Now I put the correct filter in it and the correct amount of fluid back in it. Now it goes about 3 ft and stops. Feather the pedal and it will go 3 ft in a few seconds. I can sense or feel like it’s doing like my boat motor or cavitation sorda. Like there’s not enough pressure or fluid.

 

[Jonah411]

You checked all wiring? Visual inspection? Nothing got broken inched between engine and trans? Did the main ground strap get hooked back up? Is the trans wiring all
Plugged in fully? Connectors are good, inspect all the pins

Any codes pending? Trans codes require a decent scanner that can retrieve manufacture specific codes

Yes, I checked all wiring in detail. I checked all the plugs. I do have one that comes from the trans that plugs into the exhaust. Looks like one of o2 sensors. Will that effect shift pressure ?? I don’t have the exhaust in yet. Just the 2 that are bolted to the manifolds. I have the sensors plug into the bungs but I’m sure they aren’t getting correct readings.

 

[Jonah411]

You checked all wiring? Visual inspection? Nothing got broken inched between engine and trans? Did the main ground strap get hooked back up? Is the trans wiring all
Plugged in fully? Connectors are good, inspect all the pins

Any codes pending? Trans codes require a decent scanner that can retrieve manufacture specific codes

Haven’t ran any codes cause I figured they would be throwing codes cause of the lack of exhaust installed. Etc. I can see tho. I’m sure I won’t pick up any trans codes , my scanner is a $69.95 type. I don’t want to spend the cash on exhaust when it’s not running.

 

[Jonah411]

Soo… I put another 2 QTs in it , thinking it would do the same thing as the test before the last one, I was correct. This time it drove and shifted in all gears but still have the super long 1st to 2nd when that long high rpm shift occurs , that’s when I get the flashing OD light. It was leaking going down the road as I assumed it would cause it has to be over filled. But if I open the filler screw and let it drain until it’s “so called filled” it’s gonna do what it did before I added these last 2 QTs.

I’m losing my mind and 6’5” 240 I am done with this trying to get under these short ass exploders ! I’m not sure what to do.

The exhaust is too loud and not even on the truck, all the way. It’s downright embarrassing when it doesn’t shift from 1-2 correctly. I feel like a big scum bag driving out of my road past million dollar homes. My property doesn’t have a road long enough to get into 2nd. Or I’d stay here !!

This is starting to whoop my ass, going on a year of off/on work. Prob 3 weeks straight and 100s of hours of my labor, 4 motors (2 bad 1 I ran hot and the current one ) learned all about timing chains, cassettes, cams and all that nonsense, etc. I had no trans trouble before the swap.

I’m starting to think it’s something to do with the cooler lines. Could there be a wrong way to run them and cause a pressure or fill limit problem? Or could it be the sensors sending readings to computers and maf/map are communicating with the tcm causing the long 1-2 shift. ?? Cause the rpms at idle are very low and then they seem to be erratic and all over the place. I’m just about to burn the sob in my back yard !!

 

[leadfootdriver]

The long 1st to 2nd shift could be a failed Servo or Servo Bore.. No overdrive is another symptom..

Please Note: The 2001 and earlier Explorer family and the Ranger - Sport Trac have servos that are too small to use our assembly sleeve and require our chamfer tool which is included in the kit. We email out different directions th

AJ1E Superior Solutions, LLC - Ford Servo Bore Transmission Fix Solution Kit

www.fordservoboretransmissionfixsolution.com

Did the Overdrive Servo.. With Pics..

The Vehicle made a quick high pitch noise when I would shift from Reverse to Drive for a long time. It drove fine but it finally started to lose the 1-2 and OD shifts.. Did the research and it pointed to the OD Servo. I found the links to AJ1E Superior Solutions and here we are. For over a year...

www.explorerforum.com

 

[Jonah411]

The long 1st to 2nd shift could be a failed Servo or Servo Bore.. No overdrive is another symptom..

Please Note: The 2001 and earlier Explorer family and the Ranger - Sport Trac have servos that are too small to use our assembly sleeve and require our chamfer tool which is included in the kit. We email out different directions th

AJ1E Superior Solutions, LLC - Ford Servo Bore Transmission Fix Solution Kit

www.fordservoboretransmissionfixsolution.com

Did the Overdrive Servo.. With Pics..

The Vehicle made a quick high pitch noise when I would shift from Reverse to Drive for a long time. It drove fine but it finally started to lose the 1-2 and OD shifts.. Did the research and it pointed to the OD Servo. I found the links to AJ1E Superior Solutions and here we are. For over a year...

www.explorerforum.com

The no overdrive light comes on once I am trying to shift into second. The light stays off until then. I had no troubles with trans before draining the system. Cooler lines and cooler were drained also. I just don’t see the servo or things like that just all of a sudden going bad while sitting parked in my shop.

 

[Jonah411]

The no overdrive light comes on once I am trying to shift into second. The light stays off until then. I had no troubles with trans before draining the system. Cooler lines and cooler were drained also. I just don’t see the servo or things like that just all of a sudden going bad while sitting parked in my shop.

