VERY high mileage SportTrac

[jge04]

Hello, I've been lurking around this forum for quite a while, but this is my first post.
I've got an '04 SportTrac that is RWD with an estimated 290K on it. (the cluster has been dead since 2020 and reads 240k when it works)
It's my daily driver and still runs well with no mechanical issues, everything related to the drivetrain is bone stock. I am curious as to how limited I am by my mileage in terms of aftermarket parts, as I feel like trying to install anything might open pandora's box and render the truck undriveable and cause more issues than it would solve. I mainly am looking at putting new shocks on the truck as the ride quality has significantly decreased over the 3 years that I've been driving it. Any help or advice is appreciated.

 

[J_C]

I don't understand your question, at least as it relates to shocks which is a bit different than working in the engine bay and needing to manipulate old, potentially brittle wires or vac hoses, etc.

Mileage has nothing to do with aftermarket parts working or not. However, degree of rust can be a factor in how much needs replaced. For example, when my rear end, left rear particularly, started to sag, I put coilover shocks on, but the extra strain on the lower shock mount, accelerated failure from the existing rust, so in retrospect I'd have just replaced the near rusted out lower mount plate simultaneously instead of having to go back later and do it, and in doing the lower mount plate, needed new axle U-bolts for it as well. Standard shocks, there's just the shock and the upper and lower bolts.

Certainly you can find some parts difficult to swap after enough time, mostly if it has a lot of rust, but in this case it's a matter of putting new shocks on and the main thing I would do since it's a daily driver, is have replacement bolts ready, particularly the bottom mounting bolts if rusted, may shear off or need cut off. If they are not very rusty, that shouldn't be a problem... considering you are in AR then they may not be, but if originals, that's a lot of time for rust buildup.

Anyway, if you had to drive to the hardware or an auto parts store without a shock hooked up, just go a little slower. That doesn't make it undriveable to make the trip to do that.

Related things that would make it undriveable would be more like trying to replace the springs or spring shackles and getting stuck partway through. You can't drive without the spring in working order, but without the shock it'll just bounce more.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Hello, I've been lurking around this forum for quite a while, but this is my first post.
I've got an '04 SportTrac that is RWD with an estimated 290K on it. (the cluster has been dead since 2020 and reads 240k when it works)
It's my daily driver and still runs well with no mechanical issues, everything related to the drivetrain is bone stock. I am curious as to how limited I am by my mileage in terms of aftermarket parts, as I feel like trying to install anything might open pandora's box and render the truck undriveable and cause more issues than it would solve. I mainly am looking at putting new shocks on the truck as the ride quality has significantly decreased over the 3 years that I've been driving it. Any help or advice is appreciated.

shocks wouldn't open pandoras box. the main thing is to make sure your fluids are consistently changed and your timing tensioners are good. of course also nice to know the hoses arent about to be in shambles. this explorers got 330k so these can go a long time.

 

[jge04]

I don't understand your question, at least as it relates to shocks which is a bit different than working in the engine bay and needing to manipulate old, potentially brittle wires or vac hoses, etc.

Mileage has nothing to do with aftermarket parts working or not. However, degree of rust can be a factor in how much needs replaced. For example, when my rear end, left rear particularly, started to sag, I put coilover shocks on, but the extra strain on the lower shock mount, accelerated failure from the existing rust, so in retrospect I'd have just replaced the near rusted out lower mount plate simultaneously instead of having to go back later and do it, and in doing the lower mount plate, needed new axle U-bolts for it as well. Standard shocks, there's just the shock and the upper and lower bolts.

Certainly you can find some parts difficult to swap after enough time, mostly if it has a lot of rust, but in this case it's a matter of putting new shocks on and the main thing I would do since it's a daily driver, is have replacement bolts ready, particularly the bottom mounting bolts if rusted, may shear off or need cut off. If they are not very rusty, that shouldn't be a problem... considering you are in AR then they may not be, but if originals, that's a lot of time for rust buildup.

