Underdrive Pulley Installation: 4.0 SOHC Motor

[CDW6212R]

That OEM balancer is hell to remove, I finally swapped the parts. It basically takes two odd bolts to use a spacer bolts in place of the stock crank bolt, to pull it off. My crank bolt was so well lubricated from being off before, that it turned in with the puller shaft each time. That would not happen if it had loctite on it. Maybe next time I may add a drop or two.

FYI, my belt length ended up at 84.25", with a stock idler pulley it would need to be near 85" long. Regards,

 

[SeanMc]

My install went smoothly, But...
How do you torque the pulley bolt the last 90 degrees???

 

[jd4242]

ive got a 92 4.0 with the udp and alt pulley does anyone know what size belt i need?

i think it is the 84.5 inch belt??

 

[trucku]

Anyone else gone underdrive?

What are your results?

Installed mine 2 days ago. My voltage gets down to 12.6 at times when idling. My heater fan runs low when at stop lights and speed up once start to drive. I ordered the overdrive alternator pulley a few minutes ago. I can't wait to put that in.
Other than that, the truck feels good and a I will see if I gained some mpg when I run on tank of gas with the new pulley.


My steering is now shaky and underpowered. My steering wheel jumped around when I hit a bump today at about 35mph. Is there a overdrive power steering pulley available or a replacement pulley I can use from another vehicle?

I have no cooling issues. The truck never gets above 200 Fahrenheit.

 

[aldive]

Installed mine 2 days ago. My voltage gets down to 12.6 at times when idling. My heater fan runs low when at stop lights and speed up once start to drive. I ordered the overdrive alternator pulley a few minutes ago. I can't wait to put that in.

I too have voltage issues at idle ( completely nrmal 13.7 v at 1k rpm ) and I do have the overdrive alternator pulley.

My steering is now shaky and underpowered. My steering wheel jumped around when I hit a bump today at about 35mph.

I do not experience this.

Is there a overdrive power steering pulley available or a replacement pulley I can use from another vehicle?

Not that I am aware of.

I have no cooling issues. The truck never gets above 200 Fahrenheit.

Same here.

 

[CDW6212R]

I have my other big alternator on my SOHC now, the 170 amp alternator went a couple of months ago. This alternator is for my 347, and I didn't ask for an overdrive pulley. So with a normal pulley it will be close to 12volts at idle in normal driving. The overdrive pulley takes care of that, but 12 volts isn't really bad. Most circuits run best with 13-14v though.

 

[Hitchhikingmike]

My under drive pulley just came in the mail today. I will create my own thread once I come across a good weekend to get it done and I feel confident enough to start the task. I have previously averaged 22.8mpg on highway trips before bone stock. Can't wait to see what increases this will bring.

 

[trucku]

I have never seen 22mpg bone stock or after pulley...lol
why do some trucks just get better mileage...

Good Luck with your install.

 

[Hitchhikingmike]

It is very rare that my mileage ever peak past 21mpg.

I drove 50 miles each way to school and back during the previous spring semester. I never managed to get any better than 20.9mpg, although I did hit that number quite easily(speed must be kept at or below 65). Although when I'm in a mad hurry traveling at 75-80 on the highway my mileage always drops down to about 16-17mpg.

I recently got 22.8mpg driving up from the Houston area to the DFW metroplex. I gassed up right before I left and right before I got home. My traveled at 70mph for a few hours and 55 at other places on the highway, overall averaging about 62mph.

I keep my tires inflated at 40psi on highway trips. I also calculate my mileage at the pump by hand after the pump ticks off. My explorer is also a 2x4

I don't believe that ASPracing sent with the pulley a new bolt for the crank. So I will be looking for one of those next along with a good puller before I can start this project.

 

[Hitchhikingmike]

Well, the bolts that came with the new UDP do not fit the holes in my stock crank pulley, the bolts are too small.

My stock crank pulley is also different that Aldive's. So now I must go hunting at hardware stores to find a bolt that will fit into my stock pulley to pull it.

 

[trucku]

I used my stock pulley's bolt to pull the pulley out. I just backed it out and then screwed it back in about a quarter inch or so. I was able to use my puller after that. The center screw on the pulley will be to big to fit into the pulley.

The puller will have its own bolts too.

 

[trucku]

It is very rare that my mileage ever peak past 21mpg.

I drove 50 miles each way to school and back during the previous spring semester. I never managed to get any better than 20.9mpg, although I did hit that number quite easily(speed must be kept at or below 65). Although when I'm in a mad hurry traveling at 75-80 on the highway my mileage always drops down to about 16-17mpg.

