M90 rebuild (rudy)

well figured i would start a new thread.just a quick background.did the whole build on my explorer but built it using stock head gaskets and head bolts.did it really as a safety net and i just couldnt afford head studs at the time.well to say the least i blew the head gaskets off from it wile i was in the mountains on a forum trip about two years later.

i picked up a 1994 ranger,its got the 4.0 OHV and is a 5 speed 2wd.the plan is to pull the motor out of the explorer and rebuild it.

this thread will basically cover the rebuild and build up of the new ranger.it will basically end up as a street race truck.ive named it Rudy so let the fun begin.


UPDATE
new motor specs
BORE: 4" JE asymmetrical pistons (custom over bore)

RODS: 6.058 Manley (longer rod)

VALVES: IN-1.8 EX-1.5 Manley heavy duty (.150 over)

Transmission:T5 hybrid from a 2006 Mustang and 93 Fox
HEADS: 93TM HEAVILY ported with custom brass guides and copper gaskets/O-ringed with ARP studs
CAM: 422 Comp cams with 988 springs and Toms custom lifters,push rods and 1.7 roller rockers
Complete blueprint and balanced internals
GM M90 supercharged with one 1" intercooler plates with ASP 8 rib belt conversion. .
pushing 16 lbs of boost with small shot of NOS
Running on E50
Dyno tuned by Dyno Tune Performance outa Virginia using SCT

old thread and pic
3800 M90 Build
ported and polished gm 3800 gen 2 m90
Water to air intercooled
port matched 76mm inlet and intake tube
mustang 75mm race tb
90mm maf
36lb injectors
255 fuel pump
sct 5bank dyno tuned
2.7" pulley 10lbs of boost!!

and the new 1994 ranger 4.0 OHV 5 speed 2WD with 115,000 miles on it.o and i only paid $1,000 for it:shifty_ey
RUDY

 

[Turdle]

You rest up!

 

[mr cribb]

Hope ya get to feeling better man. I have the same lower back destruction, but have been told three times it isn't repairable with surgery.

 

[jd4242]

Thanks everyone. .im doing ok..still in TONS of pain..can't really walk and cant really bend/twist or anything. .been stuck in bed for days..they had to keep me an extra day in the hospital, they said the disc was worse than they thought and had wayy more particle matter around it also..

Just need to rest up and ill be back at it in no time..thanks again for the support yall;-)

 

[GRNMACHINE]

Hope you are doing Better jd!!!!

 

[jd4242]

Little update and probably last for awile till more funds come in..im doing well,been up moving around for about last couple days and even driving. .recoving faster than the docs or i thought..still have some pain and swollen. Cant bend or twist yet but its not even been 2 weeks so..

I sold the red ranger last Saturday, THANK GOD!!all the money went to my lawyer and im still outa work for another 6 weeks.im getting disability checks but they barely cover bills.

Game plan for now is still for the new motor to be put on hold..i just cant afford the machine cost for the block and heads to be done or for the parts for my T5 :-( but doesn't mean work on truck has to stop.obviously i cant do anything for a couple more weeks as im not gonna push my back..but i have ordered my poly body mounts and cutting 1/2" round pucks outa some aluminum scrap i have..im only going to add 1/2" to the body mounts..ive looked over the mounts on the truck and everyone is cracked and crushed ALOT..im assuming im gonna gain some lift with the poly mounts plus i only raised the motor 3/8" of an inch to clear the sohc oil pan..hopefully the poly mounts and 1/2" pucks raise the body enough to clear the second IC..

After i install the poly mounts and pucks i will be lowering the truck 2"..the rear i have adjustable shackles but will have to install bolt in C-notches and notch the frame..the front i have moog progressive coils so debating cutting some outa the ""dead" coils or getting 2" drop coils..the shocks will be fine as i ordered them measured for roughly a 5" drop. .currently i have 3" front and about 4.5" in rear..

I also wanna get the truck back on the lift and try to spin my cut outs some so the dont or wont drag over bumps or driveways..need to try and get a new motor for the driverside cutout,it dragged and took the wires/edge of motor off..passengers still looks fine,just the wires got ripped off..

Till then the truck is running good..pulls hard for a NA motor.launching with solid mounts and 295s stickn to the road is pretty fun,definitely puts a twist to the truck and takes off..lol

Ps..ill accept all donations for the machinist cost for new motor if anyone wants to donate. .haha thanks again for all the support with my back

 

[4pointslow]

recovery

glad to hear you are recovering. Don't over do it now, we don't want to hear about any relapses!

 

[mr cribb]

glad to hear you are recovering. Don't over do it now, we don't want to hear about any relapses!

Lol... That's funny right there, I don't care who ya are! (In my best Larry the Cable Guy voice)

 

[jd4242]

Also just ordered all my bearings. I went with CLEVITE / PERFECT CIRCLE tri-metal for the mains and cam.the rod bearings i had to order from Australia,the are ACL race bearings 6B2150H.i ordered two sets,one in .10 and one in .20

https://www.mdspares.com.au/products/335/ACL-Race-Series-Conrod-Bearing-Set-6B2150H

 

[Dono]

I'll bite... how did you ever find the ACL bearings?

 

[jd4242]

I'll bite... how did you ever find the ACL bearings?

