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HID Projector 04 Explorer

I used to have a 2007 Mazda 3 with HID projector headlights. I miss the HID, and would like them on the 04 Explorer. I've been doing a lot of reading on the topic, but honestly, I'm a little confused. Based on my reading it looks like I will have to do a retrofit. There are lots of options like morimoto, fx-35, etc. I don't know what's good and what's bad. What should I be looking for? What are the trade offs? I'm still trying to get up to speed on this topic.

Thanks
 



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whats up... you can try this link on the bottom...its a forum and also a store where they sell alot of retrofit items to help you out...also alot of topics and how to's so you can read about it...goodluck with it

make sure you go to the forum section ...

www.hidplanet.com
 






As not8taxi mentions, HIDPlanet is a great source of information about the various projectors, pros and cons of each model (beam width, high beam depth, sharp cutoff, for starters), as well as bulb, ballast, wiring, etc...

To get the best performance, a retrofit is pretty much your only choice. None of the so-called projector aftermarket assemblies are worth anything, other than giving you a set to work with (and they are easier to open than your OEM assemblies). The 1st decision you'll face is how much effort you're willing to put into it. Spending top $$$ on the best combination of hardware is not going to yield the best output if you don't do it right. A common compromise between cost, effort and performance is to install the Morimoto Mini (H1 or D2S). What's most important to you based on your style/area of driving?
 






A common compromise between cost, effort and performance is to install the Morimoto Mini (H1 or D2S). What's most important to you based on your style/area of driving?
When I had the 07 Mazda3 I really liked the increased light output for night driving. I am mostly interested in improving night vision. I'm not looking for anything too showy.
 






... I am mostly interested in improving night vision. I'm not looking for anything too showy. ...

What I meant by "style/area" of driving was whether you were looking for added visibility in poorly lighted area such as country roads or just basic urban areas and highways. This thread and this thread have a decent rundown of the properties of the best projectors. Unfortunately, they are not the easiest to work with. I had a set of FX-R in a previous retrofit, good wide beam, not much so on high beam (but I use a pair of 100W and 120W offroad lights for country roads), and they were a handful to retrofit. One assembly was destoyed by a horny deer, so I rebuilt with Mini D2S. Not quite as good as the FX-R, but quite capable for urban areas and somewhat well lighted highways.

If this will be your 1st retrofit, I'd personally keep it simple and relatively cheap.
 






What's most important to you based on your style/area of driving?
I'm basically a urban/city driver. No back roads, no country roads. I tend to use my fog lights more that my high beams. I have viewed at your threads on retrofitting and have been very impressed. Those are a little more involved than what I am looking for in a first retrofit. Any particular suggestions for sourcing the assemblies?
 






The Morimoto Mini is the easiest and quickest way to go. Basically:
1. Crack open the headlight assembly
2. Insert the Mini
3. Install on the X and adjust the rotation
4. Lock rotation in place
5. Reseal the headlight assembly
6. Install a wiring harness
7. Install the headlight assembly
8. Use original adjustment screw to get the vertical alignment right

Done.

You may have to dremel out the opening on the reflector to get the Mini to fit. I had to do that with the Mini D2S, but I believe the Mini H1 is a more direct fit (don't quote me on that!).
 






As always great info divemaster...

Icepick- be sure to read and research to see what suits u best...goodluck with it
 






A common compromise between cost, effort and performance is to install the Morimoto Mini (H1 or D2S).
What size shrouds should I consider for the Morimoto Minis? Would like to find a shroud that fits the mini but still looks appropriate in size relative the the housing. Any suggestions?
 






What size shrouds should I consider for the Morimoto Minis? Would like to find a shroud that fits the mini but still looks appropriate in size relative the the housing. Any suggestions?

That's a rather timely question, as I'm going through another retrofit for a friend and he's wondering about that.

That is somewhat a matter of taste and it also depends on which Mini you go with: H1 vs D2S...

The Explorer's reflector is quite larger, so I don't think that the Mini Gatling Gun or the Mini Graphite quite fill out the space adequately. If you decide to go with the D2S, those 2 shrouds don't fit anyway, so that decision is already made for you.

Another issue that you have to address is the darn turn signal reflector "notch". It protrudes into the main reflector and cuts down on your choices, unless you're willing the hack the shrout a bit or vacuum-form your own (you don't want to go there!). The larger (bottom) dimension of the Gatling Gun is a hair over 4.5", and that is about as large are you want it (check the photos below, and you'll see that it barely clears). The Apollo shroud is a hair over 5" and requires trimming.

Personally, I prefer the Gatling Gun. I think it has the right balance of size and it actually fits. It fits both the D2S and the H1 (with an adapter ring). Sorry for the dusty pics, I just finished trimming the housing for the D2S.

