At my wits end with my 98 Explorer Sport not starting when it's warm to hot outside

[bullaka]

Good day everyone. I have a 98 Ford Explorer Sport. It's a manual. I have an issue where it will intermittently not start from time to time. It shows up more when it's warm to hot outside. I can get it to start if I do the old push and pop-the-clutch technique. Here are the things I've tried so far all to no avail.

• I’ve replaced the PCM valve. I’ve tried pulling the hoses off when it won’t start to no avail as that can, sometimes, reveal a bad PCM.
• I’ve tried the driver's side door key in the lock trick: turn left, then right to disarm. (PATS system bypass which is addressed further down this list)
• I’ve replaced the transceiver module in the steering wheel.
• I’ve hotwired the ignition directly to the starter.
• PATS systems fuses are fine.
• Disabled the PATS by sending it out and having it neutered by flashing the firmware. Then put it back in. That being the case no need to do the wire bypass as I've seen in some forums.It was still acting up after disabling the PATS. I checked with the person/company that did the previous point and he confirmed the flashing of the firmware worked.
• I bypassed the clutch safety switch.

I think that’s it. I’ve also tried prayers, bad words and general begging to no avail.

Simply as a reminder, I can get it to start if I push it and pop-the-clutch. It can no longer be the PATS as it's disabled. Does anyone have any other ideas?

 

[Rick]

My guess is that it's an ignition switch issue since it seems to start reliably when the key is in the run position, but is intermittent when turning the key all the way to start, and then back to run.

 

[Mbrooks420]

When it doesn’t start, it cranks?

 

[bullaka]

My guess is that it's an ignition switch issue since it seems to start reliably when the key is in the run position, but is intermittent when turning the key all the way to start, and then back to run.

I'm sorry I forgot to state that's been replaced as well.

 

[fast_dave]

When it doesn’t start, it cranks?

^^^ What @Mbrooks420 asked.

 

[donalds]

 

[RickOTR]

Sounds like a fuel injector is leaking causing a hot soak

 

[bullaka]

When it doesn’t start, it cranks?

Yes!

When it doesn’t start, it cranks?

It does crank.

 

[bullaka]

My guess is that it's an ignition switch issue since it seems to start reliably when the key is in the run position, but is intermittent when turning the key all the way to start, and then back to run.

That's been replaced.

When it doesn’t start, it cranks?

yes

 

[bullaka]

Sounds like a fuel injector is leaking causing a hot soak

Thank you!

 

[fast_dave]

@bullaka

OK - now that we know it cranks but only intermittently starts;

* how many miles on your Sport and how long have you owned it?

* and have you ever replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor (as opposed to the Camshaft Position Sensor)?

 

[Mbrooks420]

I’d change the coolant temp sensor.

 

[donalds]

Took the words out of my kindle keyboard

 

[fast_dave]

 

[EB4X]

 

[Pete Deering]

Did read any codes. It sounds like a fuse able link or cam sensor on the front pulley.

 

[Chris_A.]

I’d change the coolant temp sensor.

Which motor OHV/OHC? What options? Was the original failure: cranks, no start?

If you change a part with no change to the problem.

1 it was not a problem or
2 The original and the new part are broken or
3 now you are fighting multiple failures.

Is your vehicle stock? Mods (besides PATS messed with)? WAG is an absolute last resort!

Any codes, at any point? What made you think PATS? If you went after PATS, does the problem follow one of the keys or both? Did this come from a "locked out"/locksmith? New key/keys? RAP issues? PATS needs the RAP, PCM, and your BCM to function. Issues with PATS are designed to shut you down. If PATS, what 'trips' it?

What other issues? Vaccum leaks?
Lights on dash? Drivability issues noted? By-the-book tests run?

If all tests pass, yes, WAG it. "Because at that point you cannot make it worse?" or "One of the points has a failure that is applicable to the current issue; but, is not captured in by-the-book testing.'

(Lessons learned from a father, engineer and a professional life working with aircraft, radar systems, and computer systems.)

"Don't mess with it if it is not broken. OR when modification is being considered, Don't mess with it if you don't fully understand what the results will be and why."

 

[bullaka]

I'm close!

 

[JCat]

A gas engine needs air, gas, and a spark.
Which is missing?

 

[EB4X]

As Fast Dave mentioned I would focus in on the Crank sensor...super easy and cheap to replace...(Ebay) Do the push start / clutch and drive to local Autozone and borrow their OBD2 tester for free (if you don't own one) and perform a KOER test and see if it picks up bad sensor code.
Do you have the OHV 4.0 ? If so you have to loosen and partially remove serpentine belt near sensor for better access....can do this / entire job from passenger side underneath front of vehicle.... have a large rag handy to wipe all the oil / buildup etc around it.
I replaced mine at night at a do-it-yourself carwash stall