thermostat area leak

[fordysenior]

Hello everyone, thanks for sites like this. My vehicle: 2002 Explorer auto 4x4 4.6L. 120k miles. I had oil on my oil filter, found thru sites like this it is probably the gasket behind the housing. I switched it and everything looked good, so a few days later, I replaced the upper rad hose and the thermostat. I put in the new thermostat and then wrapped the o-ring around the upper housing and assembled it. I idled it for a while and all looked good. Came home the next day and saw coolant on the ground. It's dripping coolant even though the vehicle has not been driven since the day before. When the engine is on, there is pretty much a steady stream of coolant leaking. Took it apart, bought a new o-ring and this time I just dropped in on top of the new thermostat, bolted it together, still have a steady coolant leak. I had no coolant leak before this repair. Any ideas what to do?

 

[Joe in NY]

does it have the aluminum coolant crossover? If not you disturbed it and the composite passage is cracked.

 

[fordysenior]

It does not appear to have the aluminum crossover -- if you're talking about the part that goes from the housing around behind the alternator and is part of the intake manifold. It is black in color. I was wondering if just removing the bolts of the thermostat could have broken it. From your response, it sounds like that is what happened.

 

[SyberTiger]

does it have the aluminum coolant crossover? If not you disturbed it and the composite passage is cracked.

Joe, I have the Limited 4x4 edition of the 2002 so I assume we have identical engine setups. I was curious to know if you ended up with the problem you mentioned. I was thinking about putting in a new thermostat just for the hell of it (136,000 miles) but now I take pause based on your comment. Please advise.

 

[Joe in NY]

If you have the composite intake coolant passage:

DO NOT DISTURB IT! Doing so will cause stress on a very weak and brittle part.

I DO NOT have the composite. Though I do have an early build 2002. Date of 02/02. Late build is after 03/02.

I have an aluminum coolant crossover where as OP seems to have the composite. Sorry OP but I think you now need the new upgraded intake manifold. FYI, these motors are just de-tuned Mustang motors. So finding one used, or from the junkyard should be easy if you want to save $$.

 

[rocco123]

Bet the crossover is cracked. The sealing ring sits in a channel and that channel edge of the plastic cracks / crumbles apart. Easiest fix is the Dorman 615-175. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=361187&page=2

http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-615-17...iewpoints=0&sortBy=bySubmissionDateDescending

 

[SyberTiger]

If you have the composite intake coolant passage:

DO NOT DISTURB IT! Doing so will cause stress on a very weak and brittle part.

I DO NOT have the composite. Though I do have an early build 2002. Date of 02/02. Late build is after 03/02.

I have an aluminum coolant crossover where as OP seems to have the composite. Sorry OP but I think you now need the new upgraded intake manifold. FYI, these motors are just de-tuned Mustang motors. So finding one used, or from the junkyard should be easy if you want to save $$.

Thanks...I have a 03/02 build date.

 

[fordysenior]

I have purchased the Dorman part -- the old one is off, getting ready to put the new one on. And I did not have to take apart the fuel line, I just pushed it aside. The factory manifold has a sound deadening shield around it -- the Dorman part does not. Ford could not find it in their catalog, I called Dorman, they said "just throw it away". It's brittle plastic and not needed. I got the part at Oreillys, the cost was $230.

 

[rocco123]

I put the heat shield back in to keep heat from the plastic intake. No need to induce any more heat but whatever. Dorman should fit fine and take care of the leak. Got mine from Amazon for $150 free shipping. Hope it worked

 

[fordysenior]

Followup -- I got it finished. It really wasn't that bad -- just a lot of unclip or unhook this or that. Then some clean up. I did remove the alternator, but not the plug coils, or disconnecting the fuel line -- and I didn't disconnect a lot with the throttle body. I just kept folding stuff up out of the way.
As for the Dorman part - It seems to be doing the job, had everything line up as it should. They really give no instructions with it, and I did get an extra heavy duty bracket with the kit (I assume it fits a different application). Their 'what's included' list shows 1 alternator spacer, but it needed two -- and two longer bolts to go with them. So I had to get to the store and buy them. I don't know about Amazon, which is cheaper, but O'reillys is a lifetime guarantee part. And since I'm jammed up with work, I needed to get the part and get it done.
Also, if you look in the area apparently of 'most viewed', there is a thread saying 'I bet you all have this problem too'. Yes I do have it, so I cut a 3/4 inch plastic plumbing coupling in half length wise and put some silicone sealant in it and, after cleaning the area, I positioned the part right where the roughed up wire is. I think that will protect it, time will tell. (ps, adding in that the problem is the wire harness that is resting on the oil drip bracket and is cutting into the harness)
Thank you all, and good luck.

 

[rocco123]

Thanks for the update. Feedback is always good.

 

[Rickademus]

How long do they normally last they start to leak

My housing is leaking now and filling the top of the motor with near the knock sensor with a small amount of coolant .
Do the after market ones last ? If you dont over tighten the bolts
Is it better to buy original ?
Thoughts pls

 

[fordysenior]

I wouldn't know if they last because mine is too new. But I'm pretty sure Oreillys gives a lifetime guarantee with it, I doubt Amazon does that. Of course, all labor would be up to the installer. But the part seems well built, as well as the original. In Fact, probably better than the original because of the aluminum crossover part attached to the remaining plastic intake manifold. Dorman seems to specialize in stuff and have a respectable name. All the bolts lined up, everything went together well except for me having to go and buy a couple of parts as mentioned earlier. I would go with it.
Use a torque wrench to make sure you don't over tighten

 

[rocco123]

Never heard of a dorman failure. Oem design is not as good as it should or could be. Crossover should be a replaceable item but the design makes you replace the whole manifold. I like the dorman dealsign better for sealing...and IF an oring goes bad they can be replaced. What i dont like about dorman is that they dont have screw inserts and use self tapping screws for throttle body and coils

 

[Rickademus]

According to Amazon the Dorman part does not fit my 05 4.0 v6 Explorer .
If i have the coolant leaking under the manifold 99% of the time its the thermostat housing right? So im going to chance a after market housing .

You see guys im living in Germany and i have to mail order parts in . Actually i haven't even got the vehicle on the road yet. I want the vehicle to be reliable as posssible and ive already rebuilt the transmission .