Gatling Gun on D2S (De-chromed, painted and modified with LED ring):
GatlingGun.jpg

MiniD2SwithGatlingGuninHousing.jpg


Mini Graphite on H1:
MiniGraphite.jpg


Mini Gatling Gun:
MiniGatlingGun.jpg
 






What size shrouds should I consider for the Morimoto Minis? Would like to find a shroud that fits the mini but still looks appropriate in size relative the the housing. Any suggestions?

One more thing. If you're still debating H1 vs D2S: the H1 is a superior projector, in my opinion. However, the D2S does have better bulb availability (the OSRAM CBI kick a**, I have them on my 2000 BMW), but the better bulb does not make up for the less performing projector. Also, the H1 requires a little less trimming of the reflector, due to the smaller diameter of the projector end (although you'll still to trim the depth of the rear of the reflector).
 






One more thing. If you're still debating H1 vs D2S: the H1 is a superior projector, in my opinion. However, the D2S does have better bulb availability (the OSRAM CBI kick a**, I have them on my 2000 BMW), but the better bulb does not make up for the less performing projector. Also, the H1 requires a little less trimming of the reflector, due to the smaller diameter of the projector end (although you'll still to trim the depth of the rear of the reflector).
I was leaning towards the H1 because it should require less effort to retrofit.
 






Another issue that you have to address is the darn turn signal reflector "notch". It protrudes into the main reflector and cuts down on your choices. The larger (bottom) dimension of the Gatling Gun is a hair over 4.5", and that is about as large are you want it (check the photos below, and you'll see that it barely clears). The Apollo shroud is a hair over 5" and requires trimming
Wow, your postings are very helpu. Agreed the mini shrouds are too small, based on the size of the reflector housing. I was seriously thinking about the Apollo shroud, but didn't realize the trimming involved with those. I want to keep this simple, so Gatling Gun may be a good option. I have also considered some type of LED or CCFL ring around the shroud, but suspect that may be more involved than I want to tackle at this time. Any advise or tips on that topic?
 






... I was seriously thinking about the Apollo shroud, but didn't realize the trimming involved with those. ...

I have to somewhat take back the statement that the Apollo shroud won't fit. It didn't fit the D2S, because that projector is slightly shorter. Being shorter, the shroud sits deeper into the reflector, skewing the projector towards the outside. I just did a quick test fit of an Apollo on an H1, and it is tolerable (the shroud hits the turn signal notch, but I don't think it will affect the alignment too badly).

MiniH1andApollo.jpg


... I have also considered some type of LED or CCFL ring around the shroud, but suspect that may be more involved than I want to tackle at this time. Any advise or tips on that topic?

I'm not a fan of CCFL. With that said, however, I understand they are more reliable than LED (depending of course on the supplier, "you get what you pay for" kind of thing). LEDs are, at least for me, easier to work with. For the last few retrofits I've done, I've used these guys: SuperBrightLEDs Accent Lights with the associated plastic covers to act somewhat as a difuser (you can still see the individual LEDs as you get close). I put a set of them on a Yamaha R6 retrofit in early 2010 and it is still running fine. If one side fails, I'll just clip the wires on both sides and the plastic cover will act as a cosmetic piece. On my Ex, I glued a set of orange rings with difuser to act as suplemental turn signals. Since I use switchback (White/Orange) LEDs for my turn signals, I don't really need the running-light effect that a CCFL or LED ring would give me. I did mount a pair of 100mm and 80mm white LED rings backwards behind the shroud, to reflect back into the reflector to add some depth to the retrofit: with such a large reflector and a small projector, I didn't like the effect of the tiny light when the HID is on...
If you have a steady hand (dremel) and you can use a soldering gun, it is a piece of cake to work with: 2 wires. I don't like to use crimps for jobs inside the housing. I also use a hot glue gun to keep everything together. The biggest issue is to get the wires out of the housing, and connect them to the existing wiring harness. I just drill small individual holes in the bottom of the housing, slide in some 20AWG wire, hot glue around the wires to seal them, and you can them crimp the other end to the existing harness.
 






Gatling Gun on D2S (De-chromed, painted and modified with LED ring):
GatlingGun.jpg
Thank for posting your pics of all the shrouds. It's very helpful. Is that that Gatling Gun 1.0 or 2.0 in your pic? What size CCFL did you use for mounting on the GG shroud.

Thanks again for all your help.
 






Thank for posting your pics of all the shrouds. It's very helpful. Is that that Gatling Gun 1.0 or 2.0 in your pic? What size CCFL did you use for mounting on the GG shroud.

Thanks again for all your help.

You're welcome. I've gotten a lot of help from this forum, I've just glad I can help someone else in return.

I'm using the original Gatling (I guess it is v1.0), not the v2.0. It think it has a slightly flater front surface, which made it easier to fit the LED ring. I don't have a v2.0 in hand... I used an 80mm ring, the 15-LED version. 60mm, 80mm and 100mm refers to the outer diameter. There is a 54-LED version, but I found it too bright for my taste. It may work for you if you're trying to get the BMW running lights / angel eye look. I did have to trim the outer edge of the plastic difuser to get the combination to sit flush, and to make it easier to glue.

