Three Aussie Mechanics cannot repair the axle seals- Unable to remove C clips in rear 8.8 Diff

[Mbrooks420]

It doesn’t take much. The small packet is probably enough. You just need to coat the pins.

 

[Scotsman01]

It doesn’t take much. The small packet is probably enough. You just need to coat the pins.

I will do one set and see how far it goes, the tube won't go astray. My manual says apply to adjuster, which I will do when I get the tube.

 

[fast_dave]

@Scotsman01

Just jumping in here for a second -

Earlier in this epic thread I read that you're going to be replacing the "handbrake shoes".

Be advised - when replacing the handbrake shoes, leave one side completely assembled while replacing the other side.

To clarify, do not take both sides apart at the same time.

This is so you have a "guide" to rebuilding the other side.

Hope that helps -

 

[maxxxx]

I would only use caliper grease. You’ll eat brake pads very quickly if your slide pins aren’t clean, polished, and greased.

so in total, how many diferent types of grease and oil are needed to maintain an old explorer?

 

[Mbrooks420]

so in total, how many diferent types of grease and oil are needed to maintain an old explorer?

Dozen maybe.

“Maintenance” Fluids
5w20/5w30 engine oil
Mercon V transmission/power steering
Mercon III/Dextron transfer case
75w/150 rear differential
80w90 front differential
DOT3 brake fluid!

Repair stuff
Red and blue loctite
Anti-seize
Caliper grease
White lithium grease
Brake parts cleaner
Quality penetrating oil

I’m sure there’s more but this is the bulk of them.

 

[Scotsman01]

@Scotsman01

Just jumping in here for a second -

Earlier in this epic thread I read that you're going to be replacing the "handbrake shoes".

Be advised - when replacing the handbrake shoes, leave one side completely assembled while replacing the other side.

To clarify, do not take both sides apart at the same time.

This is so you have a "guide" to rebuilding the other side.

Hope that helps -

View attachment 326218

i appreciate that you took the time to read my epic thread. Without the advice given I would still be wondering what to do. Unfortunately both sides have been dismantled but with the axles out I can copy the setup from my manual and YouTube's easily. I do appreciate your comments.

Dozen maybe.

“Maintenance” Fluids
5w20/5w30 engine oil
Mercon V transmission/power steering
Mercon III/Dextron transfer case
75w/150 rear differential
80w90 front differential
Dot4 brake fluid

Repair stuff
Red and blue loctite
Anti-seize
Caliper grease
White lithium grease
Brake parts cleaner
Quality penetrating oil

I’m sure there’s more but this is the bulk of them.

Wow ! Thanks for the question and answer. Apparently over the years I have most of the list, but the only one I would query would be the diff oil. I had tags on the diff that said 75w- 140 for the oil so I stuck with that. There is probably little difference and yours may be a more current oil.
I will definitely keep the list for future reference, thanks again.

 

[Scotsman01]

Again, I do not know why the difference between dot 3 or dot 4 , but all my refences say only Dot 3

 

[Mbrooks420]

You’re definitely right, it should be DOT3, I was thinking of my power sports stuff. Must not have been fully awake.


75w140 is the recommended oil. Super weird weight. Everyone makes a synthetic 75w150, so I use that.

 

[Scotsman01]

You’re definitely right, it should be DOT3, I was thinking of my power sports stuff. Must not have been fully awake.


75w140 is the recommended oil. Super weird weight. Everyone makes a synthetic 75w150, so I use that.

Can you mix the two oils, might need to top up and the 140 was very dear here

 

[CDW6212R]

The gear oil is very important due to the severe usage and typical long time between changes. So use the best you can afford to, try to avoid the cheapest brands that parts stores carry. Amsoil makes about the best, but it is less expensive than other top brands, including Ford's. Amsoil will run about $15 a quart now, it's gone up a couple of dollars recently. Here it's a mail order business with lots of individual distributors, so almost all orders come from closer sourced distributors.

Maybe their are some sources there that could make the time and shipping reasonable. You can usually find them by a general search, or through Amsoil themselves. The Amsoil gear oil is called Severe Gear, and it is very good, more worth its price than any other gear oil.

Dot 3 and Dot 4 brake fluid are both adequate, better brands will cost more and have a little better boiling point etc. Just never buy Dot 5, that is special for undriven cars only, show cars etc. That one is not compatible to mix with the 3 or 4.

You can mix gear oils, that's a percentage affect deal, no harm to do that if you have to.

Valvoline makes a transfer case fluid which is reasonable versus the $20+ other special kinds. The Valvoline was about $6 a quart last Summer, in case you cannot find any Dexron III or Dexron III/Mercon. It's the Mercon which is no longer made, it used to be sold as both Dexron III/Mercon, by many brands. Now they want you to use high dollar special TC fluid, even though the Dexron III has not changed and is still available everywhere(and met the Mercon fluid standards(thus sold as one fluid meeting both)). For TC fluid, the real issue is to not use any other ATF besides those two(Mercon or Dexron III), the others are too slick and will ruin most TC's.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Can you mix the two oils, might need to top up and the 140 was very dear here

Should be fine. I’ve had a mix in the first Mounty for over 100k and the rear axle is still tight.

Been mixed with 75w150 in the current one for 50k. Everything is as should be expected.

 

[Scotsman01]

Should be fine. I’ve had a mix in the first Mounty for over 100k and the rear axle is still tight.

Been mixed with 75w150 in the current one for 50k. Everything is as should be expected.

Thanks, helps to be informed

 

[Scotsman01]

The gear oil is very important due to the severe usage and typical long time between changes. So use the best you can afford to, try to avoid the cheapest brands that parts stores carry. Amsoil makes about the best, but it is less expensive than other top brands, including Ford's. Amsoil will run about $15 a quart now, it's gone up a couple of dollars recently. Here it's a mail order business with lots of individual distributors, so almost all orders come from closer sourced distributors.

