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Thank you

So we checked for a vac leak and didn't find one. To me it seems to idle okay. It doesnt seem to idle high or low the gage shows 1 or 1.5 .Sometimes but not often there's a hiccup also yesterday while I took my foot of the gas my vehicle died whole engine shut right off it started right back...

I have a 1995 Ford Explorer 4.0L pushrod. I got a 172 code HEGO (HO2S) Sensor Fault/Lean My questions are, how many O2 sensors do I have? And Also if I have more than 1 should replace them all? No doubt I will be back to ask more questions Thank you for your patience

We got the right cylinder for tdc

Also how do I know it's not tdc ? because two other people checked and said it was good It can't be a bad sensor? Not trying to fight you just fighting that I may have to remove half the top of my engine to do this crap again lol

So I have to take the synchronizer out to time it again and make sure its right? Also, any help with the other code?

So what does that mean? I'm pretty sure it was set to tdc and we used the correct alignment tool. The old synchronizer was a pain to get out. It was stuck in there pretty good almost as if it was the wrong part and they hammered it in. The 96 part went in smoothly.

I'm going to be real honest with you I don't want to have to take my engine all apart again to do this. It was a massive pain The whole reason we switched out those parts was because we got a code for it, sorry I don't remember what it originally was. So it was running like this before we...

I have a 1995 Ford Explorer 4.0 pushrod engine and have been having a hell of a time with it lately. I managed to pull 2 codes. 214 (cylinder identification circuit failure) and code 172 HEGO (HO2S) Sensor Fault/Lean Now the truck's exhaust stinks, it sounds like a growl when I accelerate...

Synchronizer and Sensor were replaced over a month ago. Tomorrow I will look into checking for a vacuum leak. Tested the Fuel Pump Relay and it was clicking but will look into more info or possibly replacing it.

Can someone possibly recommend a scanner that will do both obd2 and obd1? My brother has a 97 f150 and it'd be nice to have something that will scan both. I've done a couple searches here and I saw someone recommend the one I'd bought before, that's why I bought it but as I said, it just told...

That's what I was going to ask. I have to do my testing under the hood. Ive tried at least 3 different obd2 scanners and also getting the adapter that hooks to the scanner then to under the hood and I can't get a link. Edited to say I also tried this scanner: INNOVA 3145 Ford Digital OBD1 Code...

172, 214 and 542. I'm pretty sure 214 was the original code I got before we replaced the camshaft synchronizer and sensor

Thanks everyone I removed the negative and left it off for about 30 minutes. Check Engine light is still on. I will recheck for codes later.

I have a 95 Explorer 4.0 v6 push rod. I need some help clearing codes so I can see if these are relevant codes or old ones. To be clear I have disconnected the battery a few times while doing repairs and also had to put a new battery in as it was old anyways. My question, is there a certain...

The engine, the dash lights, the steering. Tran is automatic but I can still put it in park and start it up.

Brand new battery, connectors have been cleaned. When the car dies everything turns off. I can't even steer to get to the side of the road. I hit the brakes and put it in park then restart it. It fires right back up. I took video of the codes but I honestly can't figure out what codes it's...

It's a 95

Thank you very much!

Hi having issues still with my 95 Explorer 4.0 pushrod truck. Can someone please help me identify the part I have circled in the picture and also tell me if the black button type thing is supposed to spin? Issue is check engine is still on, and vehicle randomly dies while driving. All power...

I had to remove the axle nut and they slid right off.

Thank you!

I've got a 95 explorer 2wd. Trying to get these dang rotors off and having a heck of a time. Is there something I need to remove inside the cap (see pic with arrow) to remove the rotor? If not, then what can I do because those babies are stuck on them like glue

Thank you all. I got it torqued right

If I knew what in-pounds meant I wouldn't have asked. I'm not mechanical inclined at all so here I am I appreciate the clarification and help.