MiniD2SwithModifiedGatlingGun.jpg
 






I just occurred to me The Gen3 headlight assembly is a little different than your headlight assembly. On the Gen3 the turn signal notch is a high beam notch. Using a bi-xenon projector while keeping the existing high beam has bothered me a little, but it looks like Gen3 owners just deal with it. See pic below.


I'm not sure what I will end up doing with Angel Eye look, but will probably skip it this time around. I like the look but not sure in this situation. The LED with the diffuser seems a little wider than I would like. I've also thought about mounting the inside the shroud to illuminate the side vents. Looks like 100MM is required for inside mounting. See pics for examples.

Be sure to post pics of your friend's retrofit. I'd like to see the final product.

Gen3 Retrofit
attachment.jpg


Gatling Shroud with CCFL inside.
attachment.jpg

attachment.jpg

attachment.jpg
 






I just occurred to me The Gen3 headlight assembly is a little different than your headlight assembly. On the Gen3 the turn signal notch is a high beam notch. Using a bi-xenon projector while keeping the existing high beam has bothered me a little, but it looks like Gen3 owners just deal with it. See pic below.

I'm not sure what I will end up doing with Angel Eye look, but will probably skip it this time around. I like the look but not sure in this situation. The LED with the diffuser seems a little wider than I would like. I've also thought about mounting the inside the shroud to illuminate the side vents. Looks like 100MM is required for inside mounting. See pics for examples.

Be sure to post pics of your friend's retrofit. I'd like to see the final product.

I didn't even realize you had a 2004 until now. Duh... That throws a lot of my help out the window, sorry.

The nice thing about getting your feet wet with a simple install like the Mini H1 is that you will have an easy time reopening the assembly later, when you decide to upgrade. If you use the butyl rubber stuff from TRS, it's a snap to get the housing open again, I just did!

I liked the blacked out look of the modified Gatling so much, I tore into my own Ex today and redid mine to match. I like the way the black of the shroud reflects into the reflector, without being a totally blacked out reflector. Gives it kind of a ghostly look.

I should have pics of the whole thing installed tomorrow, maybe a quick video too, but this is what we're both ending up with:

Assembled.jpg


Assembled-BackRingON.jpg
 






I didn't even realize you had a 2004 until now. Duh... That throws a lot of my help out the window, sorry.
I should have pics of the whole thing installed tomorrow, maybe a quick video too.
Looking good. No worries, I am after concepts & ideas. Your advice is spot on. TRS had a good black friday weekend sale and I went ahead and ordered. Now I need to get some OEM assemblies on order.

Does your friend's also have dual LED's mounted backwards in the shroud? I'd like to see some pics of those as well if you have them. What type of paint did you use for painting the housing and shroud black?

Once I finish this project, I may want to have a separate conversation regarding LEDs in other locations like taillights and turn signals.

Thanks
 



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... Does your friend's also have dual LED's mounted backwards in the shroud? I'd like to see some pics of those as well if you have them. What type of paint did you use for painting the housing and shroud black?

Unfortunately, I didn't take pictures of the back rings, sorry. Basically, I use 4 small plastic tubes (cut up from dead Bic pens, gotta recycle!) to create a set of stand-offs, and glued those to flat part of the back of the projector. Then 4 thin but sturdy plastic strips (cut up from one of my wife's leftover Tupperware containers, she won't miss it!) to tie together the 100mm and 80mm rings. Then I glued the combined rings to the stand-offs. That's it. If I ever do it again, I'd probably stage the 2 rings rather than tie them together. I thing I'd get a better reflective effect if the 100mm was more recessed. With the 2 rings tied together, the 80mm pushes the assembly forward, since it cannot clear the bowl of the projector.

The only difference between my setup and his setup is that my Ex is black and his is blue. Other than that, he's getting an identical configuration.

As far as paint, I dechromed the shrouds first, using oven cleaner (bleach works too, for more complex or larger pieces). It took a couple of cleaner/rinse cycles, but eventually you end up with this:

Shroud-Dechromed-2.jpg


Then a couple of thin layers of Rust-Oleum Self Etching Primer, followed by Rust-Oleum High Heat enamel (thin dusting first, then 3 thicker layers). From there, into the oven for 15 minutes or so, on the lowest setting (200F in my case). Last step was Rust-Oleum Clear Enamel, only a couple of layers, to get a more reflective effect. And again in the oven for 30 minutes (oven off, pre-heated to the lowest setting). From what I've gathered, if you're going to do a clear coat, you have to make sure it is the same type as the actual paint, Enamel+Enamel, or Acrylic+Acrylic. Enamel+Acrylic makes for a bad combination.
 






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