Maybe their are some sources there that could make the time and shipping reasonable. You can usually find them by a general search, or through Amsoil themselves. The Amsoil gear oil is called Severe Gear, and it is very good, more worth its price than any other gear oil.

Dot 3 and Dot 4 brake fluid are both adequate, better brands will cost more and have a little better boiling point etc. Just never buy Dot 5, that is special for undriven cars only, show cars etc. That one is not compatible to mix with the 3 or 4.

You can mix gear oils, that's a percentage affect deal, no harm to do that if you have to.

Valvoline makes a transfer case fluid which is reasonable versus the $20+ other special kinds. The Valvoline was about $6 a quart last Summer, in case you cannot find any Dexron III or Dexron III/Mercon. It's the Mercon which is no longer made, it used to be sold as both Dexron III/Mercon, by many brands. Now they want you to use high dollar special TC fluid, even though the Dexron III has not changed and is still available everywhere(and met the Mercon fluid standards(thus sold as one fluid meeting both)). For TC fluid, the real issue is to not use any other ATF besides those two(Mercon or Dexron III), the others are too slick and will ruin most TC's.

Your comments will be saved for future reference, many thanks

 

[maxxxx]

Wow ! Thanks for the question and answer. Apparently over the years I have most of the list, but the only one I would query would be the diff oil. I had tags on the diff that said 75w- 140 for the oil so I stuck with that. There is probably little difference and yours may be a more current oil.
I will definitely keep the list for future reference, thanks again.

Same here. I'm setting up my garage for my new after-work absorbing hobby, and have already printed out all the words of wisdom I've gotten here & pasted them on the wall

Dozen maybe.

“Maintenance” Fluids
5w20/5w30 engine oil
Mercon V transmission/power steering
Mercon III/Dextron transfer case
75w/150 rear differential
80w90 front differential
DOT3 brake fluid!

Repair stuff
Red and blue loctite
Anti-seize
Caliper grease
White lithium grease
Brake parts cleaner
Quality penetrating oil

I’m sure there’s more but this is the bulk of them.

Ta, have put this on my new hobbyist
garage wall along with other words of wisdom

 

[Scotsman01]

Same here. I'm setting up my garage for my new after-work absorbing hobby, and have already printed out all the words of wisdom I've gotten here & pasted them on the wall

Ta, have put this on my new hobbyist
garage wall along with other words of wisdom

I guess that is what this forum is all about. I used to feel guilty, but these last comments have pleased me so much that others are getting benefit.

 

[Scotsman01]

I guess that is what this forum is all about. I used to feel guilty, but these last comments have pleased me so much that others are getting benefit.

I am jealous of workshop and hobby shed, this job should not be done in a carport of apartments.

 

[C420sailor]

I think the earlier models called for 80W90, then a change to 75W100000 (not sure the actual number) was made. Not sure why.

I’ve used 80W90 in my diffs and I’ve got 315k on one of my Ex’s and the gears look great. Valvoline, nothing crazy. Never had to do bearings.

Not saying 80W90 is better. Run as close to what Ford recommends as possible, but don’t lose your mind or empty your wallet over it. My point is that I wouldn’t get too wrapped around the axle (lol) about the nitty gritty. 140 vs 150 ain’t gonna make a damn bit of difference.

The real important bit? Change it in schedule. Change it more often if you drive hard, and change immediately if you think you got water in it.

DOT4 is fine. Same stuff as 3, just higher boiling points and such. 3 is cheaper and a vehicle like this doesn’t really need 4, so save your $. DOT 5.1 is compatible with 3/4, but DOT5 is NOT. DO NOT USE DOT5.

In terms of grease...I use a moly fortified grease for general greasing. Suspension parts, etc. Caliper grease for the slider pins. Dielectric grease for electrical connectors.

 

[Scotsman01]

I think the earlier models called for 80W90, then a change to 75W100000 (not sure the actual number) was made. Not sure why.

I’ve used 80W90 in my diffs and I’ve got 315k on one of my Ex’s and the gears look great. Valvoline, nothing crazy. Never had to do bearings.

Not saying 80W90 is better. Run as close to what Ford recommends as possible, but don’t lose your mind or empty your wallet over it. My point is that I wouldn’t get too wrapped around the axle (lol) about the nitty gritty. 140 vs 150 ain’t gonna make a damn bit of difference.

The real important bit? Change it in schedule. Change it more often if you drive hard, and change immediately if you think you got water in it.

DOT4 is fine. Same stuff as 3, just higher boiling points and such. 3 is cheaper and a vehicle like this doesn’t really need 4, so save your $. DOT 5.1 is compatible with 3/4, but DOT5 is NOT. DO NOT USE DOT5.

In terms of grease...I use a moly fortified grease for general greasing. Suspension parts, etc. Caliper grease for the slider pins. Dielectric grease for electrical connectors.

Thanks, I am sure others will also pounce as it is all good advice

 

[maxxxx]

I am jealous of workshop and hobby shed, this job should not be done in a carport of apartments.

I guess you could have neighbours & passers-by giving cheery/helpful commentary I did a melodramatic clean-out of our junk-pit garage over NYs and am now setting it up like my teenage bedroom - posters, neatly colour-coded files, pretty baskets of polishes, oils and lamps Now for the colour-matched wall of ratchets & 'bits'. Gonna be a fun 2021 hobby...

 

[maxxxx]

I guess that is what this forum is all about. I used to feel guilty, but these last comments have pleased me so much that others are getting benefit.

I happily pass on knowledge from whatever skillsets I have when I can to others. As long as there is requisite gratitude I reckon the pass-it-forward sense of global community-sharing is quite cool.