No overdrive is another “symptom”of the servo or bore ? Or you mean it’s another set of problems from something else ??

 

[leadfootdriver]

My Intermediate Servo was broken.. I had no OD.. 1,2 barely worked. I would have to rev 1st up high and let off the gas and then it would shift to 2. Mostly I would bring the Gearshifter down to 2nd at a stop and leave in 2nd and then manually shift to Drive. That was the best option. I drove it like that for over a year, even on long drives.. Replaced it and all is well.

Just switched out the Fluid and Filter and even adjusted the Bands with no other repairs. Shifts like new. It's common for the Servo Bore to be worn in these Transmissions, but it was not the case for me. The Servo itself was flat out broken..

A little trivia.. 70mph in 4th runs at 3000 rpms. 70 in 5th is 2000 rpms.. Any idea how many miles per gallon having Overdrive yields? Did some 400 mile round trips with and without OD and recorded the mileage for both.. OD gives you 1 extra MPG.. LOL

 

[410Fortune]

Put the y pipe up with the 02 sensors in it for testing, I would just because

However I agree it’s not going to cause the trans issue you are having

Now this

I am at a stand still. Don’t know what to really do at this point. I have some extra OSS sensors from one of the other explorers I bought during all of this. But I don’t think this would be caused by one of these little trans sensors. They are all the same part numbers FYI. 3 of them. I don’t know what else to do ! Just sitting collecting dust. I can’t find any other reason or anything I did or didn’t do right or wrong.

You have a flashing od light
What are the codes?
The pcm is telling you what’s wrong (1-2 shift)

Remember these 5r trans are actually a 4 speed they use 1st gear and overdrive together to create a “false” second gear.

Your trans sat dry
In my experience this is when small things happen inside, draining and sitting dry is when potential problems arise, meaning it may have felt “fine” before the engine swap but it is not now. No biggie it is likely something very simple like a stuck piston or a bit or carbon blocking a passage, possibly a solenoid issue. Sitting w no fluid in it, having new fluid added, this is when the ugly will show itself. Better that it happen now then 100 miles down the road in my opinion

Unless any debris or water was dropped into the open trans lines while engine was out?

Always clean the cooler and lines before reconnecting


Forget trying to figure out why this haooened now instead try to fix it, it is not a fluid level issue, it is something physical and the pcm is telling you about it (flashing od light)

Nothing sucks worse then changing an engine and then having trans trouble… but this is the nature of turning wrenches. Battle on

 

[Jonah411]

You just described mine to a T ! I don’t know how the servo could have went bad while parked. It would be a big coincidence if happened at the same time. But I am willing to try I guess. I just reset my TCM (I think). I started it up and a bunch of smoke poured out of the exhaust ! Not sure if that had anything to do with it. But hadn’t done that before. I ran out of fuel down the road. Only 90 degrees tho. Ha. Started it up and still long delayed 1-2 shift (almost like it revs so high it jumps to 3rd). Tried to drive it easy but I didn’t get a chance. You think my problem is the servo honestly. ? I wouldn’t think you would explain your symptoms and explain your diagnosis to me if it wasn’t. That would be just odd and weird. I thank you for taking your time to try and help someone. This fixes it, I will be more than happy and borderline excited !!! Thanks in advance

My Intermediate Servo was broken.. I had no OD.. 1,2 barely worked. I would have to rev 1st up high and let off the gas and then it would shift to 2. Mostly I would bring the Gearshifter down to 2nd at a stop and leave in 2nd and then manually shift to Drive. That was the best option. I drove it like that for over a year, even on long drives.. Replaced it and all is well.

Just switched out the Fluid and Filter and even adjusted the Bands with no other repairs. Shifts like new. It's common for the Servo Bore to be worn in these Transmissions, but it was not the case for me. The Servo itself was flat out broken..

A little trivia.. 70mph in 4th runs at 3000 rpms. 70 in 5th is 2000 rpms.. Any idea how many miles per gallon having Overdrive yields? Did some 400 mile round trips with and without OD and recorded the mileage for both.. OD gives you 1 extra MPG.. LOL

 

[Jonah411]

Put the y pipe up with the 02 sensors in it for testing, I would just because

However I agree it’s not going to cause the trans issue you are having

Now this



You have a flashing od light
What are the codes?
The pcm is telling you what’s wrong (1-2 shift)

Remember these 5r trans are actually a 4 speed they use 1st gear and overdrive together to create a “false” second gear.

Your trans sat dry
In my experience this is when small things happen inside, draining and sitting dry is when potential problems arise, meaning it may have felt “fine” before the engine swap but it is not now. No biggie it is likely something very simple like a stuck piston or a bit or carbon blocking a passage, possibly a solenoid issue. Sitting w no fluid in it, having new fluid added, this is when the ugly will show itself. Better that it happen now then 100 miles down the road in my opinion

Unless any debris or water was dropped into the open trans lines while engine was out?