Anyway, if you had to drive to the hardware or an auto parts store without a shock hooked up, just go a little slower. That doesn't make it undriveable to make the trip to do that.

Related things that would make it undriveable would be more like trying to replace the springs or spring shackles and getting stuck partway through. You can't drive without the spring in working order, but without the shock it'll just bounce more.

Essentially what I'm asking is how limited am I by my mileage? I know that replacing one part in the suspension will likely, like you said, cause unforeseen wear on parts that are already rather old. The post is to see how bold others think it would be to start building up the truck this late into it's life.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Essentially what I'm asking is how limited am I by my mileage? I know that replacing one part in the suspension will likely, like you said, cause unforeseen wear on parts that are already rather old. The post is to see how bold others think it would be to start building up the truck this late into it's life.

being fully honest until about 300k suspension wise everything (except shocks) was all original. did a few things and theyre still hoping up strong. same with the engine, i would say its not super bold to change hoses or what not, so as long as the ones you dont change arent crumbling in your hands.

 

[J_C]

The only question is how long you expect it to last before put in a junkyard or sold, versus how much money to invest in upkeep since it's still a daily driver. Certain things like suspension, I would definitely replace as long as it is affordable, mostly by DIY instead of paying a shop to do it for the more costly suspension items in terms of labor), because these are poor handling vehicles and a worn suspension will make them worse.

Since it "still runs well with no mechanical issues", definitely I'd consider it worthwhile to put new shocks on it. Rock Auto currently has a few on closeout too, making them very affordable.

2004 FORD EXPLORER SPORT TRAC 4.0L V6 Shock / Strut | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

 

[oklagp1200r]

The only question is how long you expect it to last before put in a junkyard or sold, versus how much money to invest in upkeep since it's still a daily driver. Certain things like suspension, I would definitely replace as long as it is affordable, mostly by DIY instead of paying a shop to do it for the more costly suspension items in terms of labor), because these are poor handling vehicles and a worn suspension will make them worse.

Since it "still runs well with no mechanical issues", definitely I'd consider it worthwhile to put new shocks on it. Rock Auto currently has a few on closeout too, making them very affordable.

2004 FORD EXPLORER SPORT TRAC 4.0L V6 Shock / Strut | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

Poor handling it's not a race car or small car handling but for what it is mine handles quit well.

 

[J_C]

Poor handling it's not a race car or small car handling but for what it is mine handles quit well.

Well I'm comparing against... hmm... almost everything I've ever driven. I had a GMC Jimmy (aka Chevy S-10 Blazer) that was worse, and once upon a time ago, drove a work van that was, but babied that since it wasn't mine.

Granted I'm talking about vehicles with a tall, fat rear end. Center of gravity in the rear is lower on a Sport Trac, and if you have RWD, there's less weight up front as well, so I can imagine that I've driven worse pickup trucks than that, with both having equally worn/unworn suspensions.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

Well I'm comparing against... hmm... almost everything I've ever driven. I had a GMC Jimmy (aka Chevy S-10 Blazer) that was worse, and once upon a time ago, drove a work van that was, but babied that since it wasn't mine.

Granted I'm talking about vehicles with a tall, fat rear end. Center of gravity in the rear is lower on a Sport Trac, and if you have RWD, there's less weight up front as well, so I can imagine that I've driven worse pickup trucks than that, with both having equally worn/unworn suspensions.

cant beat the samurai when it comes to handling!!!!

 

[Nctruckman]

Just rolled 291k on my 03 4.0. Trac. If OEM parts are available, I usually go that route. Only exceptions are the thermostat housing (use metal) shocks ( use Bilstein, oe ford suck) and bushings( polyurethane is better than rubber/foam)

 

[oklagp1200r]

Just rolled 291k on my 03 4.0. Trac. If OEM parts are available, I usually go that route. Only exceptions are the thermostat housing (use metal) shocks ( use Bilstein, oe ford suck) and bushings( polyurethane is better than rubber/foam)

I prefer Rancho shocks on my second set now