Running wires 2017 explorer xlt

[McKenzieGary]

needing ideas on where to run wires for amp, light bars, cb? Can I hook up led flush mounts to reverse wires so they come on for when I back up?

 

[J_C]

If the reverse lights are on the LOM (lamp out module) sensing circuit, then you don't want a second parallel current draw, should only use the reverse wires (in addition to their existing purpose) to trigger a relay to turn on the led flush mounts from an alternate, fused power wire you add.

OR... you could just try it and see, except that even if it works, you should disconnect the reverse lights to see if the LOM detects they aren't working instead of being fooled by the alternate draw from the flush mounts. This assumes you have added up all the current the circuit is capable of and there is enough margin for the additional amount the flush mounts draw. I don't know the existing current draw nor that for the flush mounts. You might need to look at the fuse rating and wire gauge as well.

 

[peterk9]

needing ideas on where to run wires for amp, light bars, cb? Can I hook up led flush mounts to reverse wires so they come on for when I back up?

Welcome to the Forum.
There are existing threads on light bars and audio upgrades that may be of help. The 'Search' feature at the upper right is a handy tool.

Peter

 

[McKenzieGary]

Welcome to the Forum.
There are existing threads on light bars and audio upgrades that may be of help. The 'Search' feature at the upper right is a handy tool.

Peter

I’ve looked at those. But looking for 2017. Thanks

 

[McKenzieGary]

If the reverse lights are on the LOM (lamp out module) sensing circuit, then you don't want a second parallel current draw, should only use the reverse wires (in addition to their existing purpose) to trigger a relay to turn on the led flush mounts from an alternate, fused power wire you add.

OR... you could just try it and see, except that even if it works, you should disconnect the reverse lights to see if the LOM detects they aren't working instead of being fooled by the alternate draw from the flush mounts. This assumes you have added up all the current the circuit is capable of and there is enough margin for the additional amount the flush mounts draw. I don't know the existing current draw nor that for the flush mounts. You might need to look at the fuse rating and wire gauge as well.

Thanks

 

[McKenzieGary]

If the reverse lights are on the LOM (lamp out module) sensing circuit, then you don't want a second parallel current draw, should only use the reverse wires (in addition to their existing purpose) to trigger a relay to turn on the led flush mounts from an alternate, fused power wire you add.

OR... you could just try it and see, except that even if it works, you should disconnect the reverse lights to see if the LOM detects they aren't working instead of being fooled by the alternate draw from the flush mounts. This assumes you have added up all the current the circuit is capable of and there is enough margin for the additional amount the flush mounts draw. I don't know the existing current draw nor that for the flush mounts. You might need to look at the fuse rating and wire gauge as well.

I seen on internet a guy drilled a hold in his firewall for his wires and I didn’t want them ran in the door jam so they don’t get smashed. I’ve looked on driver side where the power wires go into the door I can’t run them there maybe passenger side. I want to have an amp for subs and cb and led light bar one on bumper maybe two yellow ons in the bumper one on roof for front then two for back on bumper for back up lights then then for the rack four or six lights and need and air tank for flats or to air up when I let air out on the trails.

 

[J_C]

That's too much to digest at once.

I would run a single low gauge wire for the sub and have a power distribution block in the rear to take off fused runs to the other things. Passenger side might be less congested, but I've never taken my trim off to see.

 

[McKenzieGary]

That's too much to digest at once.

I would run a single low gauge wire for the sub and have a power distribution block in the rear to take off fused runs to the other things. Passenger side might be less congested, but I've never taken my trim off to see.

Thanks.

 

[mmorey79]

There are two popular locations for power wire, where the emergency brake cable comes into the cab under the drivers foot (you can drop through the corner of the fender cavity in the engine bay down to under the floor) or on the passenger side firewall behind the dash, if you have a 115v inverter it's behind that, if you don't have that inverter it's pretty easy to find. If you google it there are several videos showing both routings.

 

[XLT86]

Little late finding this post. But, this may help

Upfitters Guide