aluminum or steel?

What are the pros and cons of aluminum vs. steel wheels. I'm looking to get some new rims, and found some real cheep steel ones that look pretty good. What are the disadvantages? Weight I guess is one, but how much does that come into play?

 

[EBInterceptor]

I was once told by someone that in an accident that steel is less forgiving and can cause more damage than aluminum, but aluminum with get more screwed up. But we don't want to think about accidents here.

 

[Alec]

Steel is usually the heaviest, Cast Al next, and Forged Al after that. 15" steelies aren't much heavier than the stock 15" cast rims. However, each inch you go up not only does the actual weight of the rim increase, but so do the relative weights of the different materials.

Steelies are generally better for the hardcore wheeler IMO. This is because they can easily be hammered out or welded on the trail. They'll probably bend easier than Al, but they're much easier to fix and less expensive to replace if you have to.

Case in point: I bent one of my steelies and hammered it out myself. On my VW, one of my rims is bent and would cost about $100 to fix. It's still ok though so we stuck it on the rear

And yes, steelies are much cheaper!

 

[bigdaddykarl]

Steel wheels increase unsprung weight, which will result in a smoother ride and better handling, with a decrease in acceleration. Steel wheels may bend easier, and when offroading, a bend is definately better than a cracked alloy wheel. Most of the time, thought the wheel is bent, it is typically not bent enough to create a leak.

Styles....well, here's where aluminum has steel beat. But who cares about style on the trail?

 

[Lefy]

alumium wheels weigh less which is always better.
but their more expensive you won't crack aluminum rims unless you slam something like a curb doing donuts which is what we saw at jds over break like 3 different times and we had one guy who had to buy a new steel rim because he did the same thing.

personally if I had the money i'd have aluminum wheels but i didn't when I bought my rims and tires.

comparing my stock rims 16s and tires weight to my new rims 15s and tires

my stock ones felt about maybe 20 pounds a piece my new rims s and tires which were alot bigger then stock weighed in at about 40 pounds I think that definately causes more wear then if i had lighter rims.

also aluiminum rims don't rust big plus although mine haven't started rusting yet.
I've seen older versions of my rims rust though

 

[bigdaddykarl]

Less weight is not always better. There's sprung weight and unsprung weight: Frame, body, engine, etc (most of the vehicle) is sprung weight, meaning it's suspended by springs. Unsprung weight is everything attached to the other end of your suspension, your brakes, axles, wheels and tires. More unsprung weight will result in greater stability, and typically a better ride, as with more weight, you have more momentum, and it will allow your suspension to do it's job better. However, as Lefy stated, you'll more than likely experience faster tire wear.

Now in regards to momentum, lighter wheels and tires will require less force to get them moving, resulting in quicker acceleration. As will smaller diameter tires. Smaller diameter tires will result in a decrease in ride quality, for two reasons: 1. less circumference to take on an obstruction, and 2., typically a shorter sidewall, which means less tire flex.

Oh, the science goes on and on...

Lefy, are those the Streetlock wheels that 4wheel parts sells? They look great...how do you like them?

 

[SGR1600]

I guess what it comes down to is: do I pay $43.95 a piece for US Wheel steelies, or $85.95 for A/R Outlaw II's (aluminum). Actually I like the A/R Baja's the best, and then the Mickey Thompson Classic II's, but they run about $105.95 and $93.95 respectively. But I can't justify the extra cost for styles that I like only a little more...

 

[bigdaddykarl]

Spend the money once and get what you want the first time. Otherwise you'll always say, "dang...shoulda got the better ones."

A little patience goes a long way...

 

[SGR1600]

Yeah, I'll probably be getting the Outlaw II's. The extra money for the others really isn't worth it, I don't think. As far as the steel in concerned, I really don't need anything else slowing the 'sploder down. Now I just need to find some money for them. I'm getting my Apten chip this month, so they will have to wait for March. Thats actually ok, the salt should be gone by then

 

[Dre]

see? and now you worry about salt... what are you going to do next winter?

I have two sets... one set: aluminium Eagle rims with regular Wrangler RT/S 31x10.5 and another set: American Racing steel/chrome rims with Yokohama snow 31x10.5 tires - perfect for the ice and snow we have plenty of this year. The do show a bot of rust but heck... they will do. Alloys are sitting in the garage waiting for the sun to come out. This way I don't really have to worry about salt and stuff...

more expensive doesn't mean better - just get what you're really after... that's all.

 

[bigdaddykarl]

Salt? Snow? What are you talking about? I just don't understand...

Y'all must be from where the sun don't shine! Gotta love Southern California "winters".

Another option is to go with the factory wheels that I have...steel 15" wheels with plastic "chrome". I just don't get it...you spend $35,000 on a loaded Eddie Bauer, and you get plastic wheels.

Hey Dre, how about copper wheels? LOL!

 

[Dre]

copper wheels huh?

So. Cal. guys kill me... sun all year round...

man, oh man... I'm jealous now...

Those Ford Factory steel rims with chrome skins are not bad... I've got one of these as my spare... bought it on Ebay for $0.99

plus shipping.

Aluminum are for looks definatelly... steel for off-road use.