The were sugested by Manley for the XR6 rods..noone is the US carried bearings for the falcon rods..i hope there good bearings, only found a couple threads where people were using them,but again it was all Australia threads.so searching was hard

 

[Dono]

I wen't with the H series tri metal also. That's what Ford Strokers uses, so that's what I went with again.
I'm sure the ACL bearings will work great. The odds of that motor not coming apart for some reason within 50,000 to 100,000 miles is pretty good anyway. easy to check the bearings when the motor is out.
We seem to have our motors out quite a bit.

 

[jd4242]

I wen't with the H series tri metal also. That's what Ford Strokers uses, so that's what I went with again.
I'm sure the ACL bearings will work great. The odds of that motor not coming apart for some reason within 50,000 to 100,000 miles is pretty good anyway. easy to check the bearings when the motor is out.
We seem to have our motors out quite a bit.

Really?thats good then,i have seen good reviews from other motor models just not alot from the XR6..lol and yea thats why i went ahead and ordered two sets

 

[jd4242]

So i definitely am getting impatient as far as motor work goes and getting nervous having so expensive of parts just laying around..

Sooo i called my buddy over at the machine shop aand discussed possibility doing work in in 3 phases. .

First being the crank,rods and balancing..the big end of the rods need to be slightly narrowed or what hes suggesting is to enlarge the crank journals. .the crank needs to be machined to match the specs of the XR6 rods.the crank has already been turned .010 so it needs to be checked against the bearings to see if it falls in spec..i ordered two sets of bearings for the rods .010 and .020 just incase it fell between the two the crank could be turned to match..only problem is with balancing, he needs all pistons parts,rods,harmonic balancer and the flywheel..i dont have the fly wheel yet,so cant proceed till i order it..ill put a link at bottom with what flywheel i need..

Second phase would be the block..hes going to sonic test it to see if it does have enough to take a .060 (4") overbore,if not hes going to sleeve it..i almost want him to sleeve it no matter what but he hasnt told me a cost and i know it wont be cheap..but if its safer i dont care about cost..the block also is getting o-ring groves put in it but wont do this till he gets the head.he is going to do a double o-ring..

Last is the heads..valve need to be fit if they will fit.i may have to sell the exhaust valves and order slightly smaller..it woild fit if the intake was smaller or a stock valve but i dont wanna go smaller on intake and i went bigger on exhaust so ill just get one that fits..then the heads will need some bowl,pocket work .then spring seats need to be milled for springs and custom bronze guides installed..last the head will be machined for O-ring and custom copper gaskets will be made..

He would not price me anything over phone till he the work in hand..

Here is his shop
http://www.magnummachineincorporated.com/

And the flywheel.not getting it from summit tho.

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/fiz-186401

 

[explorinitup]

Damn that is one hell of a flywheel!!

 

[jd4242]

Damn that is one hell of a flywheel!!

Yep.that picture isnt even it..the 06 mustang 4.0 sohc uses a very special design unlike the traditional clutch and flywheel..the clutch actually sits down inside the flywheel..kindof hard to explain..ill post some pics of it when i get it but wont be for awile now,best price ive found is around $330 ish..

 

[jd4242]

Got my poly body mounts and my C-notches finally. .back is doing really good so gonna get back to work on the truck..plan is still to add the poly mounts plus 1/2" pucks to raise it some..then will be installing the C-notches and cutting the front coils some..i know everyone is against that but they are progressive coils and a slight increase in rate wont be that bad,stiffen it up some..

once thats done and its aligned im going to send the chip off to be reprogrammed for my ecu..he is gonna just transfer all my old tunes for now..im going to go in for a dyno and tune adjust after..

I wanna get that box that detects detonation and adjust timing but cant remember the name and remember it being costly. [MENTION=81804]4pointslow[/MENTION] what was its name again?? Can everyone keep a look out for a used unit??

Last thing im debating and want yalls opinions on it..im going to install my rocker spacers when i go to put the SC on and have my ARP head stud kit..you guys think i can change a head bolt at a time, to a head stud without effecting the head gaskets seal??they are pretty much brand new Superduty gaskets with maybe a thousand miles on them,maybe....i know with a tune,2 ICs and only 10 lbs they will be fine with head bolts but wanna be safe as i dont have a back up truck right now...also i may wanna throw my bigger crank pulley on right before i swap motors and see if a stock replacement parts bottom end will hold 15lbs with SD gaskets and studs..why not right,i have spare blocks,cranks and pistons..lol

Some pictures. .first was just a cool pic of how meaty thise rears really are..second is the C-notches i got from a guy on ebay. .yes i could have made them but just didnt feel like it and they are thick!!

 

[4pointslow]

Box

The box is a J&S safeguard Vampire if you have the same ignition coil as me.
http://www.jandssafeguard.com/VampirePage/Vampire.html

 

[jd4242]

The box is a J&S safeguard Vampire if you have the same ignition coil as me.
http://www.jandssafeguard.com/VampirePage/Vampire.html

Yes thats it.thank you,been searching your thread for it..lol

Any thoughts about switching head bolts to studs one at a time??

 

[4pointslow]

Any thoughts about switching head bolts to studs one at a time??

I have heard that doing the one bolt swap at a time on the 6.0 diesels works if the gasket had not been damaged already. If it works there, it should work for the 4.0
Lots more pressure on the 6.0 head gaskets.

 

[Dono]

I remember Tom Morrana telling me that its ok.

Not that this is a glowing example, but I did this on my 347 to add pipe sealant to my head studs (leaking coolant thru the threads) with absolutely no issue afterwards (other than the scored crank which wasn't related).

that wide rubber stance, and rim combo look awesome.