'98 brake line replacement

[LarryMax]

My '98 Explorer 4x4 2 door Sport has only 67,000 miles but had it rough in some North East winters. Rust is an issue. I've decided to replace the brake lines (will be doing the calipers, brake hoses, rotors, pads also).
(pic is the driver side rear line to hose)

Any advice on installing the new brake lines? It looks like it's going to be a pain.

 

[974X4BLACKSPORT]

If you dont have a good double flaring tool, get one, because your going to need one. The reason being is that some lines are so long you cant get them past other parts of the vehicle to install them, this requires segmenting the line and using a double flare union to joint them back together. Dont use compression fittings, even if others have said they used them without problems. If you adamant on not cutting your new lines to make installation easier, then the best way to do it would be to get a "lift" and raise the body off the frame to allow access to install those long lines, but the is alot more work than making a couple unions now is it! In the factory, brake lines are the first thing to get installed before all the other "stuff" is put on.

 

[shucker1]

You may also want to soak the ends down in Kroil or PB Blaster over night to make them a little easier to get lose.

 

[koda2000]

While doing this job, do not let you master cylinder run dry. If you get air in the ABS pump getting the system bled will be nearly impossible w/o special equipment to run the ABS pump.

If your not cutting and re-flaring lines try to use a piece of brake line that is a little longer than what's needed and add an extra bend to shorten the length. Brake lines are available in a multitude of lengths at any auto parts store. Cutting and re-flaring lines is the best way to go, but it you've never done it it takes a little skill (and the tools) to do it properly. As said, never use compression fittings on brake lines. They're not strong enough. If/where necessary use a union instead.

Many people fail to understand that if you don't flush your brake fluid every couple of years the metal lines can also rust from the inside. This is because brake fluid is hydroscopic and absorbs moisture from the air. Contrary to what some may believe, the brake system is not a sealed system.

 

[974X4BLACKSPORT]

Good point not to let the master cylinder run dry, disconnect it first and use a vacuum caps to plug the line so all the fluid does not drain out. Then in the end when it is reconnected make sure to keep it topped off with fluid while the line fill back up and during brake bleeding.

 

[roscoe 0202]

if you have a hose store nearby they will have flexible lines dot certified they can cut and make specific lengths and the ends that you and in the future rust will not be an issue since the inner tune is Teflon and the ones that I got are covered in plastic sleeve
roscoe

 

[LarryMax]

Thanks for the replies. I purchased a brake line kit with all of the lines pre-bent for the specific vehicle. The longest line that runs the drivers side of the vehicle is in 2 sections with the proper ends. Just hope I can fish these things through.

 

[JAMMANICA]

Ugh hate to chime in late but the very easiest way to replace brake lines is to buy a roll. You will need a double flare tool like suggested earlier but I can run a line to the back of a Ranger or Explorer in about 10 minutes.

Cut the line just above the fitting on the ABS and in the back before the rubber tube. This will allow you to use a socket over the fittings, a 6 point. Unless the fittings are damaged I drill the old line out and use the same fitting...not because I'm cheap but because you can be sure it will fit since you took it out.

Have a friend hold the roll near to the front of the vehicle, start fishing the line down. Make sure you put it between the metal heat shroud and the frame, that's there to keep the lines from cooking from that first cat.

Then get under the car and start fishing it beside the other lines then up the frame beside the fuel tank.It will poke out in the back right near where you need it. Make sure it doesn't have crap in the line, I have a little rubber cap I put over mine before I start, works unless you have to pull back.

Curl it around till it points the right direction where you removed it, put your fitting on and flare the line. Screw it in but leave it loose.

THEN cut the line in the front off the roll, curl it around to where it needs to be, put the fitting you removed and drilled over the line, double flare the line and attach it tightly to the ABS block.

Bleed the brakes at the line before it goes into the rubber hose, pump it up hold it method with help. Most of the air will be gone by the time you see fluid, keep an eye on the MC reservoir as was mentioned.

I bleed it there because chances are your bleeder screws... at least one of them will snap off the caliper or brake cylinder. I have done this 3 times now using a roll of line and I will never go back to the 2 piece method that takes a while.

 

[mattZ]

I just finished a complete line and hose replace on my 96 sport. Used a 25ft roll and a preflared 5ft section for the rear diff. Besides almost losing an eye (freak accident, kicked the old rusty line into my own eye) it went very smoothly. Very good advice above. only thing I can add is make sure your flares look very good. Some very fine grit sandpaper paper (and blowing lines out with air) will clean the ends of the lines up nice. Good luck!

 

[J_C]

Good point not to let the master cylinder run dry, disconnect it first and use a vacuum caps to plug the line so all the fluid does not drain out. Then in the end when it is reconnected make sure to keep it topped off with fluid while the line fill back up and during brake bleeding.

No mention was made of replacing the master cylinder. If the lines from the master cylinder to ABS module look okay, there is no need to disconnect the master cylinder.

