Belt Tensioner bolt part number and where to find? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Belt Tensioner bolt part number and where to find?

Joined
August 19, 2022
Messages
28
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City, State
Dayton Ohio
Year, Model & Trim Level
2003 Ford Explorer
Hello again,

I have a 2003 4.6L Ford Explorer.

Changing the belt tensioner and dropped a bolt and it fell down into the fan shroud..... and is considered bye-bye as far as I'm concerned.

There are three bolts- 10 mm.

Does anyone know the part number or where to source?


Searched forum and Tasca with no luck so far. Prefer to steer away from dealership but will go there if needed.

I appreciate any help.

Jason
 



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Nevermind, sorry. Shined a flashlight down there and as able to catch a glimpse of it and eventually was able to get it with magnet extension tool. But I know I would have gotten an answer here. So thanks anyway.
 






Nevermind, sorry. Shined a flashlight down there and as able to catch a glimpse of it and eventually was able to get it with magnet extension tool. But I know I would have gotten an answer here. So thanks anyway.
I'm glad you found it, but it would be a bad idea to have left it there anyway. The wrong bump in the road the the bolt bounces up into the fan, or the belt, or any number of other things that could break when running at high RPM and being jammed up by a 10mm bolt.

By the way, it is a good idea to check the 3 idler pulleys if you needed to change out the tensioner. Give them a spin and make sure they spin freely. Be careful when spinning the larger idler with the grooved pulley, it's easy to get you finger caught. Many times the bearings have gone on the idlers and they spin like they are full of sand, meaning not really at all. If they have gone, the bearings can be replaced with a high quality part for about $10 each. The Motorcraft replacement idlers are $20-$50 more or less depending on which one. There are inexpensive aftermarket idlers available but I suspect the bearings aren't all the great, plus some of them indicate that they won't work the the OE bolt and spacer. I try to stay away from situations like that.

Also, you should have used threadlocker when you reinstalled the bolts for the tensioner. If you didn't, you may want to get some blue threadlocker and re-install them. Old bolts don't always hold torque because the aluminum receiving threads have worn with engine vibration.

LMHmedchem
 






Thanks for your input. Really do appreciate that!!!

Before reading this, I went ahead and installed belt tensioner, a real pain, but once I was able to get the bolts tightened down to allow the ratchet to click and tighten, I torqued them to 32 ft lbs, instead of the 30 ft lbs Ford calls for. Hoping that works, and if not maybe I would hear a problem with noise or something if the bolts are backing out?

This leads me to my next issue.

Put the belt on today. 99% sure I did it right. Quadruple checks and then some, checked the belt to make sure it was routed correctly and on all of the grooves, and also around the power steering area bolt as to not cause a slack problem there. All looked good.

However, as hard as I try, the serpentine belt will not quite make it to the alternator pulley when I fully pull the tensioner down. Very frustrating.

I'm at a loss.

When that happened, I kept checking over things and the belt set up looks all on track.

The belt I have is Driveworks 1010K6 from Advance Auto.

I checked it against the old belt and it seemed to match up.

I have done my own simple alternator install before on this Explorer, and this time I could tell before trying to stretch the belt up to alternator pulley, that it seemed a tad short.

What's my problem?

Maybe it is me, which is quite possible.

But the belt seems a bit short by about a half inch or so and cannot quite make it over the alternator pulley at full pull on the tensioner.

I appreciate any help.

You all are awesome and have helped me out in the past. Thank you!

Also, to add, thanks, and yes I did check all the idlers.

The belt broke when driving, so before thinking about installing the belt I spun them all.

The belt tensioner pulley was wobbling when I spun it and that's what I attributed my belt failure to.

When I removed the tensioner the pulley fell off out through the bottom onto the ground, and I did see one ball bearing on the ground so I assume it came from that?

Great site for help! And I don't spend a lot of time here, but recommend it to others.

Thanks again in advance!
 






Resolved. The belt I had.... was for whatever reason a tad too short. Per the website the belt was supposed to be the right size. However after installing three times with still not enough room to make it over the alternator pulley, I went and got a new belt (Continental 4061010), installed it and it worked out without a hitch. Not sure if this particular belt I got the first time just isn't a good fit for our vehicles, or if it is defective somehow by being slightly short. Below is the belt which would not work. Might help someone in the future. Thanks

Serpentine Belt
$28.99
Driveworks Serpentine Belt
Part # 1010K6
(12 reviews)
1 Yr Replacement If Defective


Exact fit for your 2003 Ford Explorer Limited
Main Drive
 






I generally use Motorcraft for parts like the S-belt. An aftermarket model number would generally be marketed for a number of different engines and so may not fit any of them exactly. The Continental, Gates, and Motorcraft belts all cost more or less the same. I think that both Continental and Gates are solid brands (the non-economy part lines) but I think that the OE part makes the most sense.

