Camshaft Position Sensor replacement--a bit of discussion

[CDW6212R]

Hmmm... is it possible that this is why my new synch is not seating properly?

Yes, it's just like installing a distributor. The oil pump drive shaft has to mesh along with the cam gears. That shaft has six sides, so it's harder to fit into than the cam gears.

 

[shucker1]

Perhaps this could be moved to the "Sticky" section for better future visibility?

 

[Justme63]

The alignment tool kit I bought for $25 from AutoZone had all 4 tools included. Made my installation a breeze. The 95 I transplanted into my 96 had the old style CPS so I had to pull the new style from the dead motor and put it into the transplant. Should have done it while it was out but I got it in. The firewall was a pain to get around by the way. Just my 2 cents

 

[bilug]

5.0L synch position?

I'm about to replace the cam synch on my 1998 Explorer Limited. I cannot find anything saying where the arrow on the position tool should be pointing. Straight ahead? 15 degrees? 60 degrees?

Everything I find talks about position for any motor other than the 5.0!

I bought the Cardone Select brand on RockAuto. Anyone have any experience (good hopefully!) with the brand?

 

[SoNic67]

Arrow it's not relevant, probably to the front of the engine. You just need to be able to plug the connector in when all is done.

What needs to be aligned is the internal rotor (little 'flag') with the notch for the sensor (window in the outside wall).
This is how mine was set from factory. Note that the middle of the sensor window is aligned with the leading edge of the rotating flag:

Not sure if that's how the tool will align it, I didn't use the tool, I just put the new one exactly like I found the OE one.

 

[bilug]

Can you confirm you had #1 cylinder at TDC when you did this?

 

[SoNic67]

I tried to be exact. But I realized that it pointless. I just took a pic, printed it. Then put the new camshaft synchronizer in and align it exactly like I saw in the pic. It doesn't even matter if is TDC no.1 , heck it could be at 90 degree off, as long as you don't rotate the engine between replacements and you match the sensor position... you are good.
This sensor is not a precision one, it just tells the PCM grosso-modo where the TDC no.1 is.
The actual sensor for ignition angle is the crank wheel (reluctor wheel) and crank sensor. It has a much finer indexation of crank position. And it has a missing tooth to 'find' the TDC no.1 also.

 

[bilug]

I realize dropping the synch in without TDC is possible - but my tab is broken and gone. No way to know what position it is in!!

 

[WncLee]

I broke the end of my sensor off working on my 2000 v8 Ex, I'm only replacing the top part of the unit. Just to make sure I don't screw my engine up I wanted to make sure that I can just take the top part off & replace it without the tool. I'm leaving the part that goes in the block & only replacing the part with electrical connection. Is it ok to just swap them out without any tool?

 

[shucker1]

As long as you don't move the metallic, lower rotating assembly and you are only replacing the upper (Plastic) sensor housing you should be fine.

The sensor portion is tabbed so it only locks in one way.

 

[WncLee]

Cool thanks, that's what I thought just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to screw something else up,been good at that recently.

 

[shucker1]

You have got to learn somewhere...

It should be fine.

 

[scottfab]

In looking at the diagram in post #1
it would appear you could take off the sensor and mark the tabs then
mark where the shaft is at on the block
and take the shaft out for inspection then put every thing back
without an alignment tool. (of course not moving the crank at all)
Is this correct?
What other thing can move to make this not possible?
Or is this in fact possible?

(ADDED LATER: never mind. The squeal was not the Cam shaft sensor. It was the idler pulley right next to it)

 

[fropiler]

In looking at the diagram in post #1
it would appear you could take off the sensor and mark the tabs then
mark where the shaft is at on the block
and take the shaft out for inspection then put every thing back
without an alignment tool. (of course not moving the crank at all)
Is this correct?
What other thing can move to make this not possible?
Or is this in fact possible?

(ADDED LATER: never mind. The squeal was not the Cam shaft sensor. It was the idler pulley right nest to it)

That's probably good.

While it is possible, having been through it, I wouldn't pull the sync if I didn't have to. Especially if it were only the sensor.

TDC piston one, compression stroke. Alignment tool. Bottom gear has to mesh as it drives the oil pump. By the book. Or maybe you'll get lucky. Or not. "Never time to do it right the first time, but always time to do it over"

 

[scottfab]

That's probably good.

While it is possible, having been through it, I wouldn't pull the sync if I didn't have to. Especially if it were only the sensor.

