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Parasitic drain (fuse 25)

nameskreen

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Year, Model & Trim Level
98 Ford Explorer Limited
I have a 97 Mountaineer 5.0. My battery was going dead after sitting for about a week so I disconnected the negative and charged the battery. Then I closed the latches on the door and hood and waited an hour. I was getting a draw of 450 ma. When I pulled fuse 25- the instrument cluster and GEM system- it dropped to about 40ma. Does that mean a bad GEM module? I'm not really sure where to go from here. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
 



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I have a 97 Mountaineer 5.0. My battery was going dead after sitting for about a week so I disconnected the negative and charged the battery. Then I closed the latches on the door and hood and waited an hour. I was getting a draw of 450 ma. When I pulled fuse 25- the instrument cluster and GEM system- it dropped to about 40ma. Does that mean a bad GEM module? I'm not really sure where to go from here. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
No, the should be 200 ma.
You need too use a multi meter ( volt meter). And measure across each fuse on both fuse boxes (engine compartment and interior by driver side door).
? Do you have any non Factory install equipment?
 






No, the should be 200 ma.
You need too use a multi meter ( volt meter). And measure across each fuse on both fuse boxes (engine compartment and interior by driver side door).
? Do you have any non Factory install equipment?
The only thing aftermarket is the radio
 






The only thing aftermarket is the radio
Pull the fuse on it. And see if the draw changes.
The GEM module is a distribution point.
Accessories and options pass thru it. A soldier joint fails on them. The option does not work.
The fuses will tell you, what till working.
 






Pull the fuse on it. And see if the draw changes.
The GEM module is a distribution point.
Accessories and options pass thru it. A soldier joint fails on them. The option does not work.
The fuses will tell you, what till working.
I pulled all of the fuses on the side of the dash one by one. The only one that changed was the GEM #25 fuse
 






I pulled all of the fuses on the side of the dash one by one. The only one that changed was the GEM #25 fuse
What about the fuses in the engines compartment?
I would have too see what going thru you're GEM.
With that fuse pull.
Are the following out.
Interior lights
Dash lights
4x4 system
Drivers window
Security system
Rear washer
Seat belts
Door ajar
Wipers
Etc.
?
 






Gotcha. I'll check tomorrow
Thanks for your replies
 






Since fuse 25 also powers the instrument cluster, you might unplug the GEM and see if you still have excessive draw, and if so then I'd suspect the instrument cluster.

There are wiring diagrams linked below in my sig if that'd help.
 






Gotcha. I'll check tomorrow
Thanks for your replies
That 25 amp fuse is. For the battery power saver ? Inputs.
Section 419-10: Multi-Function Electronic Control Modules​
1997 Explorer, Mountaineer Workshop Manual​
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING

Symptom Chart — GEM​

SYMPTOM CHART
ConditionPossible SourceAction
  1. Cannot Communicate With the GEM
  1. Fuse(s).
  2. Circuit(s).
  3. Loose or damaged wires or connectors.
  4. Generic electronic module (GEM).
  1. GO to Pinpoint Test A.
PINPOINT TEST A: CANNOT COMMUNICATE WITH THE GEM
TEST CONDITIONSTEST DETAILS/RESULTS/ACTIONS
A1 VERIFY MODULE IS A GEM​
1. NOTE: Central Time Modules (CTMs) are used on two-wheel drive vehicles not equipped with power windows. Refer to CTM Diagnostics for vehicles equipped with CTM.
Verify vehicle equipment.​
  1. Is vehicle two-wheel drive, and not equipped with power windows?
YES
Vehicle equipped with a CTM, not a GEM. Refer to CTM Diagnostics for vehicles equipped with CTM.
NO
GO to A2.​
A2 CHECK MAXI FUSE 2 (60A)​

1.
IC0018.gif

Fuse 2 (60A)
  1. Is the fuse OK?
YES
GO to A3.
NO
REPLACE the fuse. CLEAR the DTCs. TEST the system for normal operation. If the fuse fails again CHECK circuit 1052 (T/BK) for a short to ground. REPAIR as necessary.​
A3 CHECK INSTRUMENT PANEL FUSE 25 (7.5A)​

1.
IC0018.gif

Fuse 25 (7.5A)
  1. Is the fuse OK?
YES
GO to A4.
NO
REPLACE the fuse. CLEAR the DTCs. TEST the system for normal operation. If the fuse fails again CHECK circuit 1001 (W/Y) for a short to ground. REPAIR as necessary.​
A4 CHECK CIRCUIT 1052 (T/BK) FOR VOLTAGE​

