And yet another intermittent no crank no start - solved | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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And yet another intermittent no crank no start - solved

429CJ-3X2

Elite Explorer
Joined
November 6, 2009
Messages
1,666
Reaction score
422
City, State
Des Moines, Iowa
Year, Model & Trim Level
'01,'02, '04 Sport Tracs,
I'm already dealing with my '04 Sport Trac that won't start, now my son's '97 Mountaineer, 5.0 2WD, intermittently won't crank - just clicks at the fender mounted relay/solenoid. It will start right up with a boost from his portable booster. The battery and neg cable end were replaced in January. I checked the voltage about a half hour before he started it this morning, and it was 12.4, but I'm beginning to suspect my tester isn't accurate. It reads everything in the 12.4 - 12.5 range. Running, it was 14.7. He said he hears clicking under the hood sometimes when stopped like at a stoplight. Could be the a/c cycling, but that's not how he described it, and the a/c has a major leak, doesn't work, and may not cycle like it normally should. He just told me about this late yesterday afternoon, so I haven't had a chance to check it more thoroughly. He's at work all day, and usually doesn't come home until late in the evening, so it's difficult for me to check things out. Ideas?
 



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Starter relay is suspect as are battery connections

Make sure the theft light goes out while cranking or attempting to crank

Same ol things as your 04!! To me these things happen in 3s so it maybe starter month over at your place
 






I edited the original post - it's a '97, not '98, not that that matters, except the '97 doesn't have PATS. I was planning to start with a new relay, especially since he said he sometimes hears clicking in that area when it's idling.

I hope it's not starter month, especially in 3s! That means another one is about to go! The Escort wouldn't be as bad as the starter going out in my '02 Sport Trac. Honestly, we've been incredibly blessed over the years in that our cars have needed very minimal repairs and I've been able to fix them myself except for some a/c work, and a head gasket on an Aerostar we used to have. 2024 isn't starting out that great, though. Since the first of the year, I've replaced the batteries in the Mountaineer, Escort, and '04 ST, dealt with the power window in the Mountaineer (which I still need to address so he can lower it all the way), replaced the thermostat housing in the '04 ST, passenger side valve cover gasket on the '02 ST, rear struts and outer tie rods on the Escort, and upper control arm on the '02 ST (this week). A lot of that has been just this month. I still need to install camber bolts and new front tires on the '02 so I can get it aligned, replace a shackle on the Mountaineer, and resolve these starting issues. I don't need anything else to fix!
 






97 I think still uses fender mounted solenoid you can jumper with a screwdriver
Not until 98+ did they replace it with a relay in the power box

Check connections at the fender mounted relay
Check for power at little red/blue wire when key turned to “start”’position
You can jumper the two posts on the solenoid to activate the starter, I use a screwdriver

Make sure truck in park first! Lol if you want it to start have key in run position
 






Do the old-school test too, at night (or with something blocking out sunlight around headlights) try to start it with headlights on, with someone watching them, if they dim while trying to start, with NO cranking happening at starter, that pretty much confirms the starter is the problem, starter pulling power from the headlights / but frozen up....bad starter.
 






I’ll have to remember that one!
 






'97 does have the fender mounted solenoid, but unlike earlier Fords, there are rubber caps on a couple of the terminals. Actually, I think the wire on the small terminal pulls off rather than being held but a nut. I've jumped across terminals with a screwdriver many times in the past, just not on this one.

I went out with him when he left for church last evening, and of course, it started right up. No straining from the starter at all. I also went out when he left for work this morning, and the relay just clicked. He gave it a boost with his jumper device, and it started right up, no straining or extra cranking. That's when I checked the alternator output. He didn't have time to check it out any further. I'll have to try the headlight trick.
 






Check your wire inside the positive terminal for corrosion. I had a turn key, click, and everything dead problem. That was causing the problem for me.
 






Mountaineer won't crank at all now. Battery is at 12.6 volts, battery terminals and cables are clean. I put a new relay on the fender - no change, still just clicks. Jumping directly from the positive battery post to the starter wire that attaches to the fender mounted relay (key off) gets nothing. Doing almost anything involving the battery terminals - especially reconnecting the neg cable - results in what sounds like a relay clicking 3 times. Standing in front of the vehicle, it sounds like it's coming from the left fender - either the relay or in the BJB. Leaning over the battery, it sounds like it's coming from the lower left side of the engine, below and possible behind the a/c compressor. At no time do I hear anything from the starter on the right side of the engine.
 






Headlights do not dim when turning the key to start.
 






" I've jumped across terminals with a screwdriver many times in the past, just not on this one."
So do it on this one to rule in / out solenoid ....
 






I installed a new solenoid, and still just get a click. This starter wire pushes onto the solenoid terminal. If you push the wire up far enough to make contact with a screwdriver, the wire won't be in contact with the terminal, so I jumped from the positive battery post directly to the wire between the starter and solenoid, completely bypassing the solenoid. Nothing happened, no sound from the starter at all.

If Grandpa duties and the weather cooperate today, I'll look for a broken connection/bad wire. I don't think power is getting to the starter.
 






I have jumped every combination of the 3 terminals of the relay on the fender. The most I get is a click at the relay. I do not get the strong spark expected. I checked the voltage and load tested the battery, and it's fine. The positive cable end is the original and in good condition. I can peel back the insulation enough to see that there is no corrosion.

I found where the extra clicking is coming from. There's a smallish black auxiliary power box mounted on the fender next to the battery. If the key is in the run position, a relay in the box clicks 2 or 3 times, pauses a few seconds, and clicks the 2 or 3 times again. Can't get the top off without disconnecting and removing the battery and the box as it's too close to the lip of the fender. No idea what those relays are for. All I have is the Haynes Manual with a somewhat generic '96-99 wiring diagram.

I haven't been under the truck to check the starter yet due to morning rain and a 3 yr old grandson who needs too much of my attention. Plus, it's parked beside the driveway with the right front tire in a depression, leaving just a few inches of clearance.
 






Yeah, time to see what’s going on underneath
 






I installed a new starter today. Had the old one tested at O'Reilly. It was totally dead on their tester, just like it was in the Mountaineer. Unlike many of the other projects I've tackled recently, this one went pretty well. Both bolts came out easily, which was a huge relief! When I got it off and set it down, it sounded like something inside was loose or broken.
The only issues were 1) the new starter came without a nut for the large terminal and the threads were bunged up. I'd left the nut on the old one which I'd already turned in, so I took one off the old relay and used it to clean the threads up.
2) The tang that keeps the cable from moving on the starter terminal is broken off, and the first time I connected the battery, the starter spun. Took me a minute to realize the cable end had moved as it was tightened and was touching the other terminal. I had a time tightening the nut while keeping the cable from moving as the starter was already bolted on the engine.

Not a difficult job, but not as quick and easy as changing the starter in the '94 Explorer I used to have. Starters only last about 11 months on it for some reason. I could change that one in about 10 minutes, including getting the tools out and put away. The last time it was -10 F in a McDonald's parking lot.
 






Sohc engine starters are a pita!! I feel your pain. I’ve done a few of them recently

The last one the upper bolt cross threaded so I had to remove the starter again and chase the threads… not fun from underneath with limited space!!
 






This one was a 5.0, so not too bad. My biggest concern before I started was the bolts being corroded and not wanting to loosen, but they came out with no problems.
 






^——————- doofus lol
 






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