I think about it more when there if it's an expensive part or a big cost difference. In any event, avoid economy parts and that is often all you can get at a chain store.

LMHmedchem
 






Thanks for the input, and I agree. The first belt I had appeared to be of lower quality and also with less pronounced ribbing than the Continental as well. I was in a hurry to get this fix done Sunday if possible, and ran to Autozone in search of another belt. I did ask for Motorcraft but they did not have that, but the best thing they said they had was the Continental, so I opted for that. Have a good day and thanks again.
 






I do a weekly search of Rock Auto. I recently scored a lifetime supply (4) Motorcraft serpentine belts for under $6 each for my 1994. I get all kinds of maintenance items through them when they go on wholesale closeout.
 






Circling back to the original issue, is there any reason we couldnt simply use a bolt ordered from mcmaster-carr? Arent they standardized?
 






Circling back to the original issue, is there any reason we couldnt simply use a bolt ordered from mcmaster-carr? Arent they standardized?
No reason at all
I'd have bought one from the hardware store
 












No reason at all
I'd have bought one from the hardware store
I also at times buy from a local hardware store as well as from McMaster-Carr, Belmetric, Fastenal, and a local company here call BoltDepot. My main reason for using these other sites instead of a local store is the selection of available coatings. With all the salt around here I like to use at least Zinc Yellow Chromate plating. My local ACE has quite a few metric bolts with this coating but not everything.

To me, the biggest drawback of McMaster is that you often cannot get single fasteners. The will likely have exactly what you need but you may have to buy anywhere from 5-50 bolts or nuts etc. At the other sites I listed you can get items in whatever number you want, but sometimes they are cheaper if you order more. At BoltDepot, I can order online and then just go and pick up the order, so no shipping. BoltDepot doesn't have a better coating then Zinc plating however. Too bad because there prices are really good as well.

The poster mentioned that these are M10 bolts, but you also have to know the grade of the material, the thread pitch, and the length. I think that you should also pay attention to whether or not it's a bolt, a bolt and separate washer, a flange bolt, a nut and washer, a flange nut, etc, and stick with the original design, though I certainly haven't always done that. Nuts and washers should match the material grade and coating of the bolt.

The material for this part would have to be either Class 8.8 or Class 10.9 steel but I suppose either would work. That would mean that they are likely coarse pitch at 1.5mm, so you would be looking for M10x1.5mm hex bolts or flange bolts. This is only a guess and I don't remember the length at all. As you might guess Ford doesn't exactly spell it out on their website. They would rather have you pay them $4-$5 for each bolt instead of the $0.50 or so from one of these sites. You do have to figure shipping though as sites like McMaster always charge separately for shipping. If these are say M10-1.5mm x 50mm Class 10.9 Zinc Yellow Chromate plated hex bolts, you would have to buy a pack of 10 at McMaster for $12 plus shipping. In that case, for one bolt $4 at the dealer would be a better deal, plus you get it today if they have it. I generally buy from McMaster when I have quite a few items since the shipping often doesn't change with volume.

For a part like this you could always take one off and take it to a local store to find out what it is. I keep a tray full of labeled nuts and bolts to use to figure out what I need. I got tired of running down to ACE to check a bolt. They probably got tired of me as well. Keep in mind that if there are 4 bolts holding a part onto the engine block, they may not all be the same. I know that the 3 idlers don't all use the same length bolts.

LMHmedchem
 






Good input. Thank you.

Not sure if I should start another thread, but figured I would leave this here....

The Explorer seems to be running fine with the new belt.

The cause of the original problem caused the Explorer to start throwing dash warning lights when the belt came off and starting to overheat and lose battery charge. I realize the engine has a failsafe mode, but thankfully I was able to get home and park it before everything really started to go haywire.

I noticed today that the "Service Engine Soon" light is still on during start-up and driving (I hadn't driven it since installing new belt, I only started it to make sure belt was working just right).

Wondering if just disconnecting the negative battery cable for a bit will likely clear this Service Engine Soon light???? Again, it seems to be running and driving perfectly fine other than that.