I recently got 22.8mpg driving up from the Houston area to the DFW metroplex. I gassed up right before I left and right before I got home. My traveled at 70mph for a few hours and 55 at other places on the highway, overall averaging about 62mph.

I keep my tires inflated at 40psi on highway trips. I also calculate my mileage at the pump by hand after the pump ticks off. My explorer is also a 2x4

I don't believe that ASPracing sent with the pulley a new bolt for the crank. So I will be looking for one of those next along with a good puller before I can start this project.

I drove to Florida a few times and the truck was stock then. I got 18mpg from full to empty. I also fill till it clicks and don't top off.

I feel like I used my original bolt...hmm. Can't remember...damn!

 

[Ronin8002]

the crank pulley bolt is torque to yield, so definitely get a new one before installing. I did.

here's a thread I posted on my install:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=253360

If you pull your radiator its probably easier to work in there...but then there's the hassle of draining/refilling the radiator so there's that to consider.

 

[Hitchhikingmike]

the crank pulley bolt is torque to yield, so definitely get a new one before installing. I did.

here's a thread I posted on my install:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=253360

If you pull your radiator its probably easier to work in there...but then there's the hassle of draining/refilling the radiator so there's that to consider.

Thanks for the information. That's odd, when I searched for under drive pulley install your write up never came up. Glad I found it. I now know of a total of three UDP write ups on this forum.

I posted a couple questions on your thread.

 

[Hitchhikingmike]

Another question:

How did everybody guide the UDP onto the crankshaft? My Ford software program says to use a special installation tool. But I assume I can just push the UDP back on with the bolt in the crank right? I'm just concerned about putting to much stress on the threads inside of the crankshaft.

I don't have an impact gun, so when I place the breaker bar against the frame rail to bump the starter motor, do I need to use an impact socket? or will any do? Thanks.

 

[Ronin8002]

don't use an impact to put in on...remember its a torque to yield so the right way to do it is to use a torque wrench.

I lubed the threads on the bolt with motor oil, pushed the balancer on by hand as far as I could, then used a hand ratchet to tighten it down until the bolt was as far in as I could get it (holding the pulley by hand). Final tightening I did with a rented torque wrench.

To keep the pulley from spinning while I did the final tightening, I screwed the two puller bolts in place (without the actual puller on there). Then I wedged a breaker bar in between them and rested that on the frame so that as I tightened the pulley bolt with the torque wrench it wouldn't spin.

 

[Hitchhikingmike]

To keep the pulley from spinning while I did the final tightening, I screwed the two puller bolts in place (without the actual puller on there). Then I wedged a breaker bar in between them and rested that on the frame so that as I tightened the pulley bolt with the torque wrench it wouldn't spin.

good idea! I was about to purchase a chain wrench for this purpose, but now you just saved me $10.

 

[Hitchhikingmike]

HELP!

I've been around to all the hardware stores in my town and can't find a single bolt to thread into my stock pulley to pull it out with the tool.

1/2" too big, anything smaller too small.

likewise 10mm to small, and 12mm too big.

Does the pulley take metric 11mm bolts to pull it out? Nobody around here carries 11mm metric bolts.

Does anyone know what size bolt threads into the stock harmonic balancer to pull it?

The stock balancer on my V6 is a bit different than the picture of Aldive's.

...anyone who did this on 3rd gens remember what size bolts thread into the stock pulley?

thanks.

EDIT: I'm getting desperate here, the only other thing I can think of next is to go pull some mounting bolts off an A/C compressor out of a 1st gen in a junk yard??? (another member said these are the bolts he used) I guess I'll go see if I can do that tomorrow and see what that will do. Seems a bit of an extreme way to get the right bolts but I don't know what to do.

 

[CDW6212R]

I don't know what those bolt sizes are, but that is the key to getting the balancer out. Finding just the right length bolts for that and the center hole to push on is critical. I came up with used bolts for pulling with, and 2-3 short bolts to help to push on the crank. You need to have the used crank bolt in the crank to push on, out about 3/8" from snug/touching the balancer. You can only pull the balancer a little at a time. Once you get it out some so that it's not as tight in there, I like to use just a short bolt in the hole. Find one that goes in the crank, just smaller than the threads. Use that bolt to push on for the last push, but only when it doesn't take as much force to get movement. You don't want to be pushing too hard on a loose bolt in the crank, that will hurt the threads. You can't do that to start with, but after some movement of the balancer, it will move easier. Good luck,

 

[trucku]

I removed the pulley using the stock pulley bolt.

Back off the bolt then thread it in just about a half way in. I may have done it the hard way, but I just pulled on the pulley backed the bolt off, pulled on the pulley, backed the bolt off untill it came free. I did that and it worked fine. It is the pulley bolt your taking about and not the bolts to screw into the pulley?