 

[massacre]

I also like to use the 25’ rolls, have used the nicad before seems to work good.
I do have a hydraulic flare tool though which makes it much easier

 

[J_C]

I used a 25' foot roll too but ran it from rear to front, did it without help by estimating the length with a couple feet margin, uncoiled it, made sure one flare was good, put masking tape over the other end.

Took the tank brush guard and cross-member piece next to it off, just pulled the line through and put it in the empty slot on the mounting brackets (one position isn't used from the factory) so the old line didn't need pulled nor many nylon wire-ties to secure it.

Up through the engine bay, 3 coils in the line for strain relief, and flare the other end. I found an Eastwood On-Car Flaring Tool worked a lot better than the butterfly style loaner tool from Autozone that I'd been trying to use with minimal success.

Eastwood On Car Flaring Tool for 3/16 Tubing

 

[CDW6212R]

The master cylinder is not a worry, the big deal is the ABS module. You can let some air into the MC(try to avoid that of course), but that can be bled yourself eventually.

The ABS module on the other hand is not able to be bled by any normal methods. Don't ever let any air get into ABS modules, typically some air will find its way into the internal passages. Normal bleeding does not affect the ABS module valving, the passages are not straight through simple passages. There are pockets inside that normal brake fluid flow goes right past. Thus it is easy to get air trapped inside an ABS module. Only a proper tool can force the ABS module to operate the valving and release what's inside the internal pockets etc.

I installed an ABS system into my 95 Crown Vic, using parts from other JY Crown Vics and GM's. I had a soft pedal for ages, and didn't use a special tool to bleed the ABS module(from a 97 police CV). Eventually after many years and about 40k miles, the pedal is firm. I bled the brakes at least once a year, less as time went on. The air was slowly displaced over time, I was delivering mail back then with it for a couple of years. Now I'd find a way to get the right tool to bleed the ABS module, or not let air into it(if it's all on a sealed system like this thread is about).

 

[massacre]

I have one of those ABS flush tools, got it cheap on eBay it needed a switch. Bought a switch at electronics store soldered it in works good. Haven’t used it in years but glad I have it just in case

 

[shucker1]

I have one of those ABS flush tools, got it cheap on eBay it needed a switch. Bought a switch at electronics store soldered it in works good. Haven’t used it in years but glad I have it just in case

I'm curious now...

What brand?

 

[CDW6212R]

I have one of those ABS flush tools, got it cheap on eBay it needed a switch. Bought a switch at electronics store soldered it in works good. Haven’t used it in years but glad I have it just in case

Ditto, I bought one someplace many years ago, but haven't needed it since my Crown Vic years before. I hope to not ever need it, but it's another tool squirreled away in my garage.

 

[shucker1]

Ditto, I bought one someplace many years ago, but haven't needed it since my Crown Vic years before. I hope to not ever need it, but it's another tool squirreled away in my garage

He who Dies With The Most Tools Wins!!!!!

 

[CDW6212R]

He who Dies With The Most Tools Wins!!!!!

How about honorable mention for the guy who has it all, but can't find it?

 

[shucker1]

I'll win!!!!

Perhaps?

 

[J_C]

Many people fail to understand that if you don't flush your brake fluid every couple of years the metal lines can also rust from the inside. This is because brake fluid is hydroscopic and absorbs moisture from the air. Contrary to what some may believe, the brake system is not a sealed system.

This is false. Brakes are a sealed system. It is impossible for a hydraulic system to function if not sealed.

This system does not need flushed every couple years. This Great Urban Myth has persisted for far too long.

At most you might have a leaking or negative pressure valve in your master cylinder reservoir, or some other brake component fault that lets air in (but if you do, your brake pressure is shot so this is a last day you brake before braking is lost, scenario), and over many years this adds a little bit of moisture.

That little bit of moisture, may cause brake pressure loss in extreme conditions that cause the small amount of water to boil, but because brake fluid is hygroscopic, it greatly retards the effects of rust because the tiny amount of water present is spread throughout the entire braking system instead of pooling in one area where it would do more harm.

Brake flushes are a waste of money. Do one when you replace a component and have reason to believe there is debris in the system as a result, or if you are racing and a little water under severe conditions will degrade the braking performance that was already marginal for the activity.

There is far too much evidence from the millions of vehicles on the road, that brake fluid does not need flushed except in extreme conditions. This also assumes that when it was added, it was a fresh container not one sitting half empty and open too long to absorb moisture before it was even put into the sealed braking system.

Over 20+ years of owning my Explorer, it has had no brake flushes, and no braking problems. Finally a year ago the rear axle line rusted from the outside, and leaked, and I put new lines on, and flushed it.

This is typical for every vehicle I've owned and worked on. I see no evidence at all that brake flushes are necessary for water retention except in extreme racing conditions. If we were talking about preserving a 50 year old classic car worth $50K, maybe then change the fluid just as a burden but not because it needed it.