Thanks all!!!!
 






I noticed today that the "Service Engine Soon" light is still on during start-up and driving (I hadn't driven it since installing new belt, I only started it to make sure belt was working just right).

Wondering if just disconnecting the negative battery cable for a bit will likely clear this Service Engine Soon light???? Again, it seems to be running and driving perfectly fine other than that.
I think you would have to disconnect and then jump the negative terminal to ground to do that. Even then, I am not sure if that would clear. If you try, you have to restart the computer in the right way after reconnecting so look up how to do that. It just involves turning the key part way, etc. I don't remember the procedure off hand.

What you should do is hook up with a code reader to make sure there are no codes to be concerned about and then you can clear the indicator with the code reader. If you don't have a code reader, it is a pretty good thing to have if you plan on doing work on your 20 year old truck. You will certainly use it.

If you have a laptop or portable device with a USB port, allot of users here get a USB cable that connects to the ODBII port and runs to software. This is a popular model,

OBDLink SX USB: Professional Grade OBD-II Automotive Scan Tool for Windows ($49.95)

It comes with its own software that has a nice dashboard and the standard tools and works on most vehicles. You can also use it with the free FORScan software that has many diagnostic and repair modules.

I have not used it, but this is the same kind of link that is designed to just use with FORScan (or some other packages), meaning it doesn't come with its own software application.

FORScan ELM327 OBD2 USB Adapter for Windows ($21.95)

That is a pretty good price for the functionality it gives.

If you don't want to get something like this, just go to an autoparts store and tell them that you would like to use their code reader to clear the codes from your truck. Most local mechanics would do that for you as well.

LMHmedchem
 












I also at times buy from a local hardware store as well as from McMaster-Carr, Belmetric, Fastenal, and a local company here call BoltDepot. My main reason for using these other sites instead of a local store is the selection of available coatings. With all the salt around here I like to use at least Zinc Yellow Chromate plating. My local ACE has quite a few metric bolts with this coating but not everything.

To me, the biggest drawback of McMaster is that you often cannot get single fasteners. The will likely have exactly what you need but you may have to buy anywhere from 5-50 bolts or nuts etc. At the other sites I listed you can get items in whatever number you want, but sometimes they are cheaper if you order more. At BoltDepot, I can order online and then just go and pick up the order, so no shipping. BoltDepot doesn't have a better coating then Zinc plating however. Too bad because there prices are really good as well.

The poster mentioned that these are M10 bolts, but you also have to know the grade of the material, the thread pitch, and the length. I think that you should also pay attention to whether or not it's a bolt, a bolt and separate washer, a flange bolt, a nut and washer, a flange nut, etc, and stick with the original design, though I certainly haven't always done that. Nuts and washers should match the material grade and coating of the bolt.

The material for this part would have to be either Class 8.8 or Class 10.9 steel but I suppose either would work. That would mean that they are likely coarse pitch at 1.5mm, so you would be looking for M10x1.5mm hex bolts or flange bolts. This is only a guess and I don't remember the length at all. As you might guess Ford doesn't exactly spell it out on their website. They would rather have you pay them $4-$5 for each bolt instead of the $0.50 or so from one of these sites. You do have to figure shipping though as sites like McMaster always charge separately for shipping. If these are say M10-1.5mm x 50mm Class 10.9 Zinc Yellow Chromate plated hex bolts, you would have to buy a pack of 10 at McMaster for $12 plus shipping. In that case, for one bolt $4 at the dealer would be a better deal, plus you get it today if they have it. I generally buy from McMaster when I have quite a few items since the shipping often doesn't change with volume.

For a part like this you could always take one off and take it to a local store to find out what it is. I keep a tray full of labeled nuts and bolts to use to figure out what I need. I got tired of running down to ACE to check a bolt. They probably got tired of me as well. Keep in mind that if there are 4 bolts holding a part onto the engine block, they may not all be the same. I know that the 3 idlers don't all use the same length bolts.

LMHmedchem

These are exactly the kind of things I was thinking of. There is also metallurgical stuff IIRC stainless steel bolts and aluminum are no bueno. I bet you could go to the parts counter of a ford dealer and buy one. That should be guaranteed compatible.
 






Thanks for input.

Just a minor update.... Yesterday, I disconnected the negative battery terminal for about 5 minutes, then reconnected. The Service Engine Soon light disappeared and remains off.
 






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