Cheap lifts ....

[Lamah]

i hate ti sound cheap, but i dont have a whole lot of money. What would be the cheapest lift kit for the money ? i dont want somthing thats gonna break on me, but i cant afford to buy the best. i only want like a 4" lift at most.

also, if you know of any reasonably priced brush bars, i'm lookin for one of those too.

thanks,
jeff Aka Lamah

 

[Clint]

2 inch skyjacker susp. and a 2-3 inch body lift would be the best and cheapest lift u could get for the money because a 4 inch suspension lift would be alot compared to just a 3 inch body lift and the skyjacker lift i think the skyjacker kit is 260 and the body is 150 bringing u to 410 bucks for 4-5 inches maybe this helps

 

[Lamah]

would that be room enough to get some nice size tires on there ? like 33 inchers without rubbing ?

 

[Clint]

go to the before and after and i know jayr has a 2 inch suspension lift and a 2 inch body and he clears 33's not sure about rubbing but i know a 5 inch lift would clear 33's easy

 

[Lamah]

also, how hard is it to install a body lift ? and how hard on a suspention lift. and lastly, which should be done first as far as ease of installment.

 

[Lamah]

ok, cool. www.4wheelparts.com has a 3 inch body lift for 83.95 or so. and the skyjacker 1.5-2 inch lift for 170.

thanks for the advice, now all i need is the money

Jeff aka Lamah

 

[Clint]

since this would be your first body lift i would suggest only going with a 2 inch body lift over the 3 for ease of installation follow the instructions and u would be fine maybe a little tricky on the bumper relocators but usually that works out fine to i would do this first and then the skyjacker lift ,it is pretty easy it requires replacing the coils and adding a add-a-leaf which u could do in an evening

 

[Lamah]

hrmm, sounds good. I may end up goind with the 3 to avoid having to change it later. i like to think of myself as mechanically inclined =/. heh.
plus i dont see a trail master 2" on this one site, and the 3 inch is still cheaper then the other brands 2"

also, i'm seeing this lift lip thing that blocks then engine when you lift it and it creates a gap. would that be worth it or could i rig somthing up myself for that (if its even neccisary)

thanks again,
Jeff aka Lamah

 

[mdrut]

Hey Jeff, if you do the 2+2=4 you are looking at about $500 when it is said and done..that's what I also have..I am running 31's but I think I could clear 33's without rub. Check it out in my signature..

 

[Lamah]

actually, i've found it for like about 325 or so what i really like about this idea, is that, for one thing, its cheap to begin with, and two, i dont have to pay it all at once.
also, when people talk about the rubbing, do they mean with the top or the sides ? cause i'd think that it wouldnt be able to turn nearly as far. *shrug*

btw, nice truck

Jeff aka Lamah

 

[mdrut]

Don't forget the camber bushings and ailignment...Even if you do the lift yourself, you still gotta take it to the frontend shop for camber adjustment..When you order your lift, MAKE SURE you tell them you want the camber bushings...You can not drive it without them..And thanks for the truck comment..

 

[Lamah]

hrmm, camber bushings, eh. i guess i'll deal with that when i get the suspention lift. if i can clear 33's or even 32's i may just go with the 3" body lift.

 

[bigDerk]

Heck, if you wanted to go even cheaper, you could do the F150 spacer/Warrior shackle lift combined with a 2 or 3" body lift... I just did the spacer/shackle lift on my 94, and it's really cheap (although its only a 1.5"/1.75" lift). The spacers are about $30, shackles are about $45, and the alignment was around $70 (needed new adjustable camber bushings)... then a body lift would be around $85-95 I think, not counting any extra parts you might need...

 

[Lamah]

what are these camber bushings you all are talking about ?

and also, if a stock 91 can take 30's without rubbing, would a 3 inch lift be enough for 33's since the body would be 3 inches higher, and the wheels would be 3 inches higher

 

[Randall]

It doesn't quite work out that way. I have a 6.5 inch lift with 33's and they still rubbed on the sway bars. Solution=removal of sway bars. But in general you have to remember that you need enough room to turn the wheel throughout its natural arc. the 33's will fit in the wheel wells with no problem, even at no lift, but you won't be able to turn them.

 

[John Doe]

I was running 30x9.5's on my stock explorer with 15x7 rims and after I got my 3" body lift I put 32x11.5 on the same rims and they still rubbed a little until I trimed it. There was no way I would've been able to fit 33's though, but some explorer's are different and can fit a 33 with only a 3" body lift.

 

[Lamah]

bah, heh. would 32's be enough for standard off roading ? and what do you mean by "before you trimmed"?

also, i'm still confused. when you guys talk about rubbing, do you mean it rubs when you turn the wheel real far or do you mean its rubs on the top of the wheel well when you hit a bump ?


thanks,
Jeff aka Lamah

 

[John Doe]

I had to trim a little of the inside fender because when I turned the wheel it would rub. That's all it rubbed though. There's plenty of clearance in the wheel well that it won't rub when I hit a bump.

 

[Randall]

Both, or either. The 33's rub when steering especially, but when I was running them in the rear with less lift, they made contact when they hit bumps.

 

[Dannyboy]

My 2 cents

Don't get a body lift without relocating the bumpers, they are fairly easy to custom make but I wouldn't waste your time with the trim lip or whatever that is. Getting those bumpers up in the air is half the battle with rubbing in front. Check out my setup, Splashman should have a pic or two of my 32's and 3" body lift soon.
My question: If you add a coil spacer you need an alignment? What if I was aligned 2 months ago?