Help a widow out (please?) -- rear shocks Ford Explorer 2000 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Help a widow out (please?) -- rear shocks Ford Explorer 2000

NWwoman

Member
Joined
June 1, 2010
Messages
45
Reaction score
11
City, State
Colton,WA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Exploder/2001-150
New shop to me is wanting to put Duralast TwinTub Shocks (TS34-31492B) on the rear of my Ford Explorer 2000 AWD 5.0. I am alone and have no one to ask. My lady friends aren't knowledgeable.. :) I drive both gravel roads and the highway from my rural home. Snow/ice zone here in the Inland Northwest. Occasionally, I am on mud/dirt, depending on road. I fish. I have stopped hunting but thinking about it again, which means I'd be driving on hilly grain fields. I have a tow package. Occasionally, I carry a load in the SUV rear.

I really would like to have your opinion if these are shocks you would use, given my usage. Anyone there able to help a girl out? Thanks so so much!!!!! Wish I could make you cookies!! lol
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I would get KYB Monomax, because of the hilly fields and hauling loads. However they will be firmer on paved roads.

However, Autozone wants about twice as much for those as they cost at Rock Auto, though this is pretty much true of all the grades of shocks that Autozone sells, but the cheaper the shocks, also the more the Rock Auto shipping charge eats away at the price difference.


Rock Auto -
If you just want something close to the factory shock, get Motorcraft for example:
 






Kyb monomar good, have rancho rs5k on this one, it has stood up to heavy loads, and lots of off-roading. the use of this one very similiar to yours. moderate wheeling, heavy loads, fishing. id go with 5k, since monomer was a bit stiff for my liking, but the 5k is. good balance of on and off road, and i got mine on a good sale on rock auto 50 for both iirc.
 






I would get KYB Monomax, because of the hilly fields and hauling loads. However they will be firmer on paved roads.

However, Autozone wants about twice as much for those as they cost at Rock Auto, though this is pretty much true of all the grades of shocks that Autozone sells, but the cheaper the shocks, also the more the Rock Auto shipping charge eats away at the price difference.


Rock Auto -
If you just want something close to the factory shock, get Motorcraft for example:
THANK YOU!

It's probably a stupid question but oh well: What does "firmer on paved roads" mean to me when driving on the highway? We only have one two lane highway, one path in other words, between where I am and any town. All else is gravel. Thus, I will be travelling the two lane highway to town when I tire of gravel. Probably more info than you need. I was surprised at how cheap the Duralast are and don't know what twinTube means...
 






Kyb monomar good, have rancho rs5k on this one, it has stood up to heavy loads, and lots of off-roading. the use of this one very similiar to yours. moderate wheeling, heavy loads, fishing. id go with 5k, since monomer was a bit stiff for my liking, but the 5k is. good balance of on and off road, and i got mine on a good sale on rock auto 50 for both iirc.
Great... thank you. I'm trying to learn about shocks. Cannot figure out why the price ranges from cheap to so expensive. Just quality of materials??
 






Kyb monomar good, have rancho rs5k on this one, it has stood up to heavy loads, and lots of off-roading. the use of this one very similiar to yours. moderate wheeling, heavy loads, fishing. id go with 5k, since monomer was a bit stiff for my liking, but the 5k is. good balance of on and off road, and i got mine on a good sale on rock auto 50 for both iirc.
Good comparisons! On and off-road is exactly what I need. How do they work when cornering?
 






THANK YOU!

It's probably a stupid question but oh well: What does "firmer on paved roads" mean to me when driving on the highway? We only have one two lane highway, one path in other words, between where I am and any town. All else is gravel. Thus, I will be travelling the two lane highway to town when I tire of gravel. Probably more info than you need. I was surprised at how cheap the Duralast are and don't know what twinTube means...
my guess is firmer is usually a bit stiffer, and a bit less "bounce" so to speak. twin tube shocks (liek rancho) have.. well. 2 cylinders! think about it this way: within the outer case of the shock, there is another case inside where the piston rides, and there is a small gap between the two. as the piston compresses, it pushes the fluid out thru a valve into that gap between the inner and out case. twin tubes can hold more hear than a monotone, but imo they tend to be mroe durable, and if they get damaged less likely to fail like a monotube
Great... thank you. I'm trying to learn about shocks. Cannot figure out why the price ranges from cheap to so expensive. Just quality of materials??
they have all different purposes! the cheaper ones are usually more generically valved and less "perfect" and tend to ride softer and not last as long. so yes a good act has to do w/ quality, since there were blue gabriels, those dont last long under moderate/heavy loads. they just arent made for it. the midrange is where i like, like rancho rs5k, can stand up to a good amount of use, tried and true, but not overly expensive. top end being bilstiens, which are perfect for heavy loads and offroading, but quite expensive imo, and imo reserved a bit mroe for purpose built rigs... then theres fox... and well... theyre rebuildable, custom, etc

a good analogy is like an engine

turbo 4 banger (with the exception of the 22re-t haha!) cannot stand up to the abuse that a big block v8 can. can it do it? sure, but it wont last as long, since its not made for that, and has to work alot harder to do the same thing. id keep a 4banger for communting, but for heavy duty use, id go v8. the rs5k imo is kind of like the v6, a bit more efficient than the v8, not as expensive as a v8 upgrade, but can do most of that v8 can do.
Good comparisons! On and off-road is exactly what I need. How do they work when cornering?
they work quite well, both loaded down and not.
 






heres a good example of soft vs stiff shock. now not completely the same, since the one shown here is worn out, but usually worn out shocks tend to behave like a soft shock.



or say think if you get on the back of the truck and jump up and down on it. a softer shock will take a few more bounces to settle back down, vs a stiff one.
 






