urbanistic
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- July 25, 2004
- Messages
- 278
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- Seattle, Washington
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2000 XLT 5.0
Okay, Ive seen 1000 questions about this, and no one has actually posted the answer! So I am here to provide instructions on how to do this and wire up your system while bypassing the amp (and improving the sound).
!!! This is for wiring on the 93-94 Premium System JBL with Subwoofer !!!
1st, you must have a harness from your new head unit to wire together. There is the power harness, and I am not going over that on this round. Its been answered before. All you need to know is that the BLK/G wire is the ground.
Now lets get started.
Before starting, pull the battery neg terminal.
There are 2 connectors, one large and you can see the wires. Thats the power harness. You want the one where the wires are enclosed in a shielded case, colored grey.
Inside this cabel, there is 8 wires and a ground drain wire. This is the wires to the amplifier, a per-out from your stock head unit. You will be cutting this at the connector to give you enough space.
After you cut it, strip it back and peel back the shielding. DO NOT GROUND the ground drain wire at this location. (The ground and shield is to eliminate motor hum and static.) Proceed to strip each wire there, a total of 8.
The colors in that cable are as follows:
Green
White/Orange
Light Blue/Black
Yellow
Purple/white
Light Blue
White/Red
Brown
Now, this is where your head unit wiring config comes into play. At the top of the Audio Forum thread, there is a thread linking to manufacturers website where you can obtain the right information. I have an Alpine, and they use the common color scheme...
Left Front - White(+) & White/Black(-)
Right Front - Gray(+) & Gray/Black(-)
Right Rear - Violet(+) & Violet/Black(-)
Left Rear - Green(+) & Green/Black(-)
Wire them up 1 by 1 while writing down which wire was connected to what.
Example: Green and White/Orange from truck wired to White and White/black to Head Unit.
Now, for the deciphering of the code. When you open up your back passenger side quarter-panel, you will see your 2 stock amps and the sub. I recommend removing the whole panel out of the truck for easy access. If you dont know how to do that, search the forums or get a Manual.
On the amp to the left, normally black, there are 3 connectors. 2 on the bottom and one on the top. Disconnect the one on the bottom to the left and the one on the top. The bottom right connector is the pre-out to the sub-amp. The bottom connecter should have the same colors that I listed above.
Now, the top connecter is the one that goes to the speakers....
Right Rear - Black/White(+) & Orange/Red(-)
Right Front - Dark Green/Orange(+) & White/Green(-)
Left Rear - Tan/Yellow(+) & Pink/Green(-)
Left Front - Light Blue/White(+) & Orange/Green(-)
Now you have the code. Connect the wires, bypassing the amp, following the scheme above! Be sure to ground the shield drain wire back here. This will drain off line noise without any electrical interference.
Now, if you cant figure it out from this point, go to an auto audio shop. But for those of you who know how to wire, I hope this saves you hours of research and 40 bucks on the harnesses. Not to mention the space saved in the dash from removing all those connectors.
I recommend soldering each connection and shrinking some shrinkwrap around each join. This will eliminate possible loose wires from shorting out.
Enjoy!
!!! This is for wiring on the 93-94 Premium System JBL with Subwoofer !!!
1st, you must have a harness from your new head unit to wire together. There is the power harness, and I am not going over that on this round. Its been answered before. All you need to know is that the BLK/G wire is the ground.
Now lets get started.
Before starting, pull the battery neg terminal.
There are 2 connectors, one large and you can see the wires. Thats the power harness. You want the one where the wires are enclosed in a shielded case, colored grey.
Inside this cabel, there is 8 wires and a ground drain wire. This is the wires to the amplifier, a per-out from your stock head unit. You will be cutting this at the connector to give you enough space.
After you cut it, strip it back and peel back the shielding. DO NOT GROUND the ground drain wire at this location. (The ground and shield is to eliminate motor hum and static.) Proceed to strip each wire there, a total of 8.
The colors in that cable are as follows:
Green
White/Orange
Light Blue/Black
Yellow
Purple/white
Light Blue
White/Red
Brown
Now, this is where your head unit wiring config comes into play. At the top of the Audio Forum thread, there is a thread linking to manufacturers website where you can obtain the right information. I have an Alpine, and they use the common color scheme...
Left Front - White(+) & White/Black(-)
Right Front - Gray(+) & Gray/Black(-)
Right Rear - Violet(+) & Violet/Black(-)
Left Rear - Green(+) & Green/Black(-)
Wire them up 1 by 1 while writing down which wire was connected to what.
Example: Green and White/Orange from truck wired to White and White/black to Head Unit.
Now, for the deciphering of the code. When you open up your back passenger side quarter-panel, you will see your 2 stock amps and the sub. I recommend removing the whole panel out of the truck for easy access. If you dont know how to do that, search the forums or get a Manual.
On the amp to the left, normally black, there are 3 connectors. 2 on the bottom and one on the top. Disconnect the one on the bottom to the left and the one on the top. The bottom right connector is the pre-out to the sub-amp. The bottom connecter should have the same colors that I listed above.
Now, the top connecter is the one that goes to the speakers....
Right Rear - Black/White(+) & Orange/Red(-)
Right Front - Dark Green/Orange(+) & White/Green(-)
Left Rear - Tan/Yellow(+) & Pink/Green(-)
Left Front - Light Blue/White(+) & Orange/Green(-)
Now you have the code. Connect the wires, bypassing the amp, following the scheme above! Be sure to ground the shield drain wire back here. This will drain off line noise without any electrical interference.
Now, if you cant figure it out from this point, go to an auto audio shop. But for those of you who know how to wire, I hope this saves you hours of research and 40 bucks on the harnesses. Not to mention the space saved in the dash from removing all those connectors.
I recommend soldering each connection and shrinking some shrinkwrap around each join. This will eliminate possible loose wires from shorting out.
Enjoy!
I use an Xplod as well (extremely dissapointed with it) it will sound like total crap higher up 
