Ball Joints and Wheel Bearings

[jahribar]

Lower ball joints were bad and one wheel bearing too. Decided to change upper and lower ball joints and wheel bearings on both sides. 2001 Explorer 4wd SOHC. I've done a search and didn't find information pertinent to my situation.

Predicament 1: When I pressed the driver side lower bearing out (a pain even with a breaker bar and press) and inserted the new, it went in without the press and seems to be loose. I mean it will spin in the lower arm. I checked the part number from Moog and it's correct, K8695T. I'm a little concerned, should I be? The only thing holding that ball joint in is the snap ring!

Predicament 2: When I removed the bearings, there seems to be a seal on the axle that "rides" against the wheel bearing/knuckle. It's like a boot, I think it's called an excluder seal? Should this be replaced too along with the bearings? It looks like some of the grease from inside is seeping out. I didn't see mention of this in other posts when changing wheel bearings.

I spent a good part of 8 hours today fooling with all of this. Any suggestions/comments?

Thanx

 

[sparky2263]

Ford sells the whole arm for $100 (or less) with the joint installed.

I'd get the money back on the Moog and get the right part.

 

[Blee1099]

Some will fall in easily some don't.. The set I installed in mine drop in without any force.. I haven't had any issues with mine. The ones ford has I'm not impressed with. They are non-zerk fitting which means they aren't exactly servicable with a standard grease gun unless you have a needle & silicone handy.

 

[gijoecam]

If the body of the joint moves in the control arm, something is wrong. They should definately not do that. If they did, there's no way your alignment will stay where it's set. Every bump will move the lower ball joint, and eventually oblong the hole.

I'd check the OD of the OEM ball joints against the OD of the aftermarket ones. They should be pretty close.

Also, are you sure the new ball joints are seated in the control arm completely? The snap ring is there to make sure the joint doesn't fall out, but if you look at the way it's set-up, the control arm pushes down against the joint, which pushes the joint up into the arm. If it's not seated in the arm all the way up against the shoulder of the joint, you need to press it in the rest of the way.

-Joe

 

[Turdle]

Yes I agree. The ball joint should go in tight enough to make you cuss it.
It should be almost impossible to press in
Could the control arm be cracked, or not OEM?