1.
GK4297A.gif

1. Measure the voltage between I/P fuse 25 (7.5A) pin 2 circuit 1052 (T/BK) and ground.​
  1. Is voltage greater than 10 volts?
YES
GO to A5.
NO
REPAIR circuit 1052 (T/BK). CLEAR the DTCs. TEST the system for normal operation.​
A5 CHECK THE VOLTAGE TO THE GEM — CIRCUIT 1001 (W/Y)​

1.
GK4296A.gif

1. Measure the voltage between GEM C283-5, circuit 1001 (W/Y), and ground, and between GEM C283-11, circuit 1001 (W/Y), and ground.​
  1. Are the voltages greater than 10 volts?
YES
GO to A6.
NO
REPAIR circuit 1001 (W/Y). CLEAR the DTCs. TEST the system for normal operation.​
A6 CHECK CIRCUIT 70 (LB/W) BETWEEN GEM C280 AND DATA LINK CONNECTOR (DLC) C285 FOR OPEN​

1.
GK4295A.gif

1. Measure the resistance between GEM C280-25 circuit 70 (LB/W) and DLC C285-7 circuit 70 (LB/W).​
  1. Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?
YES
GO to A7.
NO
REPAIR circuit 70 (LB/W). CLEAR the DTCs. TEST the system for normal operation.​
A7 CHECK CIRCUIT 570 (BK/W) FOR OPEN​

1.
GK4240A.gif

1. Measure the resistance between GEM C280-14 circuit 570 (BK/W) and ground, and between GEM C280-26 circuit 570 (BK/W) and ground.​
  1. Are the resistances less than 5 ohms?
YES
GO to A8.
NO
REPAIR circuit 570 (BK/W). CLEAR the DTCs. TEST the system for normal operation.​
A8 CHECK CIRCUIT 57 (BK) FOR OPEN​

1.
GK4294A.gif

1. Measure the resistance between GEM C283-18 circuit 57 (BK) and ground.​
  1. Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?
YES
REPLACE the GEM. CLEAR the DTCs. TEST the system for normal operation.
NO
REPAIR circuit 57 (BK). CLEAR the DTCs. TEST the system for normal operation.​
 






So I was working on it this morning. After reading more about it last night, I wasn't sure if I was measuring correctly, so I unhooked the battery, closed the latches and hooked up my meter and turned it on. I waited about an hour and it was down to 40 ma. Either connecting the meter woke things up or out of habit I may have pulled on the door handle to open the door even though it wasn't latched. For now I left the battery disconnected ( I charged it yesterday) and it's measuring 12.3v. I'll check later in the week to see what the voltage is, but I'm suspecting maybe a bad battery
 






Yes if you are using a meter in series to measure current from the battery, it will wake up the vehicle when the battery is first reconnected and then you have to wait the ~45 min. or whatever the timeout period is. One option is leave the battery connected till you have the multimeter leads hooked up, then remove the battery cable clamp from the battery terminal so you are never breaking the circuit.

12.3V is a bit low. If it drops much lower, especially when not even connected to drain it, then yes the battery is about shot.
 






Yes if you are using a meter in series to measure current from the battery, it will wake up the vehicle when the battery is first reconnected and then you have to wait the ~45 min. or whatever the timeout period is. One option is leave the battery connected till you have the multimeter leads hooked up, then remove the battery cable clamp from the battery terminal so you are never breaking the circuit.

12.3V is a bit low. If it drops much lower, especially when not even connected to drain it, then yes the battery is about shot.
Appreciate all your help
 






So I was working on it this morning. After reading more about it last night, I wasn't sure if I was measuring correctly, so I unhooked the battery, closed the latches and hooked up my meter and turned it on. I waited about an hour and it was down to 40 ma. Either connecting the meter woke things up or out of habit I may have pulled on the door handle to open the door even though it wasn't latched. For now I left the battery disconnected ( I charged it yesterday) and it's measuring 12.3v. I'll check later in the week to see what the voltage is, but I'm suspecting maybe a bad battery
The door handle has a switch in it that goes thru the GEM, too turn on interior light. The keyless entry is also illuminated.
Lately I also had experience with bad batteries.
I used too measure battery voltage, and go from there but now, that thinking does not work.
1. I had a battery that measure 12 v, but could not turn a starter, not even clicking. Battery tested bad at part house.
2. I had another that could not hold a charge.
3. Another battery that swelled from the heat. With a jumper pack I was able to start the car and drive it around. Tested the battery. It fail.
 












My battery voltage goes down too 10.3 v, and start the car.
I'll definitely have it tested before buying another one, but the battery may very well be the issue
 






I'll definitely have it tested before buying another one, but the battery may very well be the issue
IT does not cost anything too test it.
 






Solved: It was the battery. It's been 2 weeks and everything is good. Thanks for everyone's help
 






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