Help with a couple codes

[everythinghurts]

I have a 1995 Ford Explorer 4.0 pushrod engine and have been having a hell of a time with it lately.

I managed to pull 2 codes. 214 (cylinder identification circuit failure) and code 172 HEGO (HO2S) Sensor Fault/Lean

Now the truck's exhaust stinks, it sounds like a growl when I accelerate and I feel I have lost a little get up and go when I'm trying to beat the person next to me off the line....I mean take off from a red light.

I've done quite a bit of repairs, not all on my own and some of those include replacing the camshaft synchronizer and camshaft sensor with a 1996 part as suggested to me by someone in this forum. We did this mid February of this year.

We've done our best to check for vacuum leaks as well.

Can someone please tell me what I need to do to get the Check Engine Light off and to get these codes cleared?

 

[Turdle]

The 2 codes ,to me, point to the cam sensor being out of time.
The crankshaft rotates 2 times for 1 rotation of cam sensor. Misidentifying the compression stroke is not something to be embarrased about, so don't think I'm ribbing you. But it is worth checking- re timing.
Just set engine to tdc, mark cam sensor well, at base and internals, pull it out, rotate engine 180 degrees back to tdc again, re install cam sensor lining marks up as it goes in. I'm curious what happens if you try this, or even think this could be the case.

 

[everythinghurts]

The 2 codes ,to me, point to the cam sensor being out of time.
The crankshaft rotates 2 times for 1 rotation of cam sensor. Misidentifying the compression stroke is not something to be embarrased about, so don't think I'm ribbing you. But it is worth checking- re timing.
Just set engine to tdc, mark cam sensor well, at base and internals, pull it out, rotate engine 180 degrees back to tdc again, re install cam sensor lining marks up as it goes in. I'm curious what happens if you try this, or even think this could be the case.

I'm going to be real honest with you I don't want to have to take my engine all apart again to do this. It was a massive pain

The whole reason we switched out those parts was because we got a code for it, sorry I don't remember what it originally was. So it was running like this before we switched out the parts

 

[Pete Deering]

You probably install the camshaft synchronizer 180° out.

 

[everythinghurts]

You probably install the camshaft synchronizer 180° out.

So what does that mean?

I'm pretty sure it was set to tdc and we used the correct alignment tool.

The old synchronizer was a pain to get out. It was stuck in there pretty good almost as if it was the wrong part and they hammered it in. The 96 part went in smoothly.

 

[Turdle]

So what does that mean?

I'm pretty sure it was set to tdc and we used the correct alignment tool.

The old synchronizer was a pain to get out. It was stuck in there pretty good almost as if it was the wrong part and they hammered it in. The 96 part went in smoothly.

Tdc happens 2 times in a 4 stroke engine. The cam sensor rotates once during both times. You need the engine to be at tdc for the compression stroke.

I'm betting your tdc was on exhaust stroke. Wrong time for cam sensor to be set

 

[everythinghurts]

Tdc happens 2 times in a 4 stroke engine. You need the engine to be at tdc for the compression stroke.

I'm betting your tdc was on exhaust stroke.

So I have to take the synchronizer out to time it again and make sure its right?

Also, any help with the other code?

 

[everythinghurts]

Tdc happens 2 times in a 4 stroke engine. The cam sensor rotates once during both times. You need the engine to be at tdc for the compression stroke.

I'm betting your tdc was on exhaust stroke. Wrong time for cam sensor to be set

Also how do I know it's not tdc ? because two other people checked and said it was good

It can't be a bad sensor?

Not trying to fight you just fighting that I may have to remove half the top of my engine to do this crap again lol

 

[Turdle]

So I have to take the synchronizer out to time it again and make sure its right?

Also, any help with the other code?

Cam sensor controls fuel injector timing, so, that other code kinda relates.

Rotate engine until cam sensor tool fits. Once it does, Do not rotate engine at all!!!!

Remove cam sensor drive unit.
Look at timing indicator on harmonic balancer. Mark a line on pully with a sharpie, that lines up with pointer.

Now you can Rotate the engine. Rotate engine one revolution clockwise, slowly until line is even with pointer again. You've now rotated engine ( camshaft) 180 degrees.
Drop in cam sensor unit with tool. Re assemble and please let us know if it worked.

 

[Turdle]

You got this. It's not that hard the more you do it. It'll go much quicker .

 

[Pete Deering]

So what does that mean?

I'm pretty sure it was set to tdc and we used the correct alignment tool.

The old synchronizer was a pain to get out. It was stuck in there pretty good almost as if it was the wrong part and they hammered it in. The 96 part went in smoothly.

The number 1 cylinder needs to be at TDC.
Your ? So what does that mean?
What cylinder was at TDC, when you drop in the synchronizer? Do you know for sure, it was the number 1?
After replacement the code will go away automatically.

 

[everythinghurts]

The number 1 cylinder needs to be at TDC.
Your ? So what does that mean?
What cylinder was at TDC, when you drop in the synchronizer? Do you know for sure, it was the number 1?
After replacement the code will go away automatically.

We got the right cylinder for tdc

 

[Pete Deering]

You got this. It's not that hard the more you do it. It'll go much quicker .

Two or three times.

 

[Pete Deering]

I have a 1995 Ford Explorer 4.0 pushrod engine and have been having a hell of a time with it lately.

I managed to pull 2 codes. 214 (cylinder identification circuit failure) and code 172 HEGO (HO2S) Sensor Fault/Lean

Now the truck's exhaust stinks, it sounds like a growl when I accelerate and I feel I have lost a little get up and go when I'm trying to beat the person next to me off the line....I mean take off from a red light.

I've done quite a bit of repairs, not all on my own and some of those include replacing the camshaft synchronizer and camshaft sensor with a 1996 part as suggested to me by someone in this forum. We did this mid February of this year.

We've done our best to check for vacuum leaks as well

This how I replaced my synchronizer.

See link below with pictures.

Can CMP Synch be changed with engine in place (4.0 OHV)? someone please tell me what I need to do to get the Check Engine Light off and to get these codes cleared?