Always clean the cooler and lines before reconnecting


Forget trying to figure out why this haooened now instead try to fix it, it is not a fluid level issue, it is something physical and the pcm is telling you about it (flashing od light)

Nothing sucks worse then changing an engine and then having trans trouble… but this is the nature of turning wrenches. Battle on

I’m gonna get the codes now. Than

Put the y pipe up with the 02 sensors in it for testing, I would just because

However I agree it’s not going to cause the trans issue you are having

Now this



You have a flashing od light
What are the codes?
The pcm is telling you what’s wrong (1-2 shift)

Remember these 5r trans are actually a 4 speed they use 1st gear and overdrive together to create a “false” second gear.

Your trans sat dry
In my experience this is when small things happen inside, draining and sitting dry is when potential problems arise, meaning it may have felt “fine” before the engine swap but it is not now. No biggie it is likely something very simple like a stuck piston or a bit or carbon blocking a passage, possibly a solenoid issue. Sitting w no fluid in it, having new fluid added, this is when the ugly will show itself. Better that it happen now then 100 miles down the road in my opinion

Unless any debris or water was dropped into the open trans lines while engine was out?

Always clean the cooler and lines before reconnecting


Forget trying to figure out why this haooened now instead try to fix it, it is not a fluid level issue, it is something physical and the pcm is telling you about it (flashing od light)

Nothing sucks worse then changing an engine and then having trans trouble… but this is the nature of turning wrenches. Battle on

i am going to get the codes now and by what your saying it does make total sense ! I opened the can of worms with adding the fluid I had no choice tho. It drained and I had to add more. Let me get the codes and post them for you and someone else that may benefit from this !! Thank you so much for offering your time and knowledge. It’s good to know there’s good people still in the world today !!

 

[Jonah411]

Just have 2 at the moment as it sits.
P2195 and P0106. OD light didn’t come on after I ran out of gas. Not sure why but I had OD for about 2 miles. Then parked. I’m about to go try again and see if I can pull anymore codes. I will clear these and go for a drive. Thanks again

 

[410Fortune]

You must scan for manufacture specific codes, trans codes are not going to come up without diagnostics side of scanner just fyi!

Normally if the od light flashes you are in limp mode and there is a trans code stored

You are welcome!

 

[Jonah411]

Okay so P0106 came back after the clear and he was accompanied with P0300 P2195 P0401

I think 300 code meant there’s something important missing from my vehicle that is important to its driveability . No $&&@ Sherlock !!

The 2195 accompanies the 2196 (sensors right !).

The 0401 - was egr / vacuum. May be the way it’s hooked up or not hooked up. I never got to rerouting or making it work correctly I guess. I wanted to make sure it was gonna run 1st. I have the hoses plugged for now and my vacuum came off a sport trac too. Not the same set up as explorers ! Small differences but def differences.

 

[Jonah411]

I

Assuming you did pcm reset and cleared codes, does it show any recurring codes? Sounds like the issue is a delayed shift from 1st to 2nd? That's typical of a servo issue or possible solenoid, but is it only 1st to 2nd or are there other issues?

Put the y pipe up with the 02 sensors in it for testing, I would just because

However I agree it’s not going to cause the trans issue you are having

Now this



You have a flashing od light
What are the codes?
The pcm is telling you what’s wrong (1-2 shift)

Remember these 5r trans are actually a 4 speed they use 1st gear and overdrive together to create a “false” second gear.

Your trans sat dry
In my experience this is when small things happen inside, draining and sitting dry is when potential problems arise, meaning it may have felt “fine” before the engine swap but it is not now. No biggie it is likely something very simple like a stuck piston or a bit or carbon blocking a passage, possibly a solenoid issue. Sitting w no fluid in it, having new fluid added, this is when the ugly will show itself. Better that it happen now then 100 miles down the road in my opinion

Unless any debris or water was dropped into the open trans lines while engine was out?

Always clean the cooler and lines before reconnecting


Forget trying to figure out why this haooened now instead try to fix it, it is not a fluid level issue, it is something physical and the pcm is telling you about it (flashing od light)

Nothing sucks worse then changing an engine and then having trans trouble… but this is the nature of turning wrenches. Battle on

Just 1st to 2nd and rpm’s at times are very high in 1st to where it’s trying to drive itself and when braking it’s still trying to get to 2nd gear. Idles higher than normal and sounds like a good strong motor without any motor noises, but then all of a sudden the rpm’s will drop quickly and make me feel like it’s gonna stall out or die on me. I freak out not wanting to be stranded on the road. I think the idle drop is prob correct around 1000 rpm instead of 2500 ish. Without exhaust it’s very loud then just loud. I’ve done forgot how quiet explorers are suppose to be. It’s a wanna be stock car at this point. I will relate this issue to the sensors getting false reading to everything else etc. But still have the delayed 1st to 2nd.

Would you suggest go the servo and bore route ? Or the solenoid pack / valve body ? I see that there’s no need to adjust any bands if I replace any servos. Not sure how much truth is to that !! Thank again.