Any shock is probably going to be night and day vs a worn out shock. Any name brand is probably sufficient. I had the Rancho 9000s. They worked well, as I’m sure the 5000s do.

Twin Tube is just a different way of valving and piston.

IMG_8812.gif


Twin tube is on the right.
 






Any shock is probably going to be night and day vs a worn out shock. Any name brand is probably sufficient. I had the Rancho 9000s. They worked well, as I’m sure the 5000s

Twin Tube is just a different way of valving and piston

View attachment 445418
^^very good diagrams
 






Did you look on line and see what the shocks recommend cost versus what they are charging?
 






THANK YOU!

It's probably a stupid question but oh well: What does "firmer on paved roads" mean to me when driving on the highway?
A larger bore, heavier duty shock costs more to make, and has more dampening, resistance to compression at the same load. This helps when you haul a load or are changing lanes or cornering, or want more control over bumps/hills/etc off-road but it also means that you will feel every pothole, bump, crack, and other uneven surfaces on a paved road more, and feel the gravel more too.

Twin tube are the normal shocks found on most US passenger vehicles to provide smooth ride quality. The alternative to twin tube is monotube which are faster to react, higher resistance, more dampening, less smooth but more control.

The two factors can be combined or not, Monotube can come in both regular duty, and heavy duty for more demanding applications, for example KYB Gas-A-Just are regular duty and Monomax heavy duty. There are also heavy duty twin tube like the Rancho 5000 series, or adjustable dampening like the Rancho 9000 series.
 






my guess is firmer is usually a bit stiffer, and a bit less "bounce" so to speak. twin tube shocks (liek rancho) have.. well. 2 cylinders! think about it this way: within the outer case of the shock, there is another case inside where the piston rides, and there is a small gap between the two. as the piston compresses, it pushes the fluid out thru a valve into that gap between the inner and out case. twin tubes can hold more hear than a monotone, but imo they tend to be mroe durable, and if they get damaged less likely to fail like a monotube

they have all different purposes! the cheaper ones are usually more generically valved and less "perfect" and tend to ride softer and not last as long. so yes a good act has to do w/ quality, since there were blue gabriels, those dont last long under moderate/heavy loads. they just arent made for it. the midrange is where i like, like rancho rs5k, can stand up to a good amount of use, tried and true, but not overly expensive. top end being bilstiens, which are perfect for heavy loads and offroading, but quite expensive imo, and imo reserved a bit mroe for purpose built rigs... then theres fox... and well... theyre rebuildable, custom, etc

a good analogy is like an engine

turbo 4 banger (with the exception of the 22re-t haha!) cannot stand up to the abuse that a big block v8 can. can it do it? sure, but it wont last as long, since its not made for that, and has to work alot harder to do the same thing. id keep a 4banger for communting, but for heavy duty use, id go v8. the rs5k imo is kind of like the v6, a bit more efficient than the v8, not as expensive as a v8 upgrade, but can do most of that v8 can do.

they work quite well, both loaded down and not.
What a great teacher you are. Thank you for taking time from your life to help a stranger. I go to the shop this afternoon to talk with them and now I don't feel like a dumb blonde (oops not PC but there you go) You helped me -- you deserve a good day!
 






A larger bore, heavier duty shock costs more to make, and has more dampening, resistance to compression at the same load. This helps when you haul a load or are changing lanes or cornering, or want more control over bumps/hills/etc off-road but it also means that you will feel every pothole, bump, crack, and other uneven surfaces on a paved road more, and feel the gravel more too.

Twin tube are the normal shocks found on most US passenger vehicles to provide smooth ride quality. The alternative to twin tube is monotube which are faster to react, higher resistance, more dampening, less smooth but more control.

The two factors can be combined or not, Monotube can come in both regular duty, and heavy duty for more demanding applications, for example KYB Gas-A-Just are regular duty and Monomax heavy duty. There are also heavy duty twin tube like the Rancho 5000 series, or adjustable dampening like the Rancho 9000 series.
Gawd, who knew that shocks could get so complicated in my brain when making a decision! I'm glad my instincts were to check out the Duralast shocks they want to put on. My head is swirling with what to have them use, I admit! This stranger really appreciates your help. THANK YOU
 






I'm assuming the shop wants to use a local parts store. The duralast may come with a lifetime warranty, which AutoZone honors without question.

The dang fence has 2 sides.
 






I'm assuming the shop wants to use a local parts store. The duralast may come with a lifetime warranty, which AutoZone honors without question.

The dang fence has 2 sides.
Limited lifetime warranty it says on the AutoZone site. What do you mean by "the dang fence..."
 












Limited lifetime warranty it says on the AutoZone site. What do you mean by "the dang fence..."
rightttttt if its bought at a parts store you can just go back in and exchange them if theres an issue. rock auto or the like sometimes returns are an issue, but if you get a good one/no need to return, i see RA as an absolute win
 






Well, cr*p. The shop
told me that the brand isn't as important as finding shocks that have the air leveling hoses/system found in the 2000 Ford Explorer Limited. They haven't found the part. Wondering if it will throw a code/alert if using regular shocks on the rear and if you guys do opt for the nonleveling shocks. If it's not one thing, it's the other, eh... Dang, I just want this job done. Feeling frustrated this morning. Oh well.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Delete the air ride and air shocks
It’s not working anymore anyway basically the shop can install regular shocks on your truck and just throw the air ride stuff away

There is a switch in the rear cargo area to turn the system off if the compressor still runs and works

The old air ride shocks were okay but really not needed and the system can be expensive to keep in working order

We always just throw that stuff away and use regular shocks
 






Back
Top