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How To: Replace shocks in an Aerostar.

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Shock replacement is pretty much a straight forward job unless you have an old vehicle with a lot of rust. Specialty tools are great while installing new parts with no rust. As you will see later on, the most basic tools get the job done while some specialty tools create new issues. We will now begin shock replacement in the front of the vehicle.

These parts are highly recommended when you purchase your replacement shocks:
M8_bolts_clips_.jpg

Take a look at what the old parts look like at the top of the photo. This will happen on at least two out of four lower bolts since they get severely rusted. As you could see, the top gets rusted as well:
The_top_of_the_old_shock_.jpg

This is the tool set which is used for installing new shocks:
Lisle_63400_strut_remover_tool_.jpg

As you will soon see, this tool is not recommended for removing rusted shocks:
Part_of_the_shock_cracked_off_.jpg

The rusted stud cracked off into the tool creating a new job. :mad: The only way to remove the broken stud is to drill a hole through it, then pry it out:
Drill_a_hole_then_pry_it_out_.jpg

A nut cracker will come in handy if you want to remove the nut without having to turn the threaded rod on the shock:
Nut_cracker_.jpg

The nut cracker worked, but the nut still has to be removed:
The_nut_cracker_worked_.jpg

A special curved jaw narrow pliers will come in handy while holding the stud:
Special_curved_pliers_.jpg

This pliers will work on the upper stud, and the lower retainer on the bottom of the shock.

This is the preferred method to remove the upper stud:
Locking_wrench_.jpg

This method is also good:
Vise_Grip_.jpg

You don't have to worry about cracking anything off into a tool. The curved pliers will hold the stud in place once the nut is high enough:
The_curved_pliers_are_holding_the_stud_.jpg

A small piece of PVC pipe will give extra leverage, and feel more comfortable to hold instead of holding a box wrench:
PVC_pipe_over_the_box_wrench_.jpg

The next step is to remove the lower part of the shock in the next installment.
 






The two lower bolts will have to be removed. The factory retainer & bolt are rusted so expect to break two out of four bolts & retainers. This is the bottom of the shock:
The_bottom_of_the_old_shock_.jpg

In an ideal situation, all you would have to do is remove two bolts with a ratchet. You might be able to remove the first bolt this way, but expect to hold the retainer for the second one since it will crack off. There are two ways to hold this retainer. The first way is to use a ratchet, but there is limited access:
Hold_the_inner_nut_in_place_if_it_turns_.jpg

A 1/4" drive will barely fit. The next method is to use the curved jaw pliers since they are small enough to fit between the coil spring.

Here's a side by side comparison of the new & old shocks:
New_old_shock_comparison_.jpg

The only way to install them is through the bottom, so a floor jack will be used:
A_floor_jack_pushes_the_shock_into_place_.jpg

Here's what it looks like after the bolts are tightened:
The_bottom_of_the_new_shock_.jpg

Use new bolts & fasteners instead of old, rusty ones. Here's the top view:
The_top_of_the_new_shock_.jpg

The shocks are now installed.
 






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