TDC piston one, compression stroke. Alignment tool. Bottom gear has to mesh as it drives the oil pump. By the book. Or maybe you'll get lucky. Or not. "Never time to do it right the first time, but always time to do it over"

I did this cam sensor shaft pull on a 97 Mustang and lubed the shaft etc and the squeak went away. Care must be taken to put the shaft back in EXACTLY where it was.
Got lucky here on my son's Explorer. It was the idler pulley.

 

[Beaudrick]

Same subject slightly different situation

Hey guys need advice. I know this topic has been covered but I haven't found anyone discussing the problem I have here. '98 Explorer 5.0L. Looking under the hood recently I noticed three wires that look freshly cut and stripped back. Finally found the had been ripped out from the camshaft sensor connector. Wires and loom going to the ECT and the crankshaft sensor were twisted and wrapped tightly around the entire sync assembly. Apparently the bolt on the hold down clamp had come loose over time causing the assembly to rotate I don't know how many times. I also have no idea how long I've been driving with no cam sensor even connected. Check engine light must need a bulb. When I found this problem the sensor connector is about the 1 o'clock position facing toward the driver seat. I can't mark it the position obviously because I want it facing forward. Do I not worry about its position, find TDC compression stroke on #1 first, then remove the entire assembly, attach the alignment tool to the new sync, arrow facing forward and drop it into the hole, tighten down the clamp, install the new cam sensor and pigtail, connect the battery terminals, and it's ready to start? Since the assembly has been rotating, the connector leaving black marks all the way around the intake manifold as it scraped its way around I just want to be sure that's my process to fix it. Thanks for yalls time and advice. It's much appreciated.

 

[CDW6212R]

Hey guys need advice. I know this topic has been covered but I haven't found anyone discussing the problem I have here. '98 Explorer 5.0L. Looking under the hood recently I noticed three wires that look freshly cut and stripped back. Finally found the had been ripped out from the camshaft sensor connector. Wires and loom going to the ECT and the crankshaft sensor were twisted and wrapped tightly around the entire sync assembly. Apparently the bolt on the hold down clamp had come loose over time causing the assembly to rotate I don't know how many times. I also have no idea how long I've been driving with no cam sensor even connected. Check engine light must need a bulb. When I found this problem the sensor connector is about the 1 o'clock position facing toward the driver seat. I can't mark it the position obviously because I want it facing forward. Do I not worry about its position, find TDC compression stroke on #1 first, then remove the entire assembly, attach the alignment tool to the new sync, arrow facing forward and drop it into the hole, tighten down the clamp, install the new cam sensor and pigtail, connect the battery terminals, and it's ready to start? Since the assembly has been rotating, the connector leaving black marks all the way around the intake manifold as it scraped its way around I just want to be sure that's my process to fix it. Thanks for yalls time and advice. It's much appreciated.

Welcome to the forum, and yes that process should get it back where it needs to be. But the issue may be more than the hold down bolt being loose. Since it is out of time, clean everything up and remove the assembly too. See if the shaft spins smoothly, it may have begun to seize(bushings), and fixing the wiring might not be all it needs.

Once you think you have all the parts in good shape, then go through the process, find TDC and line up the sensor tool etc. Rock Auto had the cam synchronizers for near $100 last year.

 

[Beaudrick]

Don,

Thank you very much for taking the time to reply. I went ahead and bought a new sync, one because it came with the tool and secondly I wanted to have it on hand in case it needed to be replaced. I'm replacing everything else why not that too right! I don't remember the exact prices from shopping the Dealership, Autozone, and O'Reilly but the ECT pigtail was around $35 from Ford and Orielly. Autozone had an ECT sensor with the pigtail for $28. The CMP pigtail was $56 Ford and Orielly. Autozone can no longer order it. Found it on Amazon, Motorcraft part, for $30. Both Orielly and Autozone had sseveral different cam sensors ranging from roughly $40 up to $70 or you could order the entire sync assembly, with the sensor and sync tool included for like $28 I think it was. Came the next day. They both had the combo cheaper than just the sensor, without the tool. I'm sure they're pieces of crap but she's got 270,000 on her so I'll be looking to get into something different before long anyhow. I'm gonna get this changed out and I'll post the results. Thanks again. Was the help I needed.

 

[Shapechanger]

Thought i would revive this thread instead of starting a new one. Looking into replacing the syncronizer in my 1999, and when ordering one, they list ones with a "step on plug" and ones with out. What does this mean? Which one